Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
I would like to buy the new mount for 30. Please I need a place to buy one Thank you all Don In Indiana!
Don, most of the vendors carry them. I've also seen them on epay.
Steering Column Mount Conversion, Early to Late
- Thread starter Tomy Turbos
- Start date
Don, most of the vendors carry them. I've also seen them on epay.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Here's a link to one at Bert's... http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3279
Use your lower clamp.
I used my old column bracket to mount my water temperature gauge to.
Use your lower clamp.
I used my old column bracket to mount my water temperature gauge to.
Last edited:
Tomy Turbos
Member
That is good to know, since this car is a '29 drop-top.
Tomy Turbos
Member
I would like to buy the new mount for 30. Please I need a place to buy one Thank you all Don In Indiana!
I just ordered from Brattons, PN 04860 and 04880 (along with a number of other items needed for the Car.)
Tomy Turbos
Member
Here's a link to one at Bert's... http://parts.modelastore.com/show_Product.asp?ID=3279
Use your lower clamp.
I used my old column bracket to mount my water temperature gauge to.
Clever!
Tomy Turbos
Member
OK. Here's an update/progress report:
1. Tank is removed.
2. Overall its condition is good and a chemical cleaning and sealing should suffice to keep it in service for another 85 years or so.
3. The problem with the gauge which I mentioned earlier appears to be an unconventional 'fix' for a bad or missing lens. Evidence suggests that someone tried to cast a new lens out of clear acrylic but neglected to remove the float rod first. This resulted in the assembly becoming a fixed unit when it needed to be a moving part. The cork float fell to bits when I looked at it the wrong way (no surprise here!) Rebuild kit for that is in the mail.
4. I used a red Roloc on my die grinder to clean up the area of the original mount. What I previously said appeared to be brazing was really discoloration from the fuel seepage. Now that I have cleaned down to bare metal I can see that the original solder remains.
5. Here's where I'm still flipping a coin on how to proceed:
a. I need to minimize any paint work to the greatest extent possible. This is mostly for budgetary reasons but is confounded by the faux wood painting on the dashboard side of the tank. If I DON'T use heat, I can simply touch up the affected area. If I DO... Well, we all know where this can go.
b. The original symptom is what I would call a 'weep' rather than an outright leak. Same concept as a drizzle vs. a downpour; both are technically rain but the level of severity makes a significant difference in how they are dealt with. Still, it needs to not leak at all.
c. In that the leak is not a hemorrhage, I don't suspect that there is any significant tearing or cracking of the sheet metal. What I suspect is that it is fatigue at the rivets themselves which is the actual cause. Unfortunately I have not contrived a method of verifying this without either going full-bore and removing the Bracket or filling the tank and watching for who knows how long. This is not the type of leak that pressure testing will easily reveal.
d. My options seem to be as follows:
1. Do the tank sealing internally and add a prayer that it works.
2. Remove and Reinstall the Bracket with any necessary consequences that come down the pike -- which includes paint work.
3. 'resolder' the joint without removal (with additional prayers that I don't kill paint in the process).
4. Use the 'Magic Putty' that came with the Bill Hirsch Kit around all of the places it 'might' leak. This is problematic since I don't know the precise point of the leak. In this case, the prayers go without saying.
5. Some combination of the above.
So, while I'm waiting for parts and waiting for the cleaner and etch to dry, I'm still waiting for more input from guys who have already been down this road.
1. Tank is removed.
2. Overall its condition is good and a chemical cleaning and sealing should suffice to keep it in service for another 85 years or so.
3. The problem with the gauge which I mentioned earlier appears to be an unconventional 'fix' for a bad or missing lens. Evidence suggests that someone tried to cast a new lens out of clear acrylic but neglected to remove the float rod first. This resulted in the assembly becoming a fixed unit when it needed to be a moving part. The cork float fell to bits when I looked at it the wrong way (no surprise here!) Rebuild kit for that is in the mail.
4. I used a red Roloc on my die grinder to clean up the area of the original mount. What I previously said appeared to be brazing was really discoloration from the fuel seepage. Now that I have cleaned down to bare metal I can see that the original solder remains.
5. Here's where I'm still flipping a coin on how to proceed:
a. I need to minimize any paint work to the greatest extent possible. This is mostly for budgetary reasons but is confounded by the faux wood painting on the dashboard side of the tank. If I DON'T use heat, I can simply touch up the affected area. If I DO... Well, we all know where this can go.
b. The original symptom is what I would call a 'weep' rather than an outright leak. Same concept as a drizzle vs. a downpour; both are technically rain but the level of severity makes a significant difference in how they are dealt with. Still, it needs to not leak at all.
c. In that the leak is not a hemorrhage, I don't suspect that there is any significant tearing or cracking of the sheet metal. What I suspect is that it is fatigue at the rivets themselves which is the actual cause. Unfortunately I have not contrived a method of verifying this without either going full-bore and removing the Bracket or filling the tank and watching for who knows how long. This is not the type of leak that pressure testing will easily reveal.
d. My options seem to be as follows:
1. Do the tank sealing internally and add a prayer that it works.
2. Remove and Reinstall the Bracket with any necessary consequences that come down the pike -- which includes paint work.
3. 'resolder' the joint without removal (with additional prayers that I don't kill paint in the process).
4. Use the 'Magic Putty' that came with the Bill Hirsch Kit around all of the places it 'might' leak. This is problematic since I don't know the precise point of the leak. In this case, the prayers go without saying.
5. Some combination of the above.
So, while I'm waiting for parts and waiting for the cleaner and etch to dry, I'm still waiting for more input from guys who have already been down this road.
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
The original clamp was riveted to the tank and the solder was used to seal the joint. If yours is leaking the rivets are loose. They do not have to be loose enough to feel them move to leak fuel. If you reseal the joint with solder the leak will happen again. A lot of people relocate the mount one way or another as the '31's were. The tank mount no longer holds the column in place. You can reuse the clamp without the gasket so the column looks like it is being held in place.
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
I used the Bill Hirsch Kit on my huckster tank which had a hole on the side that the radiator place seemed to never get fixed. It worked great to patch up any remaining holes in my tank.
Also I put the bracket in to hold the steering column in both my 29's. Be sure you get the correct length bracket. If I remember correctly one is a 1/4 inch or so longer than the other and you have to "adjust" it to fit. I also just put the original bracket back on and left the rubber thing out. Good luck.
Also I put the bracket in to hold the steering column in both my 29's. Be sure you get the correct length bracket. If I remember correctly one is a 1/4 inch or so longer than the other and you have to "adjust" it to fit. I also just put the original bracket back on and left the rubber thing out. Good luck.
updraught
Well-known member
I've also got a tank with a slow leak on the side. Looking at the photos of a tank cut open it looks like there are small pockets on the lower sides of the tanks and these trap rust? Might be better to soak the tank in rust remover than use a radiator shop? Then use a tank sealer.
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
That is exactly what I did on the huckster. I found the radiator shop, or at least the one I used, did not do the job I needed. So I cleaned it out as best I could and then put in the sealer. So far after 5 to 6 years, things are doing OK even using crap gas most of the time..
BTW, have a understanding wife working in her kitchen.
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Tomy Turbos
Member
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
You had better believe it! After 50 years or so not much else to do.
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
Warning-may not work in all situations!