Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

Tom Wesenberg said:
After honing how did you clean the cylinders?
I like to spray them with gas from my syphon sprayer, then oil them and wipe them with a clean white paper towel, then repeat until the paper towels come out clean.
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I'm working in your average two car attached garage with a gas water heater, so spraying gasoline around really isn't an option.:eek: I ran the hone with the engine crank pulley pointed up, cylinders slightly tilted down to keep the gunk from running into the crankcase, then flipped with cylinders pointed down I hosed in some WD-40 and wiped down with heavy (blue) shop style paper towels. Will have to do...
 
rer_239 said:
do you plan to have the bare block "dipped" to clean out the water passages?
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No bare block planned for this engine in the near future. This engine has obviously had some attention and the water jacket has been "worked over" some. I might take another crack at it with an old speedo cable in a drill before I put the head on. I'm hoping to run this engine on a stand and will flush it out well then.
 
Just wanted to share a quick video of how easy and smooth the crank is turning. All I really did was clean things up and added a little assembly lube from CRC. All the mains had 4 shims totaling .0075 each side, the front had three on one side and one on the other where-as the others had two on each side. So when I checked the clearance I moved one over so it had two on each side like the others... just seemed logical. Anyway the clearance was spot on and it turns smooth as a fresh jar of Skippy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edUwzJfn7F0&feature=youtu.be
 
I'd scrub the cylinder walls with dish washing detergent and wipe till clean on a white paper towel then W-D40 or oil the bores, this gets all that junk outta the crosshatch
 
goodoldvic said:
I'd scrub the cylinder walls with dish washing detergent and wipe till clean on a white paper towel then W-D40 or oil the bores, this gets all that junk outta the crosshatch
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Ditto, and you'll be surprised at how much junk will be lifted by the WD-40 or engine oil in the cylinders.
 
I couldn't ignore a double-ditto. 8^)
All cleaned out with hot water and detergent, then wd40, then slathered with oil and pistons back in.
 
CarlG said:
Using diesel instead of gasoline will mitigate some of those problems.
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Would still get me in trouble with the "big boss" however...:D (stinky)

All the rods measured .0015 except #4, came in at .002. I removed the skinny shim and that put it on the money! :)

Speaking of shims, I was speaking with Dick Steinkamp yesterday and he told me to check the thick shim to see if it would separate into thinner ones with a razorblade. He was correct!
 

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Installed the timing cover/plunger and spring, I might even get the oilpan on today.
 

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I installed the oil pan and front seal as outlined by Tom Wesenberg, that seemed to go smoothly. The head looked to have been freshly re-surfaced, I put a straight edge on it and it looks great. I installed all new studs and the gasket and head aligned really well. I installed my back-up distributor and set the ignition timing. Now I'm trying to dig through my A stuff to find all the bits to get it running. The little plug that covers the hole over the oil-pump doesn't want to thread in... bummer.:(
 

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Art Newland said:
I installed the oil pan and front seal as outlined by Tom Wesenberg, that seemed to go smoothly. The head looked to have been freshly re-surfaced, I put a straight edge on it and it looks great. I installed all new studs and the gasket and head aligned really well. I installed my back-up distributor and set the ignition timing. Now I'm trying to dig through my A stuff to find all the bits to get it running. The little plug that covers the hole over the oil-pump doesn't want to thread in... bummer.:(
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That little plug is a pipe thread. While you can do it easily, are you going to paint the engine the proper colors?
 
Art,
I think I have the tap for that pipe thread. It might be good to remove the pan and pump, however, to insure no metal shavings get in there. I also have a stud for the manifolds if you are missing one.
 
Someone may have used a bolt to hold the pump, and that would mess up the threads. You could buy a square head 1/8" pipe plug and use a wrench to run it in straight to straighten the threads, then use the correct slotted plug. You might need a touch of Permatex on the threads if they were messed up by a bolt.
 
If that's 1/8" NPT I probably have a tap also. I had one of those brass fittings with the screw down the middle, used to hold the oil pump for oil pan removal, it threads in pretty good, about three full turns. The repro plug's second thread in, is really flat looking, I think that's most of my trouble. I'll try cleaning it up with a small three corner file and see how it goes. According to Bratton's web site the plug for the vacuum wiper connection is the same size, I've got an old intake down under my bench (somewhere) that I think has a plug in it, I'll try that also. As far as painting goes… probably not, but maybe! It will get run first. If there aren’t any hidden nasty surprises it will go in the car, I’ll put a few miles on it and if all goes OK I’ll start looking for someone to rebuild my original engine. It would need to significantly warm up here to paint it. But hey, you never know.
 
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