Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?

I wouldn't do a thing to that engine until you have read JWL's Flathead Facts book. It will save you a bunch of unnecessary spending. Even if you have no other, that is the one book every flathead owner should have.
 
I am definitely going to get that book, as well as some of the others that have been previously mentioned. Thanks!
 
Low-Blow said:
Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?
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Both pumps, fuel and oil are perfectly fine for use if, IF, there rebuilt correctly and within spec.

In my opinion, correctly rebuilt is often preferable to most new reproduction stuff.
For example, new fuel pumps oftentimes deliver to much fuel pressure, lots have diaphragms that get eaten by corn gas. Charlie Ny can build you a fuel pump that will survive pumping paint thinners!
Martin.
 
I agree that rebuilt (correctly) and/or refurbished is often superior to new. Has nothing to do with engines, but another area it is true is master cylinders and wheel cylinders. I would lean toward the rebuilt, especially on items where you have Barn members that supply superior products.
 
Super excited right now! I dropped off the block and heads today at the machine shop. The gentleman who will be doing the work is now retired and works out of his brother's backyard shop. He came highly recommended from a good friend. I believe that he is qualified, as he spent 22 years working for Reher-Morrison. I can't wait to get on with this build. Thank you for all of the good input so far.
 
Low-Blow said:
Would this hold true for the fuel pump as well?
Click to expand...
Fuel pumps are a lot easier to change than oil pumps so they are not as critical. Also understand duel carburetors may need an electric fuel pump to boost the flow. Personally I use electric pumps. If you replace the mechanical pump don't forget to plug the push rod hole.
 
I would say less oil control and more work while installing is all you get from using them.
I only use them if someone is really twisting my arm to do so...reusing the one piece guide with bronze liners is the best cost/performance if you ask me.
 
I wouldn't us a Mellings pump if was free. Plus the rebuild parts are made by Mellings as well. Just check the stock pump, that's all I use.
 
You must have a reason to change anything inside an engine. You have to know what the pat does and why it whould be changed. 2 piece guides are for .312 valves?? also if you change cams you might want to use chevy valves. There are reasons for this and a few dozen other things. You can use the 8BA rods with the Merc crank but you will have to get the assy balanced. You have allot of reading to do.
 
Why not think about doing your build post here on Fordbarn. Would be interesting to follow your progress, understand what you do and why, and see pictures of what you do along the way. The HAMB is good, but some members here, like me, only go there occasionally, and when I do, I really don't seem to navigate there that well, or even understand the format since the last round of changes that were made.
 
I agree about a build thread. Plus, the H.A.M.B. moves way to fast for an old guy like me. A new thread can move off the first page in less than an hour some days. It is literally like a full time job to keep up with everything going on there.
 
Thanks for the input, gentlemen. I asked about the valve guides because a friend of mine found some NOS at a swap meet. The price was right, so he picked them up. I will definitely move the build thread to this forum once it is started. The guy doing the machine work to the block has not had a chance to get to it yet. So, I am in a holding pattern for now.
 
Well, it has been almost a year since I have posted here. Life happens, you know! My wife and I sold our home and moved into a duplex; while we build our new home. In turn, I had to put a lot of things in storage until the new place is finished. Our storage unit was broken into a few months ago. They must have been ground keepers at a golf course, since they stole my clubs, my chainsaw, and my weedeater (along with some other tools). Luckily, they didn't touch any of the flathead parts!! In the past year, little progress has been made on the engine. This is not all bad, however, as I really don't have anywhere to put it for another couple of months. But, I was able to get the block vatted and magnafluxed. Turns out that the block is in very good condition. There were a couple of small cracks, but nothing in the seats or the cylinders. I have provided pics below.
 

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Here are a couple of more pics. One shows the 8 new exhaust seats, and the other shows the cylinders after being cleaned up. They cleaned up at about .015. So, a question that I have is should I have them bored to .020 or to .030? In all of my ignorance, my initial thought is less is better. But, I would think that availability and cost may also be a determining factor. Also, I need to get some input on pistons, since the engine machine shop needs them. Again, I am planning on building a cruiser and not a hot rod; 4" Crank, Cam, Dual Carbs, Stock EAB Heads. I'm not looking to build an $8K engine. Any input would be appreciated.
 

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If you are building a motor that you want power out of more displacement aint a bad thing...it´s almost a must if you want to get enough bottom end with a hotter camshaft.
If it was me i would go .125 oversize.
Why no hardseats on the intake ?
 
You will have to use the closest size to the cleaned up bore that you can get. Egge has Mercury type pistons for 4-inch stroke in a lot of over sizes. They are cast and 4-ring type but they worked OK for me.
 
Block prep ..open up the exhaust ports, intake , port match and transfer area. Drill for 90% oil flow etc etc ... Do this before boring+ machining. If you want that is ..
 
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