Starter help

bmwillia

bmwillia

Senior Member
Ok...

I have minimal wiring. Neg Battery to Solenoid, Starter cable to other side of solenoid. Wire from battery side of solenoid to resistor then resistor to coil.


My problem is that the starter will turn the motor when the plugs are not in but when I put the plugs in the engine will not turn over.

I have good voltage(6 volts) to the starter and a good ground.

Any ideas?

Do I need to rebuild/replace the starter?

Thanks,

Brad
 
Do you hear the solenoid engaging (a click) when the plugs are in? If so, battery is probably weak and unable to deliver enough cranking amps. Also try cleaning all connections, especially battery terminals with wire brushes.

Jack E/NJ
 
Either you have a weak battery, which is only strong enough to turn over the engine or a weak starter, maybe under size cable since you didn't state the condition or size.
 
Direct connect just the starter with a good battery and plugs in. Eliminate the starter and engine.
 
New plugs - Champion D21

New battery, bought a few weeks ago, and fresh off of the charger

Cable is in good condition looks like it is #2 or bigger.

Solenoid clicks and the starter engages but will not turn the motor. Pulleys budge a little and stop.

The only connections I have not cleaned are the starter connections they look good though. I do not see any corrosion or dirt there. I will try to clean them tomorrow.


Thanks for the help guys.
 
Direct from battery to starter. Jump it as suggested.

Clean the starter cable also. Starter grounds to engine. Sometimes a slow starter could be debri between start face and engine. Has happened to me anyway. Clean it free of paint and grease.

Run a frame or body to engine ground also. Never hurts to have more grounds.
 
Last edited:
Check the voltage at the battery and at the starter during cranking. Feel the battery post is it warm or hot. Do you have a battery disconnect on the battery. Some times they are bad.
 
Bill,

The battery cables do get warm. Particularly the positive side(ground).

No battery disconnect.

Thanks,

Brad
 
Cables will get warm if your cranking the starter for long periods of time, if they are undersized, or there is a poor connection.
 
Thanks Tinker!

I am going to clean all of the connections this weekend and run a frame to engine ground.


Can you tell me a good way to run the frame to engine ground? Wire guage? Connection location on the engine?

Thanks!
 
the cables need to be 2/0 or bigger, for 6 volts. the lower the voltage the higher the amprege, there is mor restance with 6 volts
 
I would bench test the starter as mentioned and see how fast it motors. It may need cleaned internally or the brushes replaced.
 
As Brendan said 2/0 or bigger.

I like to use welding cable and put ends on it. 2/0. More strands better flow. However it maybe over kill.
welding.jpg


I have grounded to the firewall or frame (find an existing hole) to a head nut. Would like to hear what others have done too.

I'd jump it or bench test, before investing in a bunch of new cable. Although the investment of welding cable for battery connections has been rock solid for me.
 
Do you need a resistor on a 6 Volt system ? Try to turn the engine by hand / socket and breaker bar with the plugs in. Disconnect 6 Volt wire to the starter and jump the starter with a 12 Volts. JMO.
 
Last edited:
Tinker said:
As Brendan said 2/0 or bigger.

I like to use welding cable and put ends on it. 2/0. More strands better flow. However it maybe over kill.
welding.jpg


I have grounded to the firewall or frame (find an existing hole) to a head nut. Would like to hear what others have done too.

I'd jump it or bench test, before investing in a bunch of new cable. Although the investment of welding cable for battery connections has been rock solid for me.
Click to expand...


that is good stuff to use, the atoms actually flow around the strands of wire, not through it. the heat that you feel is the friction of those little buggers flowing around the wire!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top