stuck '24 engine

W

woodrow

Senior Member
Been messin' with a '16 Model T that has a '24 engine. Couldn't turn the crank so removed the head and see the engine has original bore and no marks on top of the pistons. I have poured Marvel Mistry Oil through each cylinder and it now runs through into a pan on the floor. I have also removed the bottom plate of the engine. I have pulled on the crank, tried to lever the rods from below and used a 2 X 4 block to hammer the top of each piston but haven't been able to move them. Loosened one of the rod cap nuts but can't get the other one free on the middle main. The front and rear mains are difficult to reach and I am trying to avoid removing the engine. Sure would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
 
Have you ever had it running or did it come this way? Could something be going on in the transmission that would lock it up? It should move if the cylinder walls look good. Can you jack up the rear and get things to move with the wheel?
 
Not sure how to attack a "stuck valve" situation. They all seem clean on the top of the block. Would the "stuck" problem be at the cam? Thanks,
 
If the cam or lifters or valves are stuck and the pistons are not, you can usually move the crank the clearance of the crank and cam gears, not much but some noticeable movement.
If is the Pistons I have heated the out side of the block with a propane torch in the area of the cylinder bores. Use a mixture of 50 percent automatic transmission fluid and acetone
Down the cylinders a day or two ahead of time.
Smack the tops of the Pistons with a hammer and 2x4 not too hard but a good smack.
Jack up the rear end with one wheel off the ground and have the car in high gear. Have some one rock the wheel back and forth while your smacking the piston.
Also take off the valve side covers and spray tha atf acetone mixture around the lifters and valves. Spray some down around the valve heads also"

Something should give...
 
Already had the starter off and that wasn't the problem. Now, I'm just a novice but I removed the top plate off the ****** and loosened the nuts that hold the bands in place, levered the drum back and forth a time or two and it freed up the pistons. Guess it was the ****** and not the engine. I can now pull the crank a lot, the pistons now move up and down smoothly, along with the valves. Cylinder walls appear slick and the piston tops are unmarked and the bore is a standard 3 3/4". Sure do appreciate the good suggestions given here. Nice to know you're not alone when you undertake an old engine project. Thanks a lot---don't have a clue what I'm doin' but I'm havin' fun doin' it.
 
Thats Great. Take off the pan on the bottom of the oil pan and clean it out well before
you try and start it. Also you can take a squirt can of oil and lube every thing before
you start it also. It will also give you a chance to grab the rods and check to see if any
are loose. Side to side is normal up and down movement is not.
Keep having fun and asking questions.
Also when the pan is back on dump a quart of oil all over everything in the trans before
you start it.

Dodge
 
Good, I thought it was something in the trans but you never know. I saw on here the other day where someone figured out that the original oil would have been a thin 20SAE because of the transmission.
 
SAE 20 oil is about right when they were new and tight. The todays equivalent is probably 10-30 as it flows as a 10 wt when cold and provides the cushioning of 30Wt when hot and 20 wt at normal temps.
 
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