Radiator hose

The dielectric grease available at most stores says it's a silicon formulation. Is this stuff what is being referenced to help seal and lubricate the hose ?
 
FWIW: While on the Radiator Hose Subject:

1. With hoses absorbing coolant heat, after some time, the tightly clamped heated rubber hoses tend to stick quite well to the metal connections, especially a slightly rusted cast iron Model A goose neck.

2. Upon hose removal, many unlubricated hoses have to be pried off with screw drivers, become overly stressed, and very possibly damaged and replaced to avoid leaks when not lubricated.

3. Then, on a relevant radiator hose subject, it is always a good idea to place a filter in the top Model A radiator hose to trap loose cast iron rust flakes and prevent same from clogging the small radiator tubes.

4. A "permanent" stainless steel bag type filter designed for use on the water discharge of washing machines, (wrapped around, for example, a smaller 1947 Farmall Cub tractor water hose to hold the SS filter in place), works great. Socks, stockings, and ferrous filters work, but will not last as long and "if" they break are a total waste of time, socks & stockings.

5. Next, always a good idea to clean out filter trapped cast iron rust flakes every now and then.

6. With new "lubricated" hoses, (which slide off easily and are never over stressed), "new" radiator hoses should last as long as a Model A "new" set of L & B Model A seat covers.

7. And if one uses distilled water or rain water with a 50/50 mix or so of anti-freeze with radiator protective chemicals in a "new" or "cleaned vintage" radiator, this radiator with a SS hose filter should last as long as a non-destructible spare Model A flywheel sitting in your shop.

Hope this helps next time anyone looks at his "new" Model A radiator hoses.
 
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