Push button starter - 1948 Ford Tudor Sedan

If you used the Ignitor I unit and a coil with at least 1.5 ohms between the two screw terminals, you don't need a resistor. You can use a resistor, but Pertronix told me that it might give less performance at higher RPMs, something most of us flathead owners needn't worry about. The upscale Pertronix units can use coils with less resistance. So, which pertronix and coil you have will determine your need for a resistor.
 
Just checked and I had a loose connection that was causing the heating and starting issue. It fires right up now sinc everything is tight. Thanks again everyone for the help. You all have saved me multiple times on this restoration. Given this car was built 40 years prior to me being born, this has been a awesome but sometimes frustrating learning curve.
 
It could be hot just from having the ignition for a long time without running. Never a good thing to do.

If troubleshooting anything electrical and you need the ignition on, just disconnect the coil until you are ready to run the motor.

Mart.
 
You changed the car's polarity and unless you reverse the solenoid coil wiring, the solenoid contacts will be pushed away from start position instead of pulling into start position.


While AC solenoids aren't sensitive to polarity DC solenoids (aka relays) require proper polarity to work. Think bar magnets and how they work. DC voltage at the solenoid coil only works one way.


See retraction below
 
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^^ I'm not sure, but this statement does not match my experience. On my 33 I used a metal bodied solenoid that was fitted in the 50s and was the same as the one on my 40. On my 41 pu I used the existing solenoid. They both work fine on 12V neg ground. Back in the day I changed polarity on many cars and did not have to change the solenoid.

Mart.
 
Paul Bennett said:
You changed the car's polarity and unless you reverse the solenoid coil wiring, the solenoid contacts will be pushed away from start position instead of pulling into start position.


While AC solenoids aren't sensitive to polarity DC solenoids (aka relays) require proper polarity to work. Think bar magnets and how they work. DC voltage at the solenoid coil only works one way.
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For over 20 years, I have been running my original (6 volt positive ground) solenoid on ( 12 volt negative ground) without any of the symptoms that you seem to think will happen.
 
I have an engine test stand that has the capability of running 6 volts positive ground as well as 12 volts negative ground. It uses one solenoid for both. It is a generic 12 volt unit from NAPA and works perfectly under both configurations.
 
tubman said:
I have an engine test stand that has the capability of running 6 volts positive ground as well as 12 volts negative ground. It uses one solenoid for both. It is a generic 12 volt unit from NAPA and works perfectly under both configurations.
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Sure hope that this doesn't start a run of those who want to know how to convert their 6 volt "engine test stands" to 12 volts. :eek:
 
34PKUP said:
Sure hope that this doesn't start a run of those who want to know how to convert their 6 volt "engine test stands" to 12 volts. :eek:
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I'm with you on this. Given the difference in polarity, this task was a lot more complicated than I first thought.
 
51 MERC-CT said:
For over 20 years, I have been running my original (6 volt positive ground) solenoid on ( 12 volt negative ground) without any of the symptoms that you seem to think will happen.
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I was in error and offer no excuse. The steel actuator will move INTO the coil regardless of the polarity of the voltage applied.

There is a small difference in release time which depends on polarity, but it is of no consequence in this application.

I should have known better given the number of relays which I've added to cars to improve various functions such as headlight brightness and window speed...and in no case did I pay attention to polarity. Mea Culpa
 
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