Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

Synchro909 said:
Art, I bet you had a smile a mile wide when it fired and ran.
I noticed that you don't have a clutch fitted. Normally, the final balance of the crankshaft is done with flywheel and pressure plate fitted. What are your plans here?
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That flywheel cover and flywheel won't go in the car, I'll use the ones that are in the car now, although I have to admit that the one on the test engine looks really good, no heat checking that I can see. I have a new clutch and pressure plate to go in as well. My plan is to run all that on the stand, I'll play with "clocking" the flywheel and pressure plate to get the smoothest run.
 
It was run about 25 minutes total today, I want to let it completely cool down then I'll re-torque the head. So far there had been not a drop of oil leak out of the pan... :) Only bad thing so far is the head has a pin-hole leak right through that casting .75 inch above head gasket. There is a pretty good divot from rust right in that spot. Probably a good candidate for a JB Weld patch... or maybe a new 5.5 head?:D
 

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Personally i wouldnt have run it that much with no rad... temp gun or no temp gun....dont take it personally thats just my opinion. Put a head on it ..dont play with putty or half *** fixes again JMO..
It wouldnt take much to set a rad onto it , then you can really run it long / test
 
For those of us without a lot of spare A parts, and that don't anticipate needing to test several A engines, I've used hose couplings to the inlet and outlet and run water in from a hose bib. The thermostat keeps the engine at operating temp for longer tests. On an A with no stat, you can regulate the water flow to do the same.

Here's an aluminum 215 Buick I did this way recently...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jBGMO50Kjc
 
C26Pinelake said:
with 42 of your own posts on this thread you had time to rebuild the engine yourself ( lol ) ! Wayne
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5775 posts... hmmmm

I like to share what I am learning, hopefully others may learn something too. It does take a little extra effort to photograph/video this stuff but I enjoy it. Even if it doesn't turn out well, it's learning never-the-less.
 
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Dick Steinkamp said:
For those of us without a lot of spare A parts, and that don't anticipate needing to test several A engines, I've used hose couplings to the inlet and outlet and run water in from a hose bib. The thermostat keeps the engine at operating temp for longer tests. On an A with no stat, you can regulate the water flow to do the same.

Here's an aluminum 215 Buick I did this way recently...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jBGMO50Kjc
Click to expand...

With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure... use a fire hydrant with a fire hose then were talking...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy
 
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Mitch//pa said:
With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy
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I've run several motors this way for quite a while. I check all areas often with my laser thermometer. No hot spots.

Sorry this method hasn't worked for you. It could be we are doing it differently is some regard.
 
Art Newland said:
That flywheel cover and flywheel won't go in the car, I'll use the ones that are in the car now, although I have to admit that the one on the test engine looks really good, no heat checking that I can see. I have a new clutch and pressure plate to go in as well. My plan is to run all that on the stand, I'll play with "clocking" the flywheel and pressure plate to get the smoothest run.
Click to expand...

So neither the flywheel not the pressure plate will be balanced on the crank when it goes into a car? You might get lucky.
As for JB weld over that hole in the head, I imagine standard heads are very cheap over there and plentiful. I'd go that way or as you say, a new 5.5 head. A friend of mine over here had a crack in the water jacket of his motor. He soldered it up with ordinary 50/50 lead/tin solder. The trick was getting the cast iron tinned.
 
Mitch//pa said:
With alll due respect your not going to keep the block and head / heads full and prevent hot spots internally with a 5/8th garden hose using house pressure...
this is my last comment on this

Art your motor sounds great on the video enjoy
Click to expand...

What can I say, I'm a shade tree mechanic!:) Maybe I'll find an old usable radiator some day, wouldn't be tough to weld up a bracket, if you look at the front of my engine stand, you'll see some metal on the front, that was put there just for that possibility. Would be fun to have it setup with a generator on it as well. I try to seek out good information, but in the end I really like to see for myself. I really like for folks to see that if they wanted to do some of this kind of work, it's possible.
 
Art Newland said:
What can I say, I'm a shade tree mechanic!:) Maybe I'll find an old usable radiator some day, wouldn't be tough to weld up a bracket, if you look at the front of my engine stand, you'll see some metal on the front, that was put there just for that possibility. Would be fun to have it setup with a generator on it as well. I try to seek out good information, but in the end I really like to see for myself. I really like for folks to see that if they wanted to do some of this kind of work, it's possible.
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You could easily set up a modern plastic radiator to it .. they cost around 89.00 new

And then when ur done with it return it:eek::D
 
Synchro909 said:
So neither the flywheel not the pressure plate will be balanced on the crank when it goes into a car? You might get lucky.
As for JB weld over that hole in the head, I imagine standard heads are very cheap over there and plentiful. I'd go that way or as you say, a new 5.5 head. A friend of mine over here had a crack in the water jacket of his motor. He soldered it up with ordinary 50/50 lead/tin solder. The trick was getting the cast iron tinned.
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There is already a flywheel and clutch in the car, that works AOK. Now true it won't be balanced as a crank/flywheel/pressure plate assembly to this engine, I'll get it as close as I can. Remember, this is a engine to get me by while the original gets rebuilt, I'll have the flywheel/pressure plate balanced on that engine.

Well, good Model A heads are hard to find. Dick and I went searching for his, we dug through a pile of 10-15 heads and found only one that didn't have the cracking between cooling jacket holes. I am pretty good at soldering and silver brazing, maybe I'll give it a try.
 
Mitch//pa said:
You could easily set up a modern plastic radiator to it .. they cost around 89.00 new

And then when ur done with it return it:eek::D
Click to expand...

Actually that's a good idea, not the returning part:) but something from a junkyard maybe. I wonder what might have similar hose size and spacing?
 
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