Removed engine; some improvements?

Hallo Ranchero,

are you sure that the correct screw length has been installed? The rubber intermediate layers must not be squeezed because then the springy comfort cannot swing.

The 3 sleeves should prevent too much compression.

The required tightening force was very low, I estimate the torque at 2 m / kp.

The other picture shows the protruding screw ends and the soft rubber plate in more details. -


At Katy: You are sure to be on the right place?
 

Attachments

  • P1020098.JPG
    P1020098.JPG
    59 KB · Views: 70
Since the discussion continues, I should add, you can experiment with how tight the tubular inserts are clamped, but in my experience I could not get any difference in vibration if tightly clamped or if some movement is allowed.
 
Guten Abend Russ,

you are right. Because there ist only a swinging way about 1/10", there is not a big feelin' different. But if the rubbers are too much pressed, the swinging moves destroy the rubbers.
 
Hallihallo, the engine is finally installed again. Hearty toil!​
 

Attachments

  • 20200201_161907K_resized.jpg
    20200201_161907K_resized.jpg
    67.5 KB · Views: 86
  • P1020219K.jpg
    P1020219K.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 88
Considering all the problems with this engine, maybe you should keep an eye out for a German B engine or a Russian GAZ as a future replacement.
 
The block is cast iron, welding may not work very well on that metal. They have done stitching on the block since the cars were new. It doesn't involve welding the metal but instead boring holes and screwing in studs then boring and screwing in more that overlap the first ones. It amounts to filling the crack with new metal. There are videos on youtube showing the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk

There is another series of videos of a shop repairing a model A block that it cracked from the cylinder to the valve seat but it doesn't sound like that is your problem. A machine shop should know all about it.
 
Considering all the problems with this engine, maybe you should keep an eye out for a German B engine or a Russian GAZ as a future replacement.

I never thought of that. A G28T would be a huge improvement. Wonder how easy one would be to find?
 
Sorry, picture mistake. Don'n know how to remove.
 

Attachments

  • P1020219K.jpg
    P1020219K.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 29
Last edited:
Guten Morgen!

The uncertainty of the risk of breakage of a welded cast ingot bares naturally also in me.

But in Germany there are not really spare parts for Model A or B. Some dealers offer few parts that they buy in the USA. I can do that by myself.

Of course I'm looking for a replacement engine!

Please, what is a G28T engine type?
 
Hallihallo!

Many days, many hours of work. Today the removed engine was running again for the first time. Nice day!
 

Attachments

  • P1100828.JPG
    P1100828.JPG
    159 KB · Views: 50
Hallo Russ!
It looks good! But I only drove 1/2 mile. Without a seat, without the hood, no headlights, no license plate. Our policemen are not amused by something like that ...
 
Hallo Russ!
It looks good! But I only drove 1/2 mile. Without a seat, without the hood, no headlights, no license plate. Our policemen are not amused by something like that ...

Our police are not overly impressed by something like that either.

Although it does look good.

BTW, what make/model are those spark plugs?
 
Guten Abend Ken.
That's modern iridium spark plugs with adapters. NGK BPR 5 EiX. Best for cold start idle and a little bit less consumption.
 
Very good evening at all together!

Now 10 miles test drive today. (Still without seats.) Everything's fine. The 2nd gear no longer howls. The tautly manual transmission is tight. Also the cardan / universal gear. No leakage at the front of the crankshaft. And no more water in the oil!

A lot of work, but also a lot of joy.

I would like to thank all the advisers again, otherwise the work would not have been so perfect.
 
Back
Top