Steering column removal

Randy1944

Randy1944

Senior Member
Now that my column drop is on the way, I would like to have help on removing steering column without doing much damage. First is how to remove horn button (I need it off so that I can install new horn wire). Will I need to remove steering wheel and then entire steering column and steering box? Maybe I can remove steering wheel and slide the column drop down over steering column? If needed, suggestions about pulling steering wheel, hopefully without damaging it.
Thanks
 
It's been years since I did it but don't recall having to remove steering box.
This is a breakdown of the components. -----
 

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The major problem is removing the tube that runs down the center of the column. This tube is attached to the light switch on the steering wheel. If you have to remove this tube the issue is clearance inside the vehicle (the tube bends very easily). You can remove a window or drop the steering box off of the frame, etc, to get the clearance required. The horn wire runs down the center of this tube, between the light control at the bottom of the steering box to the horn parts at the top of the column. There are several threads on here about the parts involved and how to take them apart.

In the diagram 34PKUP posted, 3616 is the light switch assemble and it is around 44 inches long. It is retained by 3643 (spider) and 3644 (retainer) at the bottom of the steering box. To get to them you need to remove the bail and cover.

You may be able to get to the parts you want on the top of column by just removing the horn button in the center of the lighting selector. But you will still need to remove the lighting switch parts at the bottom of the steering box to get to the other end.
 
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I really do need help removing the horn button and then the steering wheel. Helpful suggestions might save me from breaking both items.
 
It helps if you mention the year and body style so you get correct advice
If it is a closed car that has the light switch/ horn button it is on a long shaft , you should drop down the whole steering gear assembly , if it just has the horn button it is pretty much a push and turn and pull out the wire after disconnecting it at the bottom
 
Here's a picture of a 35/36 light switch attached to the end of the steering box. It must be removed to get access to the bottom of the light switch rod. There is a spider and clip and spring that holds the rod in place. Push the spider up against the spring and remove the clip. This will allow the rod to be removed up thru the steering shaft. A closed car will create some challenges with regard to clearances.
 

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Randy1944 said:
I really do need help removing the horn button and then the steering wheel. Helpful suggestions might save me from breaking both items.
Click to expand...

It may seem backwards but before you can remove horn button, you need to do as JSeery suggests. It starts at the bottom of the steering tube.
 
After going into your profile page, then clicking on your statistics, and finally clicking on threads you have started, it appears most likely that you are working on a '39 pick up. It does help if you would mention what you are working on at the start of a post with questions. It looks like the attachment that 34PKUP posted is what you need to review, or close enough.
I am posting the link below to another recent post that should answer most, if not all, of your questions rather than trying to repeat all of this again here on this thread....

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=181499

Another thread on removing steering wheel....

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48036&highlight=steering+wheel+removal
 
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I realize you have not yet asked, but since you are replacing the column drop, study up on removing the two bolts that hold the drop to the dash. They have break-off heads and install from the top. All you will have to work with, if original, is two round heads that you can't see and can barely grasp. I drilled up through the shanks from the bottom and then popped off the heads. Then I backed the headless shank out the bottom with an ez-out. It'd be worth asking if other guys have better ideas.
 
I do apologize that I did not tell more about my vehicle. It is a 1939 1/2 ton pickup that had the key cylinder drilled out in a fruitless effort to load it on a car hauler without a key. The key was laying on the drivers side running board all of the time. This truck came from Calif. and all the way to Tn. and just today I found the key laying on the running board. I already had one original key that the owner had mailed to me and when I compared them - they matched. Now SofaKing is making me somewhat nervous about replacing the column drop. Maybe I should consider if there is a way to insert a new cylinder and avoid a nasty operation. Any suggestions as to what is involved with installing a new key cylinder. Thanks for your help and I am sorry that I did not make my situation very clear.
 
If they haven't damaged the column drop internal ignition key cylinder housing, then it's only a matter of inserting a new lock cylinder ( preferably a NOS one ) and tapping in a new retaining pin. PN 68-3729.
 
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Randy- I didn't mean to make you nervous, it was meant as a forewarned is forearmed. Once I understood how it was put together they were out in 20-30 minutes. I had trouble because when I stuck my head up under the dash everything was so close I couldn't focus to see what it was. I used a lot of f-bombs before I figured out there is nothing to put a wrench on. That was after resorted to a mirror and flashlight so I could see 'em at arms length. Start soaking everything asap, make life easier. If anyone else has another way to remove them please post it for Randy.
 
