Shocks - reproduction vs. rebuilt

4

42horsepower

New member
Hello all! I'm nearing the end of a restoration project on a '29 pickup. I need to buy shocks (it didn't come with any, so can't rebuild). I would appreciate any recommendations on reproductions vs. rebuilds and sourcing. All the other threads say Stipes. I haven't called them yet, but it sounds like the wait time would probably be a deal breaker for me. It's a family heirloom and the family is eager to drive it while the weather is nice, so I do need something that will be shipped soon. Thanks!
 
42horsepower said:
Hello all! I'm nearing the end of a restoration project on a '29 pickup. I need to buy shocks (it didn't come with any, so can't rebuild). I would appreciate any recommendations on reproductions vs. rebuilds and sourcing. All the other threads say Stipes. I haven't called them yet, but it sounds like the wait time would probably be a deal breaker for me. It's a family heirloom and the family is eager to drive it while the weather is nice, so I do need something that will be shipped soon. Thanks!
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I’ve been waiting over a year for shocks ordered from Stripes, and now they won’t even return my messages asking for projected delivery. Brentwood Bob on this forum rebuilds shocks, suggest you contact him.

JayJay
 
There is a guy here that has several original equipment (OEM) rebuilt sets ready to ship today. Cost will be comparable to Stipes.
He also has OEM shock arms and tubular links.
If you contact him, mention your cars manufacture date, so there is a correct matchup.
PM me.
Pictures in the for sale section listing.
Ps: thanks, JayJay.
 
Thanks everyone!

Bob - Thanks, I'll message you.

I was wondering if anyone has used the Bratton's reproductions or if folks like rebuilt better. In addition to performance, I'm curious about maintenance and oil leaks. Thanks!
 
Brentwood Bob said:
There is a guy here that has several original equipment (OEM) rebuilt sets ready to ship today. Cost will be comparable to Stipes.
He also has OEM shock arms and tubular links.
If you contact him, mention your cars manufacture date, so there is a correct matchup.
PM me.
Pictures in the for sale section listing.
Ps: thanks, JayJay.
Click to expand...

Hey Bob, I can't PM you because I'm too new to the forums. Apparently I need to post several more times!
 
As discussed in previous threads, OEM shocks drop oil. Annual spring prep/ maintenance would be a good time to include checking the shocks, although this is not done. Failure, I think, is from neglect. The nitrile seals for the shaft I use should last years, probably well past the 5 years some replacements give. The driver model a's leave oil, and were designed to do that. Salt is not your cars friend. Nor is dust, mud, gravel roads, wind driven sand, small animals, etc.
I believe the "rebuilt"(disassembled, cleaned, new seals, refilled, assembled, tested for function, sealed, and leak tested), Houdaille shock goes on the car, and will give adequate service for a long time. That's its job, and it will do it well.
 
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And - the so called "friction" shocks are still available.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction_disk_shock_absorber

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Friction-Shocks,3799.html

Still in some use among the hot-rod crowd. One can actually "tune" these quite well to get to the "vibration neutral point."

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Critical damping is the "sweet spot" (Minimal time to restoration of neutral)

Putting your girlfriend in the passenger seat can screw this up.

That might be where the term "Hop-Rod" came from.

Joe K
 
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Joe K said:
And - the so called "friction" shocks are still available.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction_disk_shock_absorber

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Friction-Shocks,3799.html

Still in some use among the hot-rod crowd. One can actually "tune" these quite well to get to the "vibration neutral point."
Joe K
Click to expand...

"The damping rate for frictional dampers has less than ideal behaviour for car suspension. An ideal suspension would offer more damping to greater suspension forces, with less damping at low speeds for a smoother ride. Frictional dampers though had a mostly constant rate. This was even greater when stationary, owing to stiction between stationary plates.[1][10] For larger bumps the damping may even be reduced. This is particularly a problem for fast driving, when repeated high forces may cause the friction plates to heat up and lose their efficiency."

In leaf springs, the diagram looks like coil springs, there is already a fair bit of friction.
 
351cmach said:
I used a set of Rotoshim for my car. The car rides amazing. They look like originals but are designed with new technology. Well worth the money. https://rotoshim.com/products-1/ols/products/rotoshim-handed-pair-excluding-bolts-and-arms-ford-model-a
Click to expand...

I've been using the Rotoshims - I have a set on two cars now. Definitely recommend them. If you tell them your application they can be factory tuned. Each shock is dynamically tested after assembly to make sure they're matched.
 
Don't wait to drive the car. Shocks or not, the car will go down the road just fine without them. Your wallet will help you decide which set of shocks you will get, but enjoy the short driving season while you can. The original type shocks are best, as I like originality on the Model A's if possible. If you spring a leak with the less expensive ones, I don't know how one could replace seals in them, but I imagine they could be if they went in them at one point.
 
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