Removed engine; some improvements?

Werner.. the micro-cracks you see in the flywheel surface are fairly common. Remachining the surface should clean it up but whatever depth of cut is necessary must also be taken off the land which the pressure plate bolts to.


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My flywheel had many more mico cracks. The guy that did my engine said that was not an issue. He resurfaced it and 9,000 miles later it still feels new.
 
macdonge said:
Remachining the surface should clean it up but whatever depth of cut is necessary must also be taken off the land which the pressure plate bolts to.
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MacDone, thank you for the hint, sorry that I canot understand the red marked sentence.
Would you please explane it detailed? Thank you!
 
I'm pretty sure the new rope seals are teflon,I don't know if you have to soak them in oil,I did not and found no problems.
 
Werner... Regarding the "red marked sentence" : "It is critical that the normal distance between the flywheel clutch surface and the pressure plate clutch surface be maintained after the flywheel is machined. This is done by machining the area of the flywheel where the pressure plate mounts. The amount of metal removed from this surface should be equal to the amount removed from the flywheel clutch surface (plus any amount also removed from the pressure plate clutch surface, if it also needs to be machined. Not a factor if a new pressure plate is used)." If this is not done, the depth of clutch engagement is compromised.
 
N'Abend Macdonge,
thanks for the explanation. I dismantle the disk of the pressure unit and let it turn off 0.06". I think that the thinness can be compensated with the adjustmentable feet screws.

Thanks again!
 
I would like to thank you especially for this wise advice from Ryan.
ryanheacox said:
I would pull the transmission, inspect the gears and change the bearings. I didn't when I had my engine rebuilt and then I found myself pulling the transmission 1000 miles later to do a rebuild... would have been much easier with the engine already out.
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Honestly, I did not feel like to lift the gearbox too. But what Ryan wrote is very reasonable. After sleepless night, I have therefore pulled out the gearbox today.

Thanks for the future-wise advice, Ryanheacox!
 

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Did you pull off the pedals and transmission tower to get it out of the car?? Must have been a pain with it all together like that. You won't regret going through everything, even if it's perfect (which the odds of that are slim) you will have peace of mind afterwards.



Good luck, Werner and keep us posted on what you find.
 
Check all of your transmission bearings, maybe replace gaskets, and check gears for pitting and broken teeth. Do the pedals need to be rebushed or new shafts?
 
Install the rope seal dry then smear grease on it to keep the crankshaft from burning it until enough oil splashes up and soaks he seal.
 
Werner, is the fourth photo in your post #17, a rear hub? If so, it looks to be quite bad. I have just converted the hubs on one of my cars to modern roller bearings. The original hubs on my car weren't as bad as what you have so I think yours need attention. The vendors sell a repair kit for the rear wheel bearings but I don't think they are very good. They rely on using the rollers from a V8 car and the reproduced ones of those are of poor quality. So are some of the sleeves for the trumpet and hub.
If you like, send me a PM with your email address and I will send you an article I wrote about my conversion which explains exactly what I did.
 
Thanks for advice.

Sorry I put a wrong old picture. Another theme. It was made 1 year ago. It's the reare axle bearing face, I repaired it with the sleeve repair kit like you.
 
Werner said:
Thanks for advice.

Sorry I put a wrong old picture. Another theme. It was made 1 year ago. It's the reare axle bearing face, I repaired it with the sleeve repair kit like you.
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Werner, I did not use the commercially available repair kit. I didn't think they are good enough so I used modern bearings. I suggest you keep an eye on the hubs to see that they don't wear too quickly.
 
Good evening at all together!

Can someone please explain me how to mount this Bratton's Engine Motor Mounting Kit?

I find only short hints. But I didn't understand it correctly.

No rubber intermediate layer was installed when the engine was removed.


Thanks!
 

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The metal plate and the flat rubber are on the outside of the frame. The "L" shaped piece fits between the metal motor mount ant the inside of the frame rail. The 3 tubular spacers fit through the frame and the 2 rubbers.
 
Thank you Russ for the hint!

I could not understand the assembly because the outer parts of my car were missing. There were only the screws. And inside a rock-hard mass like tar. No sleeves. No split pins.

Now it's correkt mounted.
 

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FWIW, that large nut on the spare tire carrier is the same as the rear axle nut. I know because I "borrowed" one one time when we lost an axle nut on the road.
 

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