steering column motometer

web43

New member
Bought this on e-bay, it has a bolt with it that replaces one of the headbolts on the engine I assume. Am I correct and does it matter which headbolt you change out??
Thanks
 
Never heard of one that uses a head bolt. Are you sure it isn't the usual type that threads into the radiator neck? A picture would help.

Here is the type that mounts to the neck:
 

Attachments

  • gauge.jpg
    gauge.jpg
    12.4 KB · Views: 73
Last edited:
A picture would help, but I agree with Sparky - changing out a head bolt, which is a graded fastener for a reason, with something hollow that you can't torque sounds like a bad idea.
 
There were "Motometer" branded dash / column mounted gauges that replaced one of the cylinder head studs with a special bold that contained the sensor bulb.

Suggest you test the operation of your gauge with a pan of hot water before pulling studs out of the engine.
 
Last edited:
I have one of this type Motometer. The special bolt is installed in position #10 on the head. The sensor area of the bolt is above the torque area therefore can be torqued normally. Presently not installed. When installed it worked fine. No problems.
 
Re: steering column motometer Do you have to drill into the water jacket?....NO.

Actually only the nut (#10 location) is replaced.
The kit comes with a Accessory Nut that replaces the original nut.
The Accessory Nut is approximately 3 or 3 1/2 inches tall.
It is drilled in the center to accommodate the sensor bulb.
The top of the Accessory Nut is threaded to accept the bulb retaining nut.
It is made from 11/16 or 3/4 inch hex stock.
Sorry, cant' put my hands on it right now for a picture.
 
I hooked my onto #8 because it is already a longer stud that holds the distributor cable.
Its to hard to change out the distributor with the clamp and remove it to make for a easier distributor repairs. This way you don't have to change anything or loosen a torque head nut.
 
I used one of those for years. The head bolt was starting to get "thin" from rust etc. so when I went to a high compression head several years ago I changed to a modern gauge and used the goose neck location to install the probe. Works very well.
 
With the normal bulb type, Chief always drilled & tapped in the side of the head, near the rear. He thought that was probably the hottest area, since many cars used that position. With a head off, you can easily spot a proper position.
Bill W.
 
I have a brass plug in the rear of the head, I thought that's what it might be for.
I have a quail and would like a gauge. Thanks Bill W.
 
With the normal bulb type, Chief always drilled & tapped in the side of the head, near the rear. He thought that was probably the hottest area, since many cars used that position. With a head off, you can easily spot a proper position.
Bill W.

I like that idea, thanks Bill
 
Here is a copy of the original instructions. I have one, went to a machine shop and had them make a new stud copying the info from an original. There is one for sale in the Swap Meet right now.
 

Attachments

  • aredball.jpg
    aredball.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 102
Anyone have the dimensions for a good spot on the side of the head to drill and tap to install a gauge fitting?
 
I also acquired off of eBay a special Moto-Meter "Red Ball", steering column mount, temperature guage. Made specifically for the Model-A
Ford. Today I opened the box and to my surprise it came with the original
instruction sheet and two mounting pieces. The seller did not know if it worked and probably found it at an estate sale or from a deceased relative. The first two pics are of the instruction sheet, then the gauge and its attachment accessories and finally the gauge face.:)

Bob-A
 

Attachments

  • Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 001.jpg
    Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 001.jpg
    59.9 KB · Views: 55
  • Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 006.jpg
    Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 006.jpg
    58.5 KB · Views: 46
  • Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 008.jpg
    Red Ball Model-A Moto-Meter 008.jpg
    34 KB · Views: 69
  • image1.JPG
    image1.JPG
    103.9 KB · Views: 50
Bob A...a good buy, stick the bulb end in some hot water, see if it moves. If it doesn't then Ron at Williamson's Instruments down in Arkansas can probably repair it.
 
Back
Top