Radiator

37 Cab

37 Cab

Well-known member
So I got my carb issues taken care of so now to think about the radiator in my 37. It is running hot at anything above 50 mph. The faster I go the hotter it gets. 200-210. 185 at 50. I believe the rad to be original? It has the cap in the middle of the top tank and very stiff fins that run across the width. All the aftermarket ones I have seen use a modern Z style fin set up. Both tanks are leaking an I suspect it is clogged.
I need some input here.. Should I try to save the rad I have or go for a new one. Not interested in having a 100 point car. Also.. I think the restoration was done maybe 30 years ago. Was a better pump available that far back? I will look at them when I get the rad out but if you guys think I should update them I will.
Thanks in advance..
Tommy
 
I'd have a new core installed and send the pumps to Skip Haney in FL for a rebuild. Maybe not the cheapest route but IMO well worth it in the long run.
 
try this, drain the antifreeze water combo, take out the thermostats and fill the cooling system with cheap vineger, run it thru four or five heat cycles,( hot/cold) flush several times, add about a lb of baking soda mixed with water to neutralize any remaining vineger, flush engine/rad again. you will not believe what comes out, had to do a brand x car twice to clean it out. get skips water pump rebuilds and follow his directions as to water/antifreeze, etc
 
Get the radiator rodded out! I just had one done on my 38 standard,(88 bucks in Cincinnati),the man said he got a ton of crap out of it. (New Bob drake pumps 99.00), runs cool as a cucumber.
 
If both top and bottom tanks are leaking, the radiator probably needs to come out anyway. Have a good radiator shop look at rodding vs. recoring the original. Determine that cost vs. getting a new radiator from someone like Brassworks.
Regarding water pumps...have a set of original '37-'48 pump cores rebuilt by Skip Haney in Punta Gorda, Fl.
 
If the radiator is the original you will most likely need a new one. When I took two originals in for my 45 pickup the radiator guy took one look and said "you'll need a new one, they're too rotten to rod out or re-core". I bought a new aluminum import one off E-bay and am very satisfied with it. I've heard that some guys have had bad luck with the imported ones but, the one I got looks well made and works great.
 
Just be mindful that the inlet pipes are different for the trucks. At least they are on my 39 PU vs cars.

The affordable reproduction units are generally for cars. This may make keeping the tanks essential.

Like other have said, a radiator shop can help determine. However - I went to one and was told I needed a new core. Then I went to one recommended by a couple of local rodders and was told I needed a boiling and 3 or 4 tubes pinched off.

$90 bucks out the door and doing fine so far.
 
Had the same problem, installed a Walker Z radiator, problem solved. Perfect fit as the original, Zeke:)
 
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Tommy, you have a pretty wide range of answers here. The best and most valid being that from JM 35 Sedan. The tanks for sure are worth saving, no matter how beat up they may be. A recore to those tanks should be your first choice if the original core is beyond rodding out. Brassworks, in my opinion, is way too pricy, and aluminum is temporary and less efficient than is brass. The name Skip Haney will be recomended for more than just water pumps in your future, so might as well establish your relationship with him now.
 
After all the discussion on radiators I hate to ask, any chance there is another problem (like distributor timing/advance)?

Charlie Stephens
 
I'm with Charlie on this as I went through similar situation with my 21 stud 34.
Skips pumps & check valve & played with the timing & runs cool .
I also had a F-500 dump truck with a 223 in it. Took it into the radiator shop to have some soldering done on the top tank. He said the core was just about toast & I should get a replacement core, but it was still doing fine when I sold it 20 years later.
 
I got into the cooling issues.. Here is what I found. The coolant was black and almost thick. very acidic. The insides of the motor are like brand new cast iron. Whatever it is,,(I suspect 100% antifreeze) Maybe some electrolysis sp? It has worked on the solder joints on the radiator and served as a very good cleaner.
The radiator that came out does have a pressure cap on it and looks pretty clean inside but I am replacing it and the water pumps anyway. I have it all flushed out and am going back together. Anyone need a 37-39 radiator?
here are a couple pics of where I am at. Any suggestions before I button it back up?
IMG_0075.jpg

IMG_0077.jpg

IMG_0078.jpg

IMG_0083.jpg
 
Charlie Stephens said:
After all the discussion on radiators I hate to ask, any chance there is another problem (like distributor timing/advance)?

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing Charlie. Could be running too retarded and making it hot. But since the radiator is already leaking I would start there.
 
I got it back together today with new pumps and radiator. Problem solved but I am thinking it was mainly caused by the coolant itself, but as stated, the rad was leaking anyway. In fact, I need to put some thermostats in it now. They go in the hose? Anyone have a picture of that?
 
37 Cab said:
So I got my carb issues taken care of so now to think about the radiator in my 37. It is running hot at anything above 50 mph. The faster I go the hotter it gets. 200-210. 185 at 50. I believe the rad to be original? It has the cap in the middle of the top tank and very stiff fins that run across the width. All the aftermarket ones I have seen use a modern Z style fin set up. Both tanks are leaking an I suspect it is clogged.
I need some input here.. Should I try to save the rad I have or go for a new one. Not interested in having a 100 point car. Also.. I think the restoration was done maybe 30 years ago. Was a better pump available that far back? I will look at them when I get the rad out but if you guys think I should update them I will.
Thanks in advance..
Tommy
Click to expand...

37, The original fins are punched out and somewhat press over the tubes. This doesn't make real good contact between the two and as times go's on paint, dirt and corrosion insulates them from each other. The newer Z type fins are soldered to the tubes and transfer the heat from the tubes better. I would go with a new core or radiator. G.M.
 
My 38 has trouble getting to 180 degrees. I had the radiator cleaned and replaced the water pumps. Rodded (by hand) the water jackets. I removed several coffee cans full of debris. I use 160 stats with a vent hole. I glued them to the top of the water outlets on the heads. I use both gauges...stock Henry and new mechanical SW. g
 
ford38v8 said:
Tommy, you have a pretty wide range of answers here. The best and most valid being that from JM 35 Sedan. The tanks for sure are worth saving, no matter how beat up they may be. A recore to those tanks should be your first choice if the original core is beyond rodding out. Brassworks, in my opinion, is way too pricy, and aluminum is temporary and less efficient than is brass. The name Skip Haney will be recomended for more than just water pumps in your future, so might as well establish your relationship with him now.
Click to expand...

We hear your criticism about our radiators being "way to pricey" and for this day only we will price match. Tomorrow we'll reduce them again to our normal pricing. :)
pricematch.jpg
pricematch.html
 
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