Rear Main Janitor

BillCNC

BillCNC

Well-known member
Hey All,

My A has started leaking oil at the rear main leaving drips in front of my customers house's. When I saw one of my customers cleaning my oil mess in the street in front of their house, I figured it's about time to get one.

I'm wanting to know if anyone has the dimensions to make one or could measure one for me. I went to buy one and saw they are $48.00 + shipping, ... NOT going to happen because it's soooo over priced. I saw in the threads here that in 2014, they were $19.95 and even with inflation, it should be $27.00, so I am forced too make one.

EDIT:
I have added a drawing for those that would like to make their own.


Regards
Bill
 

Attachments

  • Rear Main Janitor.jpg
    Rear Main Janitor.jpg
    25.1 KB · Views: 58
Last edited:
The least expensive solution is to park further down the road away from your customer's house.
 
Back in the 60's oil came in gallon tins (steel rectangular cans). I would cut the side out of one and wire it up under the engine. When it got half full I would pour the oil back into the engine. Back then people would give be perfectly good engines, no cost. So I was not worried about wrecking an engine from contaminated oil. Times have changed and now I fix the oil leaks and change the oil and filter as required.
 
I had a janitor but took it out because it rattled. Yeah, oil drips. That’s what cardboard and floor dry are for.

If it’s not dripping oil, you probably need to add some. We don’t need to expect EV level floor cleanliness from a 95 year old car.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
I put a feminine napkin in it to absorb the oil and change it once a month. Better than cleaning up drips.
Click to expand...

I envy you if the rear main is your only source of oil drips. Mine I have a shock leaking, steering sector shaft, and a bit of a weep from one rear axle housing as well. But at least since the engine rehab last year, no front main, oil pan or valve cover.
 
If you have a 95 year old friend, ask them if they have any leaks.

Be careful how you approach them though.

Enjoy
 
The oil leakage is due to a design deficiency. I have a concept as yet not tried to improve the oil drainage of the rear main beraing.
 

Attachments

  • Slide1.jpg
    Slide1.jpg
    78.8 KB · Views: 106
  • Slide2.jpg
    Slide2.jpg
    75 KB · Views: 100
Last edited:
I think using this drip pan is a bad idea, because it can mask a serious problem. :confused:

I had a rear main bearing fail last year. The rear main oil leak went from normal drips to a large puddle running down driveway. This increased leaking prompted me to investigate and discover the bad main bearing before more serious damage was done. Having a pan capture the leak could have hidden the problem until it was much worse and much more damage was done.

Think about that. :(
 
Fixing the leak would cost thousands which I don't currently have to rebuild the motor. When I opened her up to do the valves a couple years back, The pistons are .100" over and there are still scratches in the cylinder walls. I've been looking for a decent used motor for years with no luck. She's a daily driver.

I made a cardboard prototype to test out my pattern and it fits perfectly if I extend the wall that goes up to the flywheel housing bolt by 1.". I have a bunch of sheet metal that used to be washer and dryer housings that I'll use to make one up tonight after work.

Thanks to all who responded.

Regards
Bill
 

Attachments

  • 20250908_063844.jpg
    20250908_063844.jpg
    48 KB · Views: 61
  • 20250712_110847.jpg
    20250712_110847.jpg
    45.2 KB · Views: 53
I really like the idea of extending that drain tube in the oil pan to where it's next to the intake of the oil pump that would definitely help pull the oil away from the rear main!!!
 
BillCNC said:
Fixing the leak would cost thousands which I don't currently have to rebuild the motor. When I opened her up to do the valves a couple years back, The pistons are .100" over and there are still scratches in the cylinder walls. I've been looking for a decent used motor for years with no luck. She's a daily driver.

I made a cardboard prototype to test out my pattern and it fits perfectly if I extend the wall that goes up to the flywheel housing bolt by 1.". I have a bunch of sheet metal that used to be washer and dryer housings that I'll use to make one up tonight after work.

Thanks to all who responded.

Regards
Bill
Click to expand...

CAD - Cardboard aided design! :D
 
ModelA29 said:
Go farmer - bailing wire and a tin can.......
Click to expand...

A fellow once showed me one such installation made with wire and a large tuna can. He claimed that the genius of this farmer fix was that, at speeds over 25 MPH, air passing under the car caused the can to tilt downward and the accumulated oil dribbled out on the road.
 
Jim/GA said:
I think using this drip pan is a bad idea, because it can mask a serious problem. :confused:

I had a rear main bearing fail last year. The rear main oil leak went from normal drips to a large puddle running down driveway. This increased leaking prompted me to investigate and discover the bad main bearing before more serious damage was done. Having a pan capture the leak could have hidden the problem until it was much worse and much more damage was done.

Think about that. :(
Click to expand...

I hear what you are saying but if your rear main is leaking that bad it will not take long for the janitor to overflow. The janitor is only 1" deep.
 
I change the oil EVERY 500 miles, just about once a month to the day and I'm only draining 4qts so I'm dripping 1/2qt between oil changes. Not serious, but enough to the point that I don't want my customers cleaning up my oil mess. Today, I let them see me put an old pair of jeans under the car and I apologized to the customer for the mess.


Regards
Bill
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top