Removing flathead studs?

41 Ford, would you please post the Cornwell part number if stamped on the remover. Went to their site and they have lots of removers without pictures. I think a center torque remover is superior to the std remover with one wheel and a offset hole for a pull handle.
 
Yea 41 Ford, I did the same thing.
The part # would be great.
I have the shap on style with the different thread collets.
I have only had 1 ( one ) stud that I could not get out.
Seems I am in the running for the one who has the most toys WINS
I think if I can get one of these I will get out of the Most honerable mention category.

I was just thinking isn't it the job of the forum Police to remove the flathead STUDS
from this site LOL LOL

THANKS
 
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The only thing stamped on the holder is - CORNWELL--PAT.APD. FOR------USA.
Each insert is stamped for size. 5/16, 3/8, 7/16 and 1/2. This set is in a red metal box.
 
Best to NOT heat the stud or Bolt.
Warm the iron block [ i leave mine next to the shop heater for an hour before hand[ . you really need the older style- cam-offset stud remover that has the nurled edge on the roller.
if it wont budge & you then finally break it off , carefully grind it level [dont mark the block] & start drilling accuratly from centre, starting with a Tungsten 3/16 drill & then one drill size at a time untill close [ use an engineers tap & drill chart-guide].
Finally ,use a new 7/16 nc tap to finish.
If you are accurate, & lucky, the new tap will chase the old stud threads out.

However you go about it , just be patient .
 
The Snap On collet is the ONLY tool that will really work. Cooking the block first helps. You should clean a block with the acid type submerge that's used for complete auto bodies. It will remove the rust mineral deposits from well water, that most of these engines started life with. I sincerely believe most flat head cooling troubles are due to mineral build ups in the block that no solvent hot tank solution will touch.
 
Rascal said:
Best to NOT heat the stud or Bolt.
Warm the iron block [ i leave mine next to the shop heater for an hour before hand[ . you really need the older style- cam-offset stud remover that has the nurled edge on the roller.
if it wont budge & you then finally break it off , carefully grind it level [dont mark the block] & start drilling accuratly from centre, starting with a Tungsten 3/16 drill & then one drill size at a time untill close [ use an engineers tap & drill chart-guide].
Finally ,use a new 7/16 nc tap to finish.
If you are accurate, & lucky, the new tap will chase the old stud threads out.

However you go about it , just be patient .
Click to expand...

Broken stud removal is easily done with a good tig welder and a washer and nut welded on the stud quench it when hot with a candle and remove it when it is cool to the touch.Break a drill bit off in the stud and you will be using this welding method .If you start by heating the stud up a torch and tighten it a small amount it then comes out after a wax quench.Bin there done that.

R
 
Whatever method you try use a tee handle rather than a breaker bar when you turn from one side you are putting a side ways torque on the stud and that is what breaks it. I have a 1/2 inch drive craftsman tee which I made extension handles from a broom handle so my hands are about 3 feet apart. I have no class so I use cheap harbor freight stud removers and have not broken any since using this method. Before when I broke one I mig welded a nut to the broken studs and they all came out. Boiling the block before removal is the best but sometimes not possible.
 
36tbird said:
I think that all of the comments here epitomize the glamor and stigma of the flathead. In other words, removing studs is a right of passage in becoming a "flathead guy".

Try all of the methods. When it all fails, keep an old head around for it to be a guide in drilling the mother out. Then, you may have to get a timesert or some other replacement of the offending hole to make everything whole again.
Click to expand...

It's a Right-Of-Passage all right...

Drill 'em out:eek::confused: When it gets to that stage I blow 'em out with the gas-axe. Clean up the threads and voila! Good as new.
 
I have had 100% success:
Heat stud with an Oxy/Act torch, as it cools, use either wax or WD 40 (WD 40 will smoke).
Let cool and use your stud puller/vise grips/whatever. It works every time
 
When using the 'gas axe' to burn the broken stud out, first drill a hole (1/8"-3/16") clear through the stud so the slag won't blow back at you but instead will blow on down into the water jacket. Don't wave the tip around, just heat the stud next to the hole you drilled. When it gets red, hit the oxygen lever and stay on it until all of the stud is burned out. You can move the tip around in the hole and even aim at the block threads to burn out all the crumbs (just keep it moving). Since you hit the oxygen lever before the block threads got red, you will not hurt them (ever try to cut a cold piece of metal by hitting the oxygen lever right away? Doesn't work! The extra oxygen just cools the metal unless it is already red hot, and then it actually burns, not melt).
 
And on the S-o collett, note the instructions; it gets tightened REALLYTIGHT at the gripping part, at which time that stud is going to be packing to leave.
 
There was an old post done several years ago about welding a nut to broken studs and removing them while still hot. I tried it and had great success with the method,I'll try to find the opst in the archives.
 
FRANK PKNY said:
There was an old post done several years ago about welding a nut to broken studs and removing them while still hot. I tried it and had great success with the method,I'll try to find the opst in the archives.
Click to expand...


I've done removed a number of broken studs using this method and never had an issue. Work each time I used it.
 
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