Let me try to load a picture. If you will click on the picture it will enlarge big enough for a better answer to my solution. If it could be cleaned up enough and a new key cylinder inserted - that would be much better than the other solutions I have considered. Thanks
 

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I have ordered a new ignition lock cylinder and will try that solution. I just hope I can figure out what prep work I need to do to the drilled out hole so that new cylinder will fit and work properly.
 
SofaKing said:
Randy- I didn't mean to make you nervous, it was meant as a forewarned is forearmed. Once I understood how it was put together they were out in 20-30 minutes. I had trouble because when I stuck my head up under the dash everything was so close I couldn't focus to see what it was. I used a lot of f-bombs before I figured out there is nothing to put a wrench on. That was after resorted to a mirror and flashlight so I could see 'em at arms length. Start soaking everything asap, make life easier. If anyone else has another way to remove them please post it for Randy.
Click to expand...

SofaKing
I pulled the instrument cluster to access those bolts from the top and used vice grips to remove them. Your advice about "soaking" is well taken.

Randy
On the 40 steering column the horn button pops off by pressing down and twisting counterclockwise. That procedure may be different with the 39. Due to the limited room in the cab of the truck the whole steering column will have to be unbolted from the frame and either dropped or rotated. To facilitate that exercise I would recommend dropping the drag link. The second thread in JM's response shows how steering wheels are pulled. Some good advice there. Once the steering wheel is pulled the outer steering column tube can be slid off at which point you can remove the damaged column drop and install the new one. As I recall the woodruff key on the steering shaft has to be removed in order for the rubber bushing that centers the shaft to slide off with the outside tube. Take care to set aside that woodruff key - it is an unique Ford part. While the column is apart I recommend that you consider replacing the bushing with a bearing. Not being familiar with the 39 steering column I can't say what the best sequence is for this exercise. These are the steps I took to get the steering column out of my truck. One final thought - IMO the seller has done you a disservice and should make it right to fix their mistake.
Les Williams
 
Remove light switch on bottom of steering box. Remove spring and clip from the horn rod. Pull horn rod from column bending it as it comes out. They are pretty resilient and will take a good arc. Soak the steering wheel nut and remove. Tap the wheel with a 2 by or soft rubber mallet to release on the taper shaft. Save the woodruff key for reassembly. Now there is more room to remove(not drill) the 2 bolts under the dash holding up the column drop. Loosen the 3 bolts holding the steering box to the frame and using a puller release the pitman arm. Now the box will rotate down toward the seat away from the dash enough to cut the old drop off with a die grinder in a few spots since it is locked up. Then you can install the new drop. A replacement drop will probably be the best solution. Try Baxter Ford or others.
 
If you have the column loose, why would you cut the column drop?? There are 2 5/16 fine thread bolts that hold the drop to the dash. I can think of no reason for a break away bolt head. There is a breakaway bolt that holds the column drop to the column, but not to the dash. DO NOT bend the horn rod that goes inside the steering shaft!!! They are hard to come by and nearly impossible to straighten. The reason to unbolt the steering box is to gain clearance in the cab to remove the horn rod. Sedans and open cars have plenty of room to remove the rod. After the steering wheel is removed, then you can remove the column sleeve. The column drop has to come off the sleeve at the bottom as the top is bell shaped. Do not cut that column drop, they are tough to cut and specific drops can be hard to come by.
 
Randy1944 said:
Let me try to load a picture. If you will click on the picture it will enlarge big enough for a better answer to my solution. If it could be cleaned up enough and a new key cylinder inserted - that would be much better than the other solutions I have considered. Thanks
Click to expand...

Randy; The lock cylinder is pinned in place by a 1/8"steel pin pressed in
from the back of the drop -- i think you can see the inner end - the "dot"
inside the drilled out cylinder back wall. Should be able to punch that out
to the inside. That should release any remaining uncut lock cylinder wall.
Then your replacement lock cylinder should fit in the bore. Stop --don't
try install -- yet..
Step 2 check if the internal locking assembly is operable.
Does the toggle switch move freely? Don't force.
Does steering wheel turn? Don't force --jiggle.

See where this goes --wish you luck!

Gene Tulsa
 
Thanks to all for the information. This is all a very strange situation. Gene, thanks for the detailed info. I will follow up when I work on it in the morning. As I said before, a big problem I have is being so big myself and working up under the dash is hard to deal with. Anyway, I may just take the two instruments out, so at least I might have a new angle to work from. Thanks again for the advice and now I will put it to work.
 
If you need to anyway, you might consider removing the front seat to give yourself a lot more room under there. Would then be a good time to refurbish the floor pans.
 
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