Steering column removal

Yes, it is a good idea and I need to do that anyway. I am having no luck finding the wood floorboards that are already precut and I also need the metal transmission cover. The metal in the bottom of the cab is rusty and needs treatment. Any recommendations - I hear and read about the "Por-15" items and thought I might try them. I am very anxious to get this key cylinder behind me so I can move to other things about the truck that I am better suited to deal with.
 
Randy1944 said:
Let me try to load a picture. If you will click on the picture it will enlarge big enough for a better answer to my solution. If it could be cleaned up enough and a new key cylinder inserted - that would be much better than the other solutions I have considered. Thanks
Click to expand...

Randy; I think you just need to finish the lock cylinder removal,
nothing more at this time.

Seems to me your picture shows the broken off inner end of the key lock cylinder. That's the locking end ---it's still engaged with the slot in the locking bolt. Hook, pic ,tap & wiggle that junk out. Jiggle steer wheel.
Looking down the lock cylinder hole W/O the lock you should see the
side of a 5/8" vertical steel rod with a square flat notch cut across it --the
offset bump on back of key lock raises & lowers lock rod via notch.
Raising the bolt with screwdriver unlocks the steer shaft--wiggle S wheel.

Still need to tap out the lock retaining pin and hook ,tap wiggle any
remaining lock cylinder wall out of drop bore.

Here's hopeing
Gene Tulsa
 
Thanks for the keen observation Gene. I will attempt to do as you say in the morning and I will report back tomorrow. When you have never worked on something such as this, help from experienced people makes all the difference. Thanks for the advice.
 
Hey Gene, I tried to pm you without success. I was able to remove the old cylinder from the column drop this morning. I cleaned out the hole and inserted the new key cylinder( I did not put the retaining pin in). It fit just right. The toggle switch would move before I got the old cylinder remains out and it still moves. I moved it while looking in the hole and I can see nothing move when I use the toggle switch. I then used a hammer to tap slightly at spots around the outside of the column drop. Still, the steering wheel will not move at all. I then sprayed Marvel Mystery fluid in the hole and down around the top of the toggle switch. I decided to wait on more advice and hopefully the fluid will help. I took pictures, but they turned out horribly. I will take more on Monday( I live about thirty miles from where I store my truck). Looking forward to more great advice.
Thanks Randy
 
Hi Randy,

Gene provided a great description of what you need to do.

When you got the lock mechanism out today, could you see the flat spot in the locking shaft? This needs to be pried up away form the steering column shaft to let this shaft clear the locking collar that is screwed to the steering shaft. If you were able to fully insert the new lock, you could also partially insert the pin that engages the lock and use the lock in a normal manner to raise the locking shaft.

I'm curious about your comment about being able to move the ignition lever toggle. If the locking pin shaft was engaged, locking the steering wheel, you should not be able to move the toggle either.

I just found this link for a 35-36 and has parts in a different orientation but is helpful to understand the mechanism.

http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/fileattachments/steercolumtakeapart.pdf
 
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Hey Glenn, Thanks for your help. I was really happy to get the old piece of cylinder out of the column drop today. It was really good to have something good happen. I don't know what to think about the toggle lever. Maybe the soaking fluid will help the situation. I will get good pictures on Monday. I am a little reluctant to try and force the steering wheel to turn or maybe what damage I might do if I pry and twist a screwdriver down the key cylinder hole. Could it be that the toggle lever is broke and is jamming up things down at the end of the key cylinder hole? Maybe the new pictures will reveal something to the trained eyes on this site.
Thanks
 
Hi Randy,

I can't explain it either. Let the soaking fluid do its job. I have good success with PB Blaster. If the key cylinder goes all the way in, I'd push the retaining pin enough to keep it from rotating but enough to pull it out with pliers too that way you don't have to be concerned about nicking the shaft up with the screwdriver or something.

I just put my 32 lock in a couple of weeks ago, sliding it down the steering column after I jury rigged up a way to hold the locking pin, and have done it before on my 40 so I've got a good idea of how they work now. I'll keep watching your posts.

