Removed engine; some improvements?

Werner

Werner

Well-known member
Good evening all together.

Because the engine block crack can only be welded when removed, now the question of what should be done while this occasion.

I think to renew the clutch friction disk and the clutch pressure release bearing (1/4 inch radial clearance).

Are there any further suggestions?


Thanks in advance for helpin' sentence.
 

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If you replace the crankshaft pulley use a one piece one. I have had the two piece type fail. Engine looks clean. Good Luck!
 
Also change the pilot bearing when you do the clutch. If the pressure plate has been balanced with the flywheel you might not want to change it unless it really needs it.

I would pull the transmission, inspect the gears and change the bearings. I didn't when I had my engine rebuilt and then I found myself pulling the transmission 1000 miles later to do a rebuild... would have been much easier with the engine already out. Not to mention it's easier to install the engine and transmission back into the car as a unit.
 
I prefer "stitching" the block rather than welding, and maybe it can be done without removing the engine if the crack is reachable. I just lube the throwout bearing, using a wheel bearing packer to force the grease in, same with pilot brg.
 
Replace & rebuild:

Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Throw-Out Bearing
Transmission Pilot Bearing in Flywheel
Front Engine Mount Springs
Rubber Pads on Rear Engine Mounts
All Engine Gaskets
Camshaft Timing Gear
Distributor-Oil Pump Drive Gear
Original Valve Lifters
Rebuild Steering Gearbox
Fix Cracks in Front Cross-member
Starter Ring Gear

Starter Switch Rod Grommet
 
If you are removing the water pump, replace the 4-studs with bolts. We use clutch housing-to-flywheel bolts, correct pitch and length. This makes it much easier to replace the water pump on the car for future maintenance without needing to remove the radiator.
 
Guten Abend,
many thanks for the great advices! I write what I think to do:

New friction disc.

Renew the clutch pressure bearing in the gear splines (wobble).

Renew the bearing that I can see in the middle of the pressure plate (rough).

All four rubber pads are missing, they were not mounted.

Oil pan off, perhaps due to grains of dirt from the crumbled camshaft wheel in front of the sieve of the oil pump.

Starter gear wreath is perfect.

I only renew the pressure plate if it has grooves. Otherwise, I clean and grease the joints. (I'll see that part tomorrow.)

I will polish the tread of the pulleye.

At the revision of the water pump I have already installed the short nozzles.


The hint to expand the transmission at this torture, is very good. Although I do not like this bone work. But I can see shavings on the oilscrew magnet, and the 2nd gear howls. -


One more question: I have some of these half circle seals. There are modern circular shaft seals in the catalog. Are they really better?
Edit: This one: https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/...FRONT-CRANK-SEAL?fromCategory=SearchByKeyword
 

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In addition to what the others have suggested, I suggest the following: I had to do this very same thing last year. I had my engine "stitched", which has done very well for nearly 1000 miles. While the engine was out, I took the opportunity to:
1. change the clutch disc and pressure plate. It chattered terribly. I reinstalled the engine and the new pressure plate was terribly out of balance. Quite the second order vibration. I had to pull the engine again and re-balance everything.

2. Adjust the valves. (much easier to do when the engine is out)
3. Check bearing clearances (much easier to do when the engine is out of the car!!)
 
When you get it apart check the name on throwout bearing...

Might say "Aetna" there are a bunch of those still around at swap meets, Ebay and such.

They were recalled many years ago ... after vendors found many failures.

Considering the amount labor involved in replacing the T.O. bearing this is a good reason to buy parts from a known dealer to avoid some of the junk at swap meets!!
 
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Scary insights that I must see now because the sudden crack give me some looks through the engine block!

I think the car has been underwater for 30 years. Rust everywhere where only oil should be. Even the bottom baffles from the oil pan insert are perforated. Oil pump screws fragmented. Cracks in the flywheel and in the pressure plate.
 

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dansluck said:
If you replace the crankshaft pulley use a one piece one. I have had the two piece type fail. Engine looks clean. Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Now that I have one on an engine, I wouldn't use anything other than one of the New Zealand made pullies with a harmonic balancer built in.

Werner, I get the imperession you are becoming disheartened with your car. Please perservere. It will be worth it in the end and you have plenty of good advice here. I have found that bringing a car back to top condition is a reward in itself and that in turn makes driving it an even more enjoyable experience.
If by "improvements" you mean more power or just more robust, again there is plenty of advice. I have my own version of that and probably everyone else has too. I'd be glad to elaborate on what I have done by private message if you like.
 
Werner, try and not take it personally as it looks like you got screwed by someone, maybe unwittingly. The vehicle may have changed hands more than once after the (((restoration))). But it also may have been restored by the seller. If you can afford it monetarily, it will be a great experience for you as you will (((KNOW))) the car inside and out. Hang in there and hopefully the rest will be in good shape.
 
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