Removing flathead studs?

[Ghost of elmirage]

If I was gonna use heat to take out the head studs in my 59A flathead block. Where would i concentrate the heat so I don't wreck the block? Also would I use aceteline or will MAP gas work just as well?

 

[Jason in TX]

I used a propane torch around the base and some wax to seep down into block to help. I only did a few to mount an offset generator. Did this at an engine machine shop because they recommended it. It was still difficult. I have to do all of them in the future to install the finned heads that need longer studs and I'm not looking forward to it.

 

[TomT/Williamsburg]

Snapon used to make a tool to remove head studs - I know my old engine builder had one. It was kind of like a pipe wrench in design, on a 8-10" extension, and was able to be put on a 1/2" rachet. That and a breaker bar at the end of the ratchet, with a little Kroil or something similar having been applied an hour or so before, usually got the tough rusted in ones moving again for him. Grabbing them right at the deck, and not at an angle to the stud, and twisting them tight first, was the trick in not breaking the stud.

I watched him do a block that looked like a lump of rust and he got every one of them out as described.

 

[funrunr]

I was told by a friend that he would heat and soak with penetrating oil hours earlier and then weld a nut onto the stud and the heat from the weld would be much hotter than a torch. this would allow him to put a socket onto it and begin loosening before it cooled.
The stud and nut are destroyed but easier than breaking and drilling.

 

[41ford1]

I've got these. Don't know how old they are, but I've seen them swap meets once in a while. I've never broken a stud using them. Never heard of the wax and heat method. I'll have to try it next time. If you need heat the propane should be more than enough.

 

[Henry/Kokomo]

Several good ideas here. I've used the wax-and-heat method for a number of extra tight and/or rusty fasteners. Small birthday cake candles work well as a wax source. It's easier to control where the wax is going rather than using a larger candle. FWIW

 

[296 V8]

Iv removed hundreds this way and rarely break one….its also the fastest way.

1. Soak back side of studs w Gibs for a few days.
2. heat around base of stud
3. Use a standard pipe wrench to get them lose … then spin it out w vice grips.

You will find most stud tools slip and interfere with the next stud / are to big.

Stud removers are NOT! designed for rusted in studs ... they are for removing and saving marginally tight ones.


You want to break a bunch of them? …. Use a stud tool and better yet put an impact on it.

 

[Chris Nelson]

I had one like 41Ford1 showed in his pictures manufactured by Cornwell Tools. I used to work on marine engines and it was invaluable for removing studs. You could put a rattle wrench on it and slowly work the studs loose.

 

[Tim Ayers]

Sears/Craftsman has a 1/2" stud installer/remover. Has a wheel that grips the side of the stud. It's worked for me.

I've done all of the above. Using some type of penetrant is absolute.

Someone along the way posted this following tip and it has also worked for me so I'll pass it along: Before trying to remove the stud, turn it tighter just a smidge. You'll hear some crackling and other noise and then try backing them out.

This turn seems to break free the bond of rust or whatever and also it to back out. It seems there is less stress going a little deeper than trying to back all the way out. I think that's the idea behind it.

 

[Charlie Stephens]

If all else fails there are companies that specialize in removing broken studs.

Charlie Stephens

 

[Ken Arms]

if your planning a rebuild leave them, once the block is boiled they will come out easy.

 

[Robert Dip]

About 10 years ago, a buddy gave me this stud removal tool. Snap-on A-80-A.

When I used it, something inside broke…..he then told me…no problem. He gave it to the local Snap-on tool guy….tools guaranteed for life, and within a couple of weeks got it back all repaired. If they were able to repair it, they must still be available.
I googled it and yep…there it is:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=632121&group_ID=675444

I’ve never had a problem with it since, works great….but the shocker was when I found it on the web, it’s pricy….$241.00. Hey…..it’s a real tool and made in the USA and guaranteed for life.
Also, not a problem clearing the other studs when removing one.
Robert

 

[Bruce Lancaster]

If you are sending Snap-on lots of money...they actually have better for cheaper!

Rather than 3 rollers or the rather risky cam type, this is a full-on collet one whose operation is concentric and grips 360:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=675443&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

It is similar (though larger) to the one shown in the flathead overhaul manual.

 

[47COE]

Snap On makes a threaded collet stud remover that works well. A set of 3 collets and the housing costs $130. Just the housing and one collet is $100 so I got the set even though I likely won't ever need the other two sizes.

See Snap On set CG500

The included instructions say to tighten the collet to something over 200 ft-lbs. For some studs it is indeed necessary to get it that tight.


Tom

 

[bobH]

I've got the snap-on tool shown by Robert, above. In my opinion, it's junk. I had no trouble breaking it, trying to remove flathead studs. Only good part was... Snap-On repaired it. (and I've never used it, since)
I've also used a variation of the tool shown by 41ford1, above. I've never had any trouble with it, and it's worked on some might stuck studs.
JMO...

 

[36tbird]

I think that all of the comments here epitomize the glamor and stigma of the flathead. In other words, removing studs is a right of passage in becoming a "flathead guy".

Try all of the methods. When it all fails, keep an old head around for it to be a guide in drilling the mother out. Then, you may have to get a timesert or some other replacement of the offending hole to make everything whole again.

 

[1952henry]

Two nuts tightened together ( and bottom nut gripped with wrench) will install/remove studs

 

[4tford]

I am with Henry, and the stubborn ones may require a little heat and cool down.

 

[Pete]

I think that all of the comments here epitomize the glamor and stigma of the flathead. In other words, removing studs is a right of passage in becoming a "flathead guy".

Try all of the methods. When it all fails, keep an old head around for it to be a guide in drilling the mother out. Then, you may have to get a timesert or some other replacement of the offending hole to make everything whole again.

Roger on all that and if you are stupid enough to break an "easyout" off in the hole, seek out a machine shop with an EDM machine.
I used to teach all this crap in advanced machine shop and I always asked, if you break a 7/16 stud off in the hole, how do you expect to extract it with something SMALLER???? Not going to happen.
There has NEVER been a stud stuck in a hole that could not be MACHINED or picked out. "Easyouts" and tap extractors are the work of the devil.
I have spoken.

 

[WRA]

I soak in Kroil for about a week. Basically apply every night for a week. Then my Craftsman 1/2 stud remover works well. This work 90% of the time, but broke one off last summer. Tried to remove it myself and made it worse. I snapped off an "Easy Out" in the stud base. When I took it to the shop, he had to remove the broken Easy out and weld a bolt to the stud. Think it cost me $40, but I was stuck.

For the O/P question, I heat it up at the base but not red hot. Kroil, heat, repeat.