Best regards,
Glenn
 
Okay, I'm back from taking pictures and I have been informed that I am terrible with a camera - by my wife. I put the cylinder in place(and held it with a big nail) and I can turn the key and now the toggle switch seems to be working. The toggle switch does not work by itself. When I turn the key a certain way - then I can flip the toggle switch. I still cannot budge the steering wheel. It will not give with a lot of pulling in either direction. It feels very solid. The picture is bad, but maybe someone can look and see if anything looks right. Thanks
 

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The " toggle switch " should be in the ON position before the steering wheel will move.
Roy Nacewicz sells the pre-cut wooden floorboards.
 
Hi Randy,

It appears that the ignition toggle is over to the driver's left which would be correct. The locking shaft "flat" may not be high enough to clear the locking collar on the steering shaft. When you had the key tumbler in, did it rotate all the way through 180°? Can you lift it a little higher with a flat blade screwdriver?
 
Hey Glenn, I tried to be very easy with the items today and was glad that finally the toggle switch did not just go back and forth in any condition. I sprayed PB Blaster down the entire insides of the cylinder hole and all down around the toggle, hoping that I might once again get a little improvement overnight. Are you suggesting that I should take a screwdriver and try to raise the "flat" down in the cylinder hole? I can sure do that tomorrow. Thank you for your suggestions-they all help me understand the situation a little better. PS I just called the Roy Nacewicz number and the man that answered, said that he does not make the floorboard/boards for the 39 pickup. I wish he did.
 
How's it going Randy?

On the floor board I just ended up cutting one out of 5/8" cabinet plywood. Made a template out of cardboard. It took a few tries to get the template right, cardboard is cheap though.
 
I still am not having any good luck with the steering wheel. I have not asked about the electrical fitting on the back of the column drop. What part does that setup play in starting the truck? Could it have any effect with unlocking the steering wheel? As you can tell, I am getting a little desperate. I think next I am going to attack the problem from down under. I plan to open up the steering sector box and have a look see. Wish me luck.
 
The electrical block has nothing to do directly with the steering column lock. The on-off switch on the column drop switches the ignition on-off at the block.

Power is supplied to the switch by a wire from the battery side of the fuse on the fuse panel. In the on position power is connected to two post. One post is wired to the ignition resistor (also located on the fuse panel) and then (through the resistor) to the coil. The second post is connected to the instrument panel gauges.
 

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Thank you for the electrical info. I guess at this point, I am just trying to eliminate possible issues. I have bought a used column drop and when I get it, I will better understand the different operations involved. I'm afraid that as a last resort(not there yet) I will have to remove the complete steering column from the truck and then go over it step by step before re-installing it. I appreciate everyone's help and advice. Be sure to let me know if you see something that I am missing.
 
There is a pin in the column drop that goes into a slot on the steering column, that is about all that can have the column locked up. The pin must not be all the way out of the slot. Use a good light and look and see if you can verify if the pin is all the way up or not. The column will not move until that pin is all the way up and clear of the column shaft. If that is not the issue then the box itself must be locked up somehow (which I doubt).
 
Glenn, Finally after much soaking and encouragement I got the pin loose and the steering wheel came loose. Just yesterday, I put my new key cylinder in to the column drop and today, I finished putting in the new wiring harness and found that something is wrong. With everything hooked up - nothing happens with the key on and the toggle switch on and I push the start switch. I have already hotwired it to test the engine and the truck runs great - except when I put all of the new wiring harness on it. Next week, I will tackle it all again and look for the problem. My first thought is whether the "coil resistor/circuit breaker" is working correctly. I used the old one and it may be bad.
We shall see.
Thanks
 
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OK, couple of things. First, there is no connection between the starter button and the ignition key. The starter button should turn the engine over ignition ON or OFF. Second point, the starter button is really nothing but a ground to the starter solenoid. So don't jump straight to the coil if it is not turning over.

Now, did you mean it was not turning over or not firing with it turning over?
 
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