Steering box update

TerryNJ

Well-known member
Being unsatisfied with job I had done, I bit the bullet and started all over again. Only now I took some measurements. The original worm's spline had a coarser tooth. The new ones from Argentina had a finer tooth. The shaft, miked across the grooves was .865 (old shaft) with the new grooves it was .864. There may be an error in my measurements. Anyway, this time I filed the shaft where the teeth made an impression for the length of the splined section. Next I tapped it as Mitch had done and with a torch, vice, clamped to beat hell, and a BF wrench and a pipe wrench, I drew it up as Mitch and Steve B. said. Just about getting it on all the way, I discovered the the body of the steering column (Outer shell) was an 1" too short. So my column is 38 1/2" long and the old one that came with the car is 37 1/2" long. What's that about? Roadster? Pickup? I worked the play out of it down to maybe 1/2". It's done and tomorrow it goes back in.
Terry
 
Last edited:
After much fitutzun' around with the steering box, I got it back into the car and it works beautifully. I read here that a model A was a delight to drive when everything was working properly. I won't call it a delight yet, but it's more of a delight than before. In fact, it's nicer than it's ever been. I went for a shortened Pitman arm which may have helped some. Thanks for all your suggestions!
Terry
 
Hi,

I have a lot of play at the 7 thooth sector/bushing.

The pit arm and pit arm nuts are tight.

When I move the wheel by hand to the right und left the sector in the shaft moves 2-3 mm (0,125 inches) appr.

What to do? Would it be enough to change the sector bushing? And if, would I have to disassemble the whole box?

Stefan
 
I just helped a man, who has a black restored 28 Coupe, restored by his father-in-law some 20 years ago, rebuild his 7 tooth sector Steering Gear. The worm gear would move up and down when moving the shaft either way. Found someone had rebuilt the Steering Gear in the past, turned end of shaft, installed new fitted bushing, but machined upper end of bushing to, I guess, avoid using shims ? , had installed new thrust bearings and reassembled. I fitted a large washer on the upper end of the bushing between the bushing and thrust washer, reassembled and added correct amount of brass shims at the bottom. No more up and down movement and smooth through out left and right turning.
I suggested the man consider purchasing a new short Pitman Arm which will help to ease up the steering.
You never know what you are going to find on some of the older restorations.

Ron
 
I removes the steering column, disassembled it as far as I could, but

I do not know how to remove the steering wheel and the steering worm gear from the column???

Stefan
 

Attachments

  • WP_20140921_027.jpg
    WP_20140921_027.jpg
    177.3 KB · Views: 31
...does that mean I do not have to remove the steering wheel?

do I have to pull the worm gear out from the bottom of the column?
 
yes the worm comes off the bottom of the shaft
the steering wheel is a press fit. remove the wheel and if it is on there real tight the jobbers sell a removal tool. i have also had good luck loosening the nut and hitting it with a rubber mallet while pulling upwards on the wheel.. don't remove the nut all the way so you don't get hit in the face when the wheel cuts loose
 
The Diablo A's website has a great selection of "how to" videos. One of them is on rebuilding the steering. Well worth the money.
 
Back
Top