Spring removal and Columbia installation

SoCalCoupe said:
Anyone know what torque I should use to bolt the ring gear to the Columbia differential case? The bolts are 3/8"-16 and heads have no marking except for the letter "M". The typical torque spec for a Grade A bolt with these threads is 10 ft-lbs. Seems awfully light but maybe that makes sense since they're also secured with lockwire.
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Any bolt head that has a manufacturer's mark and nothing else is a grade 2 bolt. For 3/8-16 the torque for grade 2 is 20 ft-lbs.


Glenn
 

Attachments

danliveshere said:
You can also get onto John at Columbia 2speed. I’m not sure where you purchased your Columbia axle but John is the go-to guy for all your new Columbia parts etc.
https://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/
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Of course. Should have gone there first. Always feel a little awkward taking a businessman's time getting free advice. He's a very valuable resource to the community.



BTW, the answer is, "35 ft-lb on the A-31 attaching screws (ring gear) and 15/20 ft lbs on the A-18 differential outer case attaching screws (A-17)."
 
On and off with the rear end housings a few times checking shims, I've now wired the bolts on the ring gear bolts, RTV'd gaskets on the housings, torqued everything and declared that part done. Now on the downhill side of the mountain. Next step is reinstalling the backing plates, hubs and wheels, bleeding the brakes, refilling the differential and running in the lube to the Columbia. Then I'll actually be able to drive the car for the first time since March.



Decided to buy a pair of lock-wire pliers. Wouldn't ever attempt that job again without them, makes it so easy.


Haven't installed the Columbia controls yet. Just want to get the car back on the road and driveable first.
 
Here I am, 10 months later. Have the rear end with the Columbia reassembled. Just like the instructions, put it up on blocks and ran it for five minutes and rechecked the fluid level. I'm certain I got the hubs all the way on and am not riding on the axle keys. Torqued once, to 200 ft-lb, took a two mile drive and torqued again last weekend. Took an 8 mile drive yesterday and will re-torque before I drive again.


Cleaned up the garage today and just began installing the controls so haven't been able to shift it yet. At least now I know my widow won't have to try to sell an un-drivable car stuck in her garage.
 
Glad to hear progress is being made. I have gotten to drive three Columbia equipped vehicles after helping repair them and there is no substitute. I will have a Columbia in my 38 Ford coupe one of these years. Please report back once you have installed the controls and made your first high speed run in overdrive, I expect you will have a big smile.
 
Completed the installation yesterday; took it for a test drive this morning. It didn't go well. Cruised down the road in standard gear, pushed in the clutch, pulled out the knob and the axle shifted into overdrive without a sound. But, when I pushed in the clutch and pushed in the knob, it didn't shift back into standard. No noise, it just didn't shift. The vacuum canister worked when I tested it before installation. Tried reverse from a dead stop, that didn't work either. Had to either start out in OD or call a tow truck. Maybe not a good idea, but I started out in OD. No complaints or noise from the rear end, just like starting out in second. The Columbia has been bulletproofed.


Also the speedometer doesn't work at all now, noticed that when I first stared driving down the street. Put the car back in the garage and called it day. I'll think on this a while before I do anything and work on my taxes today instead.
 
That stinks.

Since you have a 1937 - 1941, are you using the original vacuum control switch? If so, is it adjusted as below?

VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Adjust clevis in valve operating rod (D) shown in Diagram, so that lever (J) depresses plunger valve at least 1/8 of on inch, but not to exceed 1/4 of on inch when clutch pedal is depressed to floor.

Glenn
 
glennpm said:
That stinks.

Since you have a 1937 - 1941, are you using the original vacuum control switch? If so, is it adjusted as below?

VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Adjust clevis in valve operating rod (D) shown in Diagram, so that lever (J) depresses plunger valve at least 1/8 of on inch, but not to exceed 1/4 of on inch when clutch pedal is depressed to floor.

Glenn
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I used a different spec given to me my John Connelly. With the clutch all the way the floor there's between 1/16" and 3/32" clearance between the depressed valve button and the lever which logically should work. It does sound like a vacuum control system issue though. I suppose I can just disconnect the hoses at the vacuum canister and test to see if the vacuum's going to the right place at the right time. If it is, I'll pull the vacuum canister and test it, with the control system, off the car.
 
SoCalCoupe said:
I used a different spec given to me my John Connelly. With the clutch all the way the floor there's between 1/16" and 3/32" clearance between the depressed valve button and the lever which logically should work. It does sound like a vacuum control system issue though. I suppose I can just disconnect the hoses at the vacuum canister and test to see if the vacuum's going to the right place at the right time. If it is, I'll pull the vacuum canister and test it, with the control system, off the car.
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Yes, I have mine set flush or slightly up from the stroke I show here.

561840


Good idea on pulling the hoses. I think you should be able to fix this on the car unless the vacuum cylinder needs a new plunger seal.

Glenn
 
Woohoo!!! Checked everything over and everything looked correct. Put the car up on jacks, started it up and was able to shift from high to low and back. Shifts on jacks but not on the road. That led me to think there was too much 'pressure' on the assembly and the clutch might not be disengaging soon enough to make it happy. Reread the Columbia instructions again and it said "readjust .....engine clutch if necessary." That was the trick. I adjusted the clutch clevis 1/2 turn to disengage sooner. Road test was perfect. Shifted to high and low and back a few times with no trouble at all. It shifted with such a quiet 'thunk' that I had to listen carefully to hear it.


Speedometer's another story. The spinner inside the cable sheared off right at the speedometer. I'll buy a new one from John Connelly and see if it works better.
 
SoCalCoupe said:
Woohoo!!!

Speedometer's another story. The spinner inside the cable sheared off right at the speedometer. I'll buy a new one from John Connelly and see if it works better.
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Fantastic!

Are you talking about the inner speedometer cable? For those you can get universal replacements that are trimmable to length.

Glenn
 
Got a new speedometer cable from John Connelly and attached it correctly to the changer; life is good.


Been up and down the blue shield highways here in San Diego a few times over the past 3 months. You really can't get anywhere without using them. The Columbia has performed flawlessly, much to my surprise. When I shift it's only a quite ker-click (up or down) and I have to listen hard to engine rpms to convince myself it's really shifted. It does. I expect it to blow up every time, but nothing's happened yet.
 
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I have a mickey mouse spring spreader my dad made for restoring Model A's, but I've never used it. I just clamp the spring with a good quality C clamp and take it apart. Then I can easily stretch the main leaf on the perches. Then stack the leaves back up and use the C-clamp to clamp them down and put the center bolt back in. It's prety simple and fast.
 
Flathead Fever said:
I just clamp the spring with a good quality C clamp and take it apart. Then I can easily stretch the main leaf on the perches. Then stack the leaves back up and use the C-clamp to clamp them down and put the center bolt back in. It's prety simple and fast.
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For anyone thinking of doing it this way, wrap a length of chain or heavy rope around the spring leaves in case the clamp slips and the leaves explode toward you and your head.
 
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