Rear Main Janitor

Made from .032" scrapped washing machine housing. Just waiting for the paint to dry and then mounted.


Regards
Bill
 

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BillCNC said:
Made from .032" scrapped washing machine housing. Just waiting for the paint to dry and then mounted.


Regards
Bill
Click to expand...

Good job. I noticed the one from Snyder's has a spring on the back to stabilize? it. I can see on mine it had the spring at one time but is long gone.

Like Y-Blockhead mentioned in post #3, I put a feminine napkin in it to absorb any oil. makes it easy to clean out, just change the napkin
 
When the oil is drained, how much is supposed to come out? Isn’t some held back in the oil pan dipper tray (not sure that’s the term).
Before you put in 4.5 quarts, what does the dipstick show?
 
That looks as good or better than the factory made one that I have . The metal that you used should have enough spring to hold it tight .
 
Thanks Guys,


The Master Cylinder

No spring needed. The tall wall that mounts to the flywheel housing has a -5°angle to it. It's nice and snug.

David in San Antonio

Oil fill up is 4.5 qts, draining is 4 qts. 5qts if you remove the oil pan. After my first oil change after I removed the pan, I put a hacksaw mark on the dipstick after I started, shut it off and let the oil go settle down for a few minutes.

figment

Yes, it is springy. I have to pull the wall back a little to get it on. Good thing because getting the inspection plate bolt is a real pain and both hands on the bolt head are needed so I cant hold the tray while installing it.


To All

If you have the metal, make your own. Save some money and have fun making at the same time. :cool:


Regards
Bill
 
Hey All,


When I started this thread I was asking for the dimensions to the rear main janitor the vendors sell and came up empty. I made a quick drawing from the one I made just in case anyone else that wants to try their hand at fabricating one for themselves. I have added a .jpg file to the original post.


Regards
Bill
 
The $34 Snyders janitor Y Blockhead (post 3) shows would cost about $80 here - that's how much freight etc costs us so I made my own with a removable tray so I could empty it easily.. They are so EASY to make that even at $34, I would do it.
 
After having checked my bearing clearances I followed the instructions as set out in the leak proof pan gasket replacement article . I no longer have drips from the front crank pulley or the rear main. Since then I have put 2000 miles on the engine and there are still no drips. So it is possible to have an engine that does not leak oil.The secret is the attention paid in replacing the oil pan gasket.
 
Not an answer to the leaks but to answer what little I know about dipper trays and dip sticks.The dipper tray will retain a small amount of oil,this is so when you could start it cold it picks up oil right now.Some people drill drain holes in them, DON"T DO THIS it might cause no oil in bearings when restarting a cold engine. It will be replaced with new oil while running,old oil does not stay in the tray but recycles when running. As long as oil is on 3/4 full and up on the dip stick you should be OK.
 
In Snyder's installation diagram I don't see the front radius rod, what gives w/that?
 
duke36 said:
Nice job Bill, just like the vendors without the pull handle.
Click to expand...
Thanks.


I built it with the tall wall to have a -5* angle so it clamps on. The pull handle thingy would just be in the way as it's already a pain to get that bolt in in the first place.


Regards
Bill
 
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