Secret Tips

I've also had to build up the bulb contacts with a drop of solder. Road salt is a killer for tail lights, especially on trailers, so I figured I'd put Vaseline in the socket to stop corrosion. It melts at the bulb temperature and made a mess, so I switched to high temp grease, and that works fine.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
I can't imagine the HORRORS of dealing with ROAD SALT, I've worked on a few cars from back there & it's SO SAD.
Bill W.
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Bill not only does road salt rot the metal in the car it kills the grass and pits the driveway and sidewalk concrete. Many places gave now outlawed it and use liquid ice melter !
Wayne
P.s. Good thread Bill!
 
Road salt has even eaten the concrete floor of my garage. It makes a real mess on windshields and blocks your vision when the roads are full of slush.
 
You guys don't know any thing about road salt ! Try driving in winter in Salt Lake City UT and see what it does to your cars.
 
another tip, when your finished repacking the front wheel bearings and reinstalling the cotter key, put it in the hole with the short leg facing out, then cut off the long leg up against the nut, then bend over the short leg, all the cotter key does is stop the nut from unscrewing and the key from falling out, don't need two bent legs to stop that, and its a lot easier to remove the key with only one bent cotter key leg
 
WestCoast said:
another tip, when your finished repacking the front wheel bearings and reinstalling the cotter key, put it in the hole with the short leg facing out, then cut off the long leg up against the nut, then bend over the short leg, all the cotter key does is stop the nut from unscrewing and the key from falling out, don't need two bent legs to stop that, and its a lot easier to remove the key with only one bent cotter key leg
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Chief was an ARTIST at settin' cotter keys, like what you said, & he would grasp that short end with the dikes & lever the head of the key, TIGHT, in the slot, before bending it over. His Rule was that the key should NOT even WOBBLE! On clevis pins, he'd do it in the same manner & bend it tight OVER the end of the pin & clip it SHORT & neat. That's NOT the high points way, but it's QUICK, EASY & looks NEAT:D Whoever did Vermin just BARELY spread the LEGS of the keys! (Pathetic!)
If I did one "sub standard", he'd make me re-do it-------:rolleyes:
Bill W.
 
Once again! Bill, you've scored a winner with this thread! Keep em' coming! Anybody want to hear how I clean Mod A bolts with a die and keep them on Henry's size? I'll swap you for the method to bend two piece gutters and fit them together on a Town Sedan.
Terry
 
I'm with you JWilli...I generally find that using OEM parts and taking care of the machinery is the best way to do it all...Restored my first Tudor in the 60's with JC Whitney, Warshawski and Argentine parts...redid it in the 90's with OEM and it never ran better...then did a Vicky in the 80's with all the current parts, and completely redid it with parts bought and reconditioned at swap meets...now working on a completely OEM 180A...that has taken over 15 years to get it all right and I still stop to study...
 
Per reply #28 & #32, a very old vintage fence shocker operated with two (2) large, (approximately 8" tall x 3" diameter) dry cell battery was used years ago.

Be extremely careful with any "homemade" type fence shockers of unknown amperage.

I knew a guy who rigged one up, turned it "ON", and found his dead mule later that afternoon with his head hanging on the electric fence wire.

Same could possibly happen to dogs, cats, and bare footed children.

I much prefer to wash my wheels and allow the dogs to enjoy life.
 
I don't have any Secret fix/tip for a Model A, if I did and I posted it, everybody would think I was bullshitting :o, so I'm keeping all my secret tip/fixes to myself!!!!! :p
 
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