Strange Problem

bnchief

bnchief

Senior Member
I have had this car up and running, with old style points and condenser but the points line up so terrible i put new points in modern upper plate wireless bottom plate made sure bottom plate was not grounding out to distributor body also checked upper point plate to make sure it was not grounding out. Car ran perfectly, bill stipes distributor cam petronix 40,000 volt coil epoxy filled 12v neg ground. Shut the car off put engine pans on car would not start 12.4 volts at coil move point(yes they are opening) no spark checked points with ohm meter it appears that the points may be grounding out should i check this with the distributor wire un hooked from the coil? Was also thinking may have gotten a bad spot where the wire goes thru the armored cable. What is a good modern condenser to use in case i have a bad one we have napa and o'reillys here where i live.
 
The two pieces of metal that conduct electricity from the bottom plate to the top plate would be my first concern as they are problematic. Replace the connection with a good stranded wire like the original set up and can still use the modern top and bottom plate.
Condenser Echlin DC-1, FA82 for modern style
 
Although this may not be your problem right now, the first thing i would do is get rid of the wireless lower plate and go back to the wired... i have seen to many intermittent driveability and all out failures from those... the original style point alignment is adjustable..
your call:::
If your using the conventional style ignition switch make sure the terminals are not touching the fuel tank.

Short of this lets do a diagnosis....

You should have 12 v to the points moveable arm points open KOEO and nothing when they are closed as the points should ground the circuit. Try operating them with a screwrodger and ck for spark from the coil wire and spark at the points contacts when opening and closing...
 
I just used the search function to search "wireless top plate" and there are 4 full pages of threads dealing with the problems of the wireless top plate. Here's a link to one thread I started and it shows a picture of the problem I found. Notice the slanted part of the brass and how it looks like it's touching the top plate. I did neglect to take and post a picture of my fix, but I used my Dremel to grind clearance between the two parts.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32076&highlight=wireless+top+plate
 
Well Mitch i took the wire type plate out and put the wireless plate in thought that might be less problematic. I did check the continuity and made sure the new plate was not grounding out moved it back and forth everything seemed just fine I have twevle volts at the coil the points are opening .018 gap have not checked voltage at the points will do . Also thought i could have a spot in the old wire in the armored cable will check it seperately as well. Tom you may have a good point have not thought about that, but then I thought the wireless plate might just be better. Jr thanks for the condenser tip. By the way Mitch i am using a nurex 3 pole switch it is not touching the gas tank. I also have the terminals covered as well and earlier tip you gave see some of what you guys tell me has actually soaked in.
 
Do as others have suggested and do the diagnostic checks before replacing any more parts. I had a similar problem and finally found a thread here on checking the voltage at the points arm, open and closed. I had a bad switch that wasn't giving me proper voltage at the points, but was very sporadic with continuity. Also had a bad cable from the switch to the distributor with the wire touching the inside of the steel cable. All aftermarket stuff, some many years old.
 
Mitch i did that and no spark will check voltage however, have not messed with points in 30 years.
 
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