re-use head studs?

Kirby1374

Kirby1374

Senior Member
I need to change the head gasket on my 30 Tudor and was wondering if I can re-use the studs. Also (not to start and argument :D ) what gasket should I use? It has a copper one now. It is a stock compression head. Copper? other?
Thanks
 
You could stay with what you got, (studs) and use the same type headgasket. Its worked for how many years? Why do you have change your headgasket?
 
I started this engine recently. The condition unknown. It runs "ok" but at higher rpm foams up the radiator water, the gasket seeps around the perimeter and when pulling plug wires off to see which one are firing all sparked but cylinder 1 an 2 didn't make much difference in the running. pulling either 3 or 4 and it about dies. I think my gasket is compromised between 1 an 2. I want to pull the head for a look anyway as well.
 
Do you want the easy way or the hard way?
Easy way Keep it simple, off with head, replace old gasket with best quality new one , bolt it together, try it. Have a beer. retorque after 500 miles have another beer.
Hard way off with head, get head planed level or buy new head , remove studs, breaking some in the process, drill out remains of studs and replace with new ones etc , fit with new best quality gasket, bolt it together. Have beer, miss some days on the road and think it might have been better to get someone else to do it, re-torque head after 500 miles. check bank balance have a whisky.
 
You should use a screwdriver to short the plugs, rather than remove the plug wires for this engine check. When the spark has no place to go it tries to short the coil internally or at the coil tower. BOTH BAD! Once a spark path has been established at the tower, the insulating properties have been greatly diminished.

Do a compression check before pulling the head. If it's low on any cylinders, then inject compressed air to see where it's escaping. Listen for a leaking intake valve at the carb, exhaust valve at the tail pipe, or rings at the oil filler. You need to get the piston TDC on the firing stroke for this test.

Also use a vaccum guage to check the engine while idleing and running at higher speeds. You may have a sticking and slow to close valve.
 
Tom,
Can you explain why "you need to get the piston TDC on the firing stroke for this test."? I guess I'm trying to ask what test are you doing with the need for the above.
Thanks for your time.
Joe Grobleski
Cape Cod
 
Cape Codder said:
Tom,
Can you explain why "you need to get the piston TDC on the firing stroke for this test."? I guess I'm trying to ask what test are you doing with the need for the above.
Thanks for your time.
Joe Grobleski
Cape Cod
Click to expand...

In any other piston position the compressed air will push the piston down, and in the down position a valve will be open.
 
johnbuckley said:
Do you want the easy way or the hard way?
Easy way Keep it simple, off with head, replace old gasket with best quality new one , bolt it together, try it. Have a beer. retorque after 500 miles have another beer.
Hard way off with head, get head planed level or buy new head , remove studs, breaking some in the process, drill out remains of studs and replace with new ones etc , fit with new best quality gasket, bolt it together. Have beer, miss some days on the road and think it might have been better to get someone else to do it, re-torque head after 500 miles. check bank balance have a whisky.
Click to expand...

hahahahahaha thanks John for the encouragement :D
 
kirby,
Same symptoms with my 29. #4-3 fired well but 1-2 missed when shorting out the plugs. No gasket problem but when I pulled the head, I found exaust valves carboned up. I redid the valves and adjusted them, new gasket and runs great.
 
Does the foaming in the radiator indicate a likely leaking head gasket and not valves? Anyway, do what Tom said. You want to pin down what it is if possible before you pull the head.
 
Mitch said:
Does the foaming in the radiator indicate a likely leaking head gasket and not valves? Anyway, do what Tom said. You want to pin down what it is if possible before you pull the head.
Click to expand...

Thanks for reminding me. I was thinking of it as I was typing, but forgot to put it down. While doing the compressed air check, also fill the radiator and look for air bubbles.
 
I removed the head and the studs came out easy. The previous person used never seize! I couldn't really see anywhere that the head gasket had failed. I ground the valves and adjusted them while the head was off. I had a bad exhaust valve in cylinder 2. I replaced it with a used good one from my extra engine.

My head gasket comes today; I have heard some people say to grease the gasket? Others to use copper coat?
What are your guy's opinion?
Thanks
 
If i was to go thru all that work . Head off, new gasket, I would order a snyder 5.5 hc head and install it. Same amount of work , But better results
Just my 2 cents :)
 
I have always greased the copper gaskets. I have had very good luck with the newer Fel-Pro gaskets.
 
TinCup said:
I have always greased the copper gaskets. I have had very good luck with the newer Fel-Pro gaskets.
Click to expand...

thanks, I was asking for gasket recommendations earlier and the response was "how long did the copper one last that you are replacing" and then something about it being good enough then so it should be now. :rolleyes:

I bought a copper one and it arrived today. I will probably grease it then.
 
Since your question about studs may not have been answered; yes, you can reuse the studs. If you decide to install a higher compression head, such as Snyder's 5.5 : 1, then it is suggested (I believe required) to install new grade 8 studs. The reason is that the Snyder's head is torqued to 65 foot pounds whereas the original stock head is torqued to 55 foot pounds. Whichever head and gasket combination you use, re torque the nuts (cold) frequently since the gasket will compress. I suggest the first re torque should be after no more than 100 miles. Gar Williams
 
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