Radius Ball on Wishbone Question

If you have the rubber ball, it means that the steel ball inside has been worn down and no longer fits snugly in the original style cap. You can't simply switch back to the original, you need to solve the problem. You can:
- replace the entire front wishbone
- cut off and replace the ball
- remove the rubber ball and try using a shim washer to take up the gap
 
alexiskai, I measured the ball and it is within .008 of being perfectly round. I don't know why the rubber ball was added with the ball being so good. Please answer my questions in my initial post. When I place the new parts around the ball it fits very well and there is about a 1/8" gap between the two parts. The kit comes with a spacer but I don't think I need it.
 

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johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
alexiskai, I measured the ball and it is within .008 of being perfectly round. I don't know why the rubber ball was added with the ball being so good. Please answer my questions in my initial post.
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Round, yes. But is it the proper diameter? My recollection is that this is a 1.5” sphere. If you are say 1.500” x 1.492” then I’d install it with the original steel cups, well lubricated at assembly. That’s about as close to “round” as you are going to get with a forging. Btw, I’d kill to have a wishbone with a radius ball with those dimensions. I’ve had to apply weld material and then grind to get balls back round.

The felt goes inside of the housing between the posts and underneath the cross rod that keeps the posts from turning. Unless you have the housing off the engine you can’t get to it to replace it, although I suppose you could try cramming it up through the hole in the housing (I’ve not attempted that).
 
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The 1/8"gap is within spec between the top and bottom halves when tightened up with the steel spacers around the bolts. Grease it well and go for it. Some folks add the rubber thinking it cushions the movement.Omit the rubber ball.Oil will leak down to the felt eventually and seep thru the hole in the top half section.
 
The original cap & ball set up lasts very well and it holds better over time. The rubber deteriorates and allows unacceptable movement over time. Use the rubber liner if you want but it's not a better product. It was more of a band aid for worn parts.
 
the felt goes inside the bell housing above the ball.

normally oil will deteriorate rubber the two don't go together very well the original way would be better if you can manage it. i suspect either way will outlast you.
 
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The felt goes inside of the housing between the posts and underneath the cross rod that keeps the posts from turning. Unless you have the housing off the engine you can’t get to it to replace it, although I suppose you could try cramming it up through the hole in the housing (I’ve not attempted that).
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I have done the "reversion" indicated.


You need to remove everything of the original cap including the rubber ball, the two caps AND the two bolts that hold it.


New bolts need to be "fitted" as in you place the bolts, then you see if you can get the cross-bar keeper in place through the slots in the "heads" of the bolts. More than likely the slots are too shallow. So you take them out and using a narrow wheel, you grind the slots deeper. You can try bending the pin in a "hump" which might be enough to make the pin fit the slots.


Putting the pins in and out is a job for a pair of long forceps. Mine are 14" long and the bend end beyond the hinge is about 5 inches. You reach up into the hole, work to the side, then snag the head and lift up until the bolt is loose. Then back everything out of the hole.


When you're finally satisfied you can assemble the bolts/pins THEN you place the sponge rubber/felt whatever using the forceps similarly. You kind of roll the sponge/felt up, stuff it in the hole, unroll it, then use the forceps to "feed" it under the cross pin.


With everything in place, THEN you put on the upper shell, then the ball is placed, then the lower shell. There may be a couple of springs or sleeves here too - follow the assembly directions that come with the kit.


Bolted together and in place you're left with a setup which has capability of movement, but a degree of restraint.


Sort of like the rubber/caps.


Joe K
 
The felt goes inside of the housing between the posts and underneath the cross rod that keeps the posts from turning. Unless you have the housing off the engine you can’t get to it to replace it, although I suppose you could try cramming it up through the hole in the housing (I’ve not attempted that).
Click to expand...
I have done the "reversion" indicated.

You need to remove everything of the original cap including the rubber ball, the two caps AND the two bolts that hold it.

New bolts need to be "fitted" as in you place the bolts, then you see if you can get the cross-bar keeper in place through the slots in the "heads" of the bolts. More than likely the slots are too shallow. So you take the bolts out and using a narrow wheel, you grind the slots deeper. You can try bending the pin in a "hump" which might be enough to make the pin fit the slots.

Putting the bolts in and out is a job for a pair of long forceps. Mine are 14" long and the bend end beyond the hinge is about 5 inches. You reach up into the hole, work to the side, then snag the head and lift up until the bolt is loose. Then back everything down and out of the hole.

When you're finally satisfied you can assemble the bolts/pins and have done so THEN you place the sponge rubber/felt whatever using the forceps similarly. You kind of roll the sponge/felt up, stuff it in the hole, unroll it, then use the forceps to "feed" it under the cross pin.

With everything in place, THEN you put on the upper shell, then the ball is placed, then the lower shell. There may be a couple of springs or sleeves here too - follow the assembly directions that come with the kit.

Bolted together and in place you're left with a setup which has capability of movement, but a degree of restraint.

Sort of like the rubber/caps. (ha, HA!)

Joe K
 
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Do you think I should replace the felt. It looks good. Looking at all the information herein, it looks like replacing the felt is difficult. Also, as you can see, the studs appear long enough, so I shouldn't need to replace them, correct?. How far do I screw the nuts in? In the picture you can see that the spring is almost completly compressed and I haven't tightened the bolts all the way. Should I put axle greese on the ball? Also, there is a sizable gap between the upper shell and the lower shell and I didn't install the spacer that came with the kit, is that appropriate?
 

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johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
Do you think I should replace the felt. It looks good. Looking at all the information herein, it looks like replacing the felt is difficult. Also, as you can see, the studs appear long enough, so I shouldn't need to replace them, correct?. How far do I screw the nuts in? In the picture you can see that the spring is almost completly compressed and I haven't tightened the bolts all the way. Should I put axle greese on the ball? Also, there is a sizable gap between the upper shell and the lower shell and I didn't install the spacer that came with the kit, is that appropriate?
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johnr9q@yahoo.com said:
Service bulletin says to use "Cup Grease", what is a substitute for that?
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Any semi-solid grease such as would be used in a "screw down top" grease cup.


Google AI explains it more accurately than I.


Cup grease, traditionally a calcium-soap-based, water-resistant lubricant used in screw-down cups for older machinery, is best replaced by modern, multi-purpose, medium-weight greases
. Suitable modern equivalents include calcium-soap grease (e.g., Lubriplate 105/130AA), general-purpose lithium grease, orNLGI #2 grease, which provide superior stability and protection.
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The grease of my familiarity would be the No. 2 above, which for me comes in a plain pint paint can.


Joe K
 
I've run into most problems associated with the radius rod ball joint assembly. The most common problem is deterioration of the bolt counter bores where the head seats. They like to wear out. I have been fortunate that they tend to wear evenly on both sides. This allowed me to get spacers to use under the bolt heads and put the heads back up to where the pin will still retain them from turning. This defect, if present, causes the bolts to be loose and protrude too far which just compounds the problem.

The other issue is lubrication. While the felt pad will hold oil for a while, it doesn't seem to last all that long in practice until the rear main starts to leak more. I drop the ball down a bit now and then and apply grease to the components. This seems to work a lot better in the long run. A person can pull the pin and squirt oil in there to wet the pad if they choose to use oil in there as Ford intended. I do a little bit of both but just remember not to mess with the bolts until the pin is back in there.
 
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