Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I spent 3 hours a couple nights ago making a water outlet to match my nice factory made inlet with an opening for a heater hose. I torqued everything to 55 two days ago. Today I removed the outlet to install my test plates to make sure the engine held pressure. Even though the aluminum outlet plate is 3/8" thick it flexed enough to mess up the end of the outlet gasket that's been on the engine for the past 20 or more years.
That gasket is metal center with a composition just like the dark grey exhaust manifold gaskets. It's the first one like it I've seen for a water outlet. Most are paper or the copper/asbestos gasket. Of course we all know what happens with the paper gasket. It gets wet and the ear breaks off.
No gasket really is the safest, but I've never broken an ear when using the copper gasket either.
Not seeing the outer end of the gasket squashed I used it again and of course snapped the ear off. I'll go with no gasket this time. I'll also just tap the outlet for a short 3/8" pipe, rather than welding on a female threaded cast part. The casting is thick enough for a good thread to be tapped.
That gasket is metal center with a composition just like the dark grey exhaust manifold gaskets. It's the first one like it I've seen for a water outlet. Most are paper or the copper/asbestos gasket. Of course we all know what happens with the paper gasket. It gets wet and the ear breaks off.
No gasket really is the safest, but I've never broken an ear when using the copper gasket either.
Not seeing the outer end of the gasket squashed I used it again and of course snapped the ear off. I'll go with no gasket this time. I'll also just tap the outlet for a short 3/8" pipe, rather than welding on a female threaded cast part. The casting is thick enough for a good thread to be tapped.