Soldering Question

[jkcrosson]

While working on my turn signal, I am needing to solder some wires together. I'm using a non Lead electrical solder but its not sticking to the wires. Should I be using flux other than whats in the center of the solder?

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Are you getting the wires hot enough?

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've never had good luck with the leadfree solder, either in plumbing or electrical. When I tried the plumbing I had the correct flux that came with the solder, but I gave up and found some good old solder. I think it's rediculous to worry about lead in solder for electrical, and EPA will probably drive another good product out of business. Good 60/40 solder has already tripled in price in the past few years.

 

[jkcrosson]

I was wrong. I went back and looked at my solder. It's 60/40 lead. Do I need to use an additional flux. Sorry for the original confusion.

 

[jmeckel]

You should be using 60/40 rosin core, acid core will cause a mess and will corrode the wire over time, no matter how good you think you cleaned it. (This includes acid based flux, liquid or paste style.) You can still buy rosin core solder, 63/37 rosin core solder maybe more common, it is designed to have a faster setup time as it has a closer temperature window and will create less cold solder joints. You can purchase all you would ever want from Tessco.com. They are a electronics supply company.

Your wires MUST be clean and shinny if they are dirty and tarnished the solder will roll off like water off a ducks back, also DO NOT use a torch the flame will cause the solder to not stick, you need to use a solder gun, soldering iron, or a soldering iron heated with a torch. The tip must be cleaned and tinned with solder, if it is not already. Also do not use the solder to create the "mechanical support" for the wires, they need to be carefully twisted together, the solder creates the tight connection for conductivity and to stop corrosion, and yes just the plain old air over time will cause wire to get a fine coating of corrosion and limit the conductivity of the connection.

 

[P.S.]

It probably already has flux in it. You can add paste flux which may help. For my electrical work at the circuit board level, I actually prefer to use solder without flux and to use the paste flux and do it myself. However, soldering like that is an acquired skill.

Anyway, as stated above, make sure the copper wires are perfectly clean. Then, make sure they have good contact together for heat distribution. Then, make sure you get the wires good and hot. If you do, the solder should flow just fine. You can use a heat gun to start heating the wires if needed.

 

[jkcrosson]

Thanks guys. I give it another try Monday.

 

[Bill's Auto Works]

Lots of good information listed above. Unless I missed it, you should "tin" both wires first, this should help a good bit.

 

[PC/SR]

The wires must be hot enough to melt the solder so the solder flows onto and into the wires. Put the solder tip under the wires and heat them until the solder flows on from the top.

 

[newshirt]

Also do not use the solder to create the "mechanical support" for the wires, they need to be carefully twisted together, the solder creates the tight connection for conductivity and to stop corrosion, and yes just the plain old air over time will cause wire to get a fine coating of corrosion and limit the conductivity of the connection.

I second this. Make certain the wires have a good mechanical connection before soldering. E.g. a good twist with pliers. Without that, solder can fracture and separate from vibration and age. Hot wires should draw the melted solder in.

 

[CWPASADENA]

If your solder is solid and does not have a rosin core, use a rosin based flux, not an acid or caustic based flux.

If you use acid or caustic based flux with electrical, you will wind up with corrosion in the soldered joint.

I will usually use a little extra rosin when using rosin core solder. It just makes getting a good joint a little easier.

As stated before, heat the wires with the iron until the solder will melt when touched to the wire. Do not melt the solder with the iron itself.

My experience.

Chris W.

 

[Mitch//pa]

all is great advice above
i also have a WEN 250 like Tom has its a great old antique powerful soldering gun. i found mine on ebay it came with the original box instructions and extra tips all in great shape

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Then, make sure you get the wires good and hot. If you do, the solder should flow just fine.

The wires must be hot enough...

Hot wires should draw the melted solder in.

As stated before, heat the wires...

Chris W.

Gee, sometimes I wonder if my post even show up on the forum Threads...

See post #2;

Are you getting the wires hot enough?

 

[Mitch//pa]

What post?

but to the OP make sure you get the wires hot and clean thats the key

 

[Y-Blockhead]

Actually you'll notice that most connectors are crimped these days but for our cars unacceptable?

Most people don't know how to solder correctly and a good crimp is much better. But that doesn't help the "Points Guy" much.

 

[mshmodela]

Clean the wires and get it hot first... Might take a minute or more if your iron is not that strong... If it's not working, you might need a hotter iron...

 

[takomaned]

I used to use an electric gun until I bought a PowerProbe Torch kit from the tool man. It works so well I took the time to write a review on it. I've found that using small dis. rosin core with some silver content works well. Using flux is also a big help. A can or tube from Radio Shak will last for decades.

 

[just plain bill]

Gee, sometimes I wonder if my post even show up on the forum Threads...

See post #2;

I saw it !!

 

[Cool Hand Lurker]

"Most people don't know how to solder correctly and a good crimp is much better. But that doesn't help the "Points Guy" much."

Don't depend on the crimp too much. First, most of us don't have a professional quality crimping tool and the cheap ones just don't do a good enough job. Even with the good ones, the parts of the wire that are not in direct contact with the crimped terminal have little or no contact and will corrode over time. They may also get loose. If you later get an electrical problem the first thing you should check are all the crimped contacts.
I do use a crimper to basically hold the wires in place while soldering. I first clean the wires well, use lots of flux and solder the crimped connection for the best electrical contact. I have few problems with bad connections.
Oh yeah, be sure to clean the wires well and use lots of flux and heat.

 

[SeaSlugs]

"Most people don't know how to solder correctly and a good crimp is much better. But that doesn't help the "Points Guy" much."

Don't depend on the crimp too much. First, most of us don't have a professional quality crimping tool and the cheap ones just don't do a good enough job. Even with the good ones, the parts of the wire that are not in direct contact with the crimped terminal have little or no contact and will corrode over time. They may also get loose. If you later get an electrical problem the first thing you should check are all the crimped contacts.
I do use a crimper to basically hold the wires in place while soldering. I first clean the wires well, use lots of flux and solder the crimped connection for the best electrical contact. I have few problems with bad connections.
Oh yeah, be sure to clean the wires well and use lots of flux and heat.

yup i agree, usually first place to look for poor grounds/poor connections is crimped terminals. I do as cool hand does and crimp and solder. Cant count the number of times ive had crimped connections break apart from corrosion. if their soldered correctly some of the solder goes into the wire and gives it additional strength and conductivity.