Questions on frame paint

B

BashawT

Senior Member
Hey guys I have searched for this topic but have been unable to find a direct answer to my question.
I am searching for the right paint to use on my frame. I have been looking into chassis saver, por15 and a few others and I am really undecided as of right now. I plan on getting the frame sandblasted and then spraying it with an epoxy or etch primer before applying a topcoat. I know some of the paints say you can paint right over the rust and I hate the idea of that. I am by no means building a points car but I don't want to see rust showing up down the road.

If anyone has any suggestions or any other products or procedures they have used I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks everyone!

-Travis
 
After you sandblast the frame you can spray DP-90 on it and it will look great and be protected. If you want to paint over the DP-90 then you could use DCC 9000 with some flatner, so the end result looks the same as Marco's frame.

I don't like POR 15 and wouldn't use it on my frame.
 
Depends on what your final result is to look like?? Don't put POR directly over the frame even though they may say you can; don't do it. But tell us what you want in the end and I'll have a plan for you.
 
PetesPonies said:
Depends on what your final result is to look like?? Don't put POR directly over the frame even though they may say you can; don't do it. But tell us what you want in the end and I'll have a plan for you.
Click to expand...

I would like something that is close to original with good protection and longevity. I don't want to have to worry about any rust forming down the road.
 
For just the bare frame 1 quart would be plenty, but are you also going to blast and paint each spring leaf, axle tubes, brake rods, steering, and all the other chassis parts?
 
I use John Deere Blitz Black tractor frame paint. Dries fast to a nice smooth finish. Comes in gallons, quarts, pints, and spray cans. The body of the VW in my avatar is painted with it. $92.00 paint & materials;).

Joe,,,,
 
There are a number of answers to this question which I ask a while ago.

A number of show cars have Rustoluem brush painted semi gloss black. At least that is what people indicated. I tested it and it takes a long time to get real hard.

There are several top coat chassis (semi gloss) blacks on the market. This would require sealing with epoxy for best results.

I choose to paint with SPI black epoxy. While epoxy is not UV stable, the frame does not see much sunlight. You can use any number (PPG, Dupont etc) of black epoxy's and they all seem to have a semi gloss sheen.

If you are going for points you may have to think a bit more about what you want to do.
 
If you check with the paint store, I bet you will find that a gallon of primer/paint will only cost about twice the price of a quart. That is like getting over a quart for free. A complete chassis, frame, axles etc., will take a full gallon if it is completely disassembled and you do it piece by piece. Just a frame will take at least a quart for good coverage. I use a siphon gun. A HVLP gun might take slightly less due to less over spray.
 
I am having my frame blasted and sprayed with an epoxy primer. After filling any small pits and sanding, I plan on using the Eastwood semi-gloss black Extreme Chassis Paint. I am not looking for a points car, but one that will be a very good restoration. I like the Eastwood because I can order it on line, have it delivered via UPS in a couple days, and it is available in aerosol cans, quarts and gallons. Any thoughts or opinions would be gratefully accepted! Dan
 
Hirsch Automotive makes a really nice chassis black that we used on the Model A Times roadster pick up. It is military grade and flows very nicely. They also make the Ford engine green in case you need that too.
 
rusted said:
Why not use POR 15 on a frame?
Click to expand...

After reading other peoples comments I agree that it will let the metal rust from under the coating. Also I don't like the looks of it. It has a too thick dull look.

I assembled a guy's rear end that was painted with Eastwoods chassis paint and it came right off under the bolt heads as I tightened them. I think the DP-90 and DCC 9000 are the best I have used so far and I only want to do the chassis once and use the best. I'm no bodyman, but that's my limited experience.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
After reading other peoples comments I agree that it will let the metal rust from under the coating. Also I don't like the looks of it. It has a too thick dull look.

I assembled a guy's rear end that was painted with Eastwoods chassis paint and it came right off under the bolt heads as I tightened them. I think the DP-90 and DCC 9000 are the best I have used so far and I only want to do the chassis once and use the best. I'm no bodyman, but that's my limited experience.
Click to expand...


I agree with Tom, that POR15 stuff sucks:mad:. Just clean it, rattle can it, & be done with it. Nobody & I mean nobody is going to get under your car & judge your paint work, nobody! Save your $$$$$ for the important stuff:).

Joe,,,
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
After reading other peoples comments I agree that it will let the metal rust from under the coating. Also I don't like the looks of it. It has a too thick dull look.

I assembled a guy's rear end that was painted with Eastwoods chassis paint and it came right off under the bolt heads as I tightened them. I think the DP-90 and DCC 9000 are the best I have used so far and I only want to do the chassis once and use the best. I'm no bodyman, but that's my limited experience.
Click to expand...

Tom,
If I were to go with the dp-90 and Dcc-9000 how much do you think I would need to do the frame and all parts? I agree on doing it once and using the best.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
I assembled a guy's rear end that was painted with Eastwoods chassis paint and it came right off under the bolt heads as I tightened them. I think the DP-90 and DCC 9000 are the best I have used so far and I only want to do the chassis once and use the best. I'm no bodyman, but that's my limited experience.
Click to expand...

I painted lots of chassis and drivetrain parts with rattle-can Eastwood gloss Extreme Chassis Black over their own primer, and I had no adhesion problems, even on things like body bolts that got wrenches applied to them. The stuff will cure much faster if you give it a one-hour bake after several hours of air drying.

But I primed some parts with DPLF and topcoated with the Chassis Black, and that combination had terrible adhesion.

Doug
 
BashawT said:
Tom,
If I were to go with the dp-90 and Dcc-9000 how much do you think I would need to do the frame and all parts? I agree on doing it once and using the best.
Click to expand...

I don't know as I only paint a few parts at a time and keep going back to buy a quart of paint and the hardners and thinners as I need them. You'll be money ahead to just buy a gallon to start with if you plan to do all the parts within a year or so. Remember the splash aprons, running boards, and fenders are also black, so you'll have no problem using up that gallon of paint.
 
I used tremclad primer and tremclad black over 15 yrs ago and it is still as good as new,mind you I am still slowly restoring this car but it has sat in a shed all this time, not one speck of rust coming thru. 9 was sandblasted prior to paint
 
OK here's my plan for you. First, after getting the frame back from blasting or sanding whatever you do to it, first step is to paint it with Master Series primer. Apply two coats./ It can be sprayed or brushed. If you brush it,most if not all of the brush marks will go away. Then top coat it with whatever paint you choose. You can use lacquer, or enamel that has been flattened slightly. You can use single stage urethane with a flattener added or even BC/CC with a flattened clear. This all assumes you want less than a full gloss. You could even spray can paint it if that is all you can do. The key is using the Master Series first. You will have no rust problems at all, none.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top