Spring removal and Columbia installation

SoCalCoupe

SoCalCoupe

Well-known member
Decided to start installation of my Columbia today and have the 1941 installation instructions. Haven't even gone to the garage yet because I'm stuck on the first sentence, "Disassemble Ford axle as shown in illustration No. 1."


How do I safely unbolt the spring from the shackles? From what I've read, the spring is under tension and if I remove one of the shackle bolts it will snap to the other side and maybe down. Should I use a spring spreader? Seems like I will need a spring spreader to reinstall it.


Help.
 
In my 40, after overthinking and over worrying I just clamped it together with two large c clamps. Then remove bolt. Then slowly release c clamps. In my 40, there was probably only 2-3” of “spring” tension released upwards when it was all done.
 
deuce lover said:
Yes spring spreader.Porta Power can be adapted also
Click to expand...

I'm with you Deuce.
C-clamps? Yeah, they work until one lets go and a guy gets injured or worse.

Keep the spring installed to the frame. Remove it from the axle housing.
 
deuce lover said:
Yes spring spreader.Porta Power can be adapted also
Click to expand...


I'm a tool junkie. Would love to be the proud owner of a multi-purpose Porta-Power rather than a single use Ford spring spreader. I see this on Amazon. Seems like a couple of the tips there would work but obviously I don't want the whole thing to snap back in my face. Of course, the hose is long enough I wouldn't have to get too close.



Thoughts?
 
Necessity is the mother of invention. If you have a floor jack, a couple of jackstands, and the power of reason, the task becomes easy peasy.
 
Borrowed a spring spreader and got started.


Took a last drive and topped off the tank with fresh gas.


Jacked up the driver's side of the car and removed the rear wheel and hub. Removed the four bolts from the backing plan and quit for the day when I realized I'll have to disconnect the brake line. Didn't want to get into that but there's no choice. Trying to figure out how to seal up the brake line and wheel cylinder when I disconnect them. Any thoughts?
Don't know what kind of brake fluid is in the car. Any thoughts on to identify it? What should I put back in?
 
Get the complete rear end off the ground, stands under the side frame rails. Put a Columbia under my 33 last month.
 

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SoCalCoupe said:
Borrowed a spring spreader and got started.


Took a last drive and topped off the tank with fresh gas.


Jacked up the driver's side of the car and removed the rear wheel and hub. Removed the four bolts from the backing plan and quit for the day when I realized I'll have to disconnect the brake line. Didn't want to get into that but there's no choice. Trying to figure out how to seal up the brake line and wheel cylinder when I disconnect them. Any thoughts?
Don't know what kind of brake fluid is in the car. Any thoughts on to identify it? What should I put back in?
Click to expand...

It’s easier to remove the whole rear axle with torque tube as a unit then replace it with the Columbia unit. To identify the brake fluid , put some water in a cup then put a little brake fluid in it . Dot 3 will cloud up the water. Dot 5 silicone will bead up into little bb’s
 
dean333 said:
Get the complete rear end off the ground, stands under the side frame rails. Put a Columbia under my 33 last month.
Click to expand...


Sounds good. That's the plan. Felt more comfortable with one wheel on the ground first time pulling a hub. I like "belt and suspenders" with jack stands (two each side.) Being under the car supported by jack stands gives me the heebees. I have another pair somewhere but if I can't find them I'll go to Harbor Freight and buy a 2nd pair.



Ken/Alabama said:
It’s easier to remove the whole rear axle with torque tube as a unit then replace it with the Columbia unit. To identify the brake fluid , put some water in a cup then put a little brake fluid in it . Dot 3 will cloud up the water. Dot 5 silicone will bead up into little bb’s
Click to expand...


Sounds like a good idea but my garage is too small to remove the axle as a unit. Thanks for the tip on the brake fluid.
 
The 33/34 Columbia instructions say not to remove the torque tube. Oh contrare, we pulled the whole assembly with the tube and put it on a makeshift workbench to build the Columbia.
 
SoCal,
Unless I am restoring a car, I install the Columbia pretty much as outlined in their instructions. That is, I remove only the left axle housing.
Installing one of these units is rather easy.
Harbor Freight jack stands? Not certain what they offer but DO buy the best you can afford. None of those cheap metal units.
 
Kube said:
SoCal,
Unless I am restoring a car, I install the Columbia pretty much as outlined in their instructions. That is, I remove only the left axle housing.
Installing one of these units is rather easy.
Harbor Freight jack stands? Not certain what they offer but DO buy the best you can afford. None of those cheap metal units.
Click to expand...


Kube, Thanks. I can afford the best jack stands; not sure what those might be, so much cr@p made in Ch!n@. Not a Harbor Freight fan at all. Just don't know where else to go for jack stands. Pretty simple product. But, willing to pay for the best to avoid having the car fall on my face.


Yes, Columbia conversion seems pretty easy all things considered. Really enthusiastic about this project.
 
SoCalCoupe said:
Kube, Thanks. I can afford the best jack stands; not sure what those might be, so much cr@p made in Ch!n@. Not a Harbor Freight fan at all. Just don't know where else to go for jack stands. Pretty simple product. But, willing to pay for the best to avoid having the car fall on my face.


Yes, Columbia conversion seems pretty easy all things considered. Really enthusiastic about this project.
Click to expand...

Gosh, I'm not certain where to get high quality stands these days. Used to be WALKER brand were the best. They no longer exist.
NAPA sold Walker under their own brand name.
Craftsman used to sell good quality as well.
 
Kube, I’m sure you meant removing the RIGHT axle housing.

I don’t know what you consider “easy”, especially if it’s up on jack stands. Adjusting the gear mesh pattern is an all day job….taking it apart at least three times to get the proper shim thickness. I can’t imagine doing that on your back as well as everything else. Everyone I’ve talked to says it’s an eight hour process.
 
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