Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

Tom Wesenberg said:
I would solder it while bolted to the engine, but use a thin metal piece to protect the engine paint. If you screw it to a piece of wood, remember that you will have to make a raised end, as the two ends aren't in the same plane.
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I did end up bolting it on to the engine and soldering it in place. I hadn't realized how far out of line the two cupped ends really are. I used silver bearing solder and flux for potable plumbing. It didn't flow as well as I'd hoped, but it came out OK. It seems very strong.
 

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Art, I am going to go out on a limb here and say your engine will probably be a leaker. The reason is the groove to the front of the rear bearing. This groove is not necessary and will let combustion gasses and piston pressures to force oil to the rear of the bearing and overwhelm the slinger and return tube causing the well to leak into the flywheel. If it does, you can call me and I will tell you how to remedy this problem. I would post it but it may be controversial and I don't want to cause trouble on the board, I can tell you and you can convey the message.
 
James Rogers said:
Art, I am going to go out on a limb here and say your engine will probably be a leaker. The reason is the groove to the front of the rear bearing. This groove is not necessary and will let combustion gasses and piston pressures to force oil to the rear of the bearing and overwhelm the slinger and return tube causing the well to leak into the flywheel. If it does, you can call me and I will tell you how to remedy this problem. I would post it but it may be controversial and I don't want to cause trouble on the board, I can tell you and you can convey the message.
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I don't like the fact that groove is there, I'm sure someone must have thought it was a good idea, I've gone this far I might as well see what will happen. I could always have the main cap re-babbitted I suppose. Even though I plan to run this on a stand, I know that will not tell the whole story. I can't imagine a lot of crankcase pressure with the large opening at the filler tube but under heavy load maybe, especially until the rings seat. My old engine leaks too, if it's not horrendous, still might get me by while I have the original gone through.
 
forever4 said:
I still have a couple nice welded and brazed tubes (non-dented) which were redi-stripped and epoxy primed for sale, for people who don't want to repair their own swiss watch.

My web page shows similar cleaned parts prior to epoxy e-coat coating.

p.s.
There are no threads in the cap, except in certain locations in Australia apparently. Same place they use the #4 cylinder valve positions to time the engine.
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When Art referred to the oil return tube, I thought he was talking about the return pipe on the rear main bearing cap.
Using the valves on #4 to get TDC on #1 is a system as old as 4 cylinder engines used around the world, except your place apparently. I'll explain it to you again in a PM if you like.
 
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Art Newland said:
I don't like the fact that groove is there, I'm sure someone must have thought it was a good idea, I've gone this far I might as well see what will happen. I could always have the main cap re-babbitted I suppose. Even though I plan to run this on a stand, I know that will not tell the whole story. I can't imagine a lot of crankcase pressure with the large opening at the filler tube but under heavy load maybe, especially until the rings seat. My old engine leaks too, if it's not horrendous, still might get me by while I have the original gone through.
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No need to rebabbitt. It can be fixed quite easily in your shop. You would be surprised how little pressure it takes to make one leak horrendously.
 
My engine made the trip to the test stand today...:)
 

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jm29henry said:
Good luck I'm betting she's going to run great!
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Fingers crossed! I'm pretty sure it will run, the starter is untested, I moved manifolds/carb from my running engine so they are a known good quantity. I can always pull the starter if I have to. Worries are unseen cracks/waterleaks... :eek:
 
Art Newland said:
Here's the setup, need a better fuel line arrangement.
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Just a word on using the jumper cables.. many look beefy but when you cut open the thick covering youll find the cable is puny.. they are designed to assist starting using another cars battery..
just mentioning in-case you get a slow crank...
 
Art, I bet you had a smile a mile wide when it fired and ran.
I noticed that you don't have a clutch fitted. Normally, the final balance of the crankshaft is done with flywheel and pressure plate fitted. What are your plans here?
 
Just my own thoughts, but I certainly wouldn't be running MY engine without coolant of some sort, even for a short while.
 
Mitch//pa said:
Just a word on using the jumper cables.. many look beefy but when you cut open the thick covering youll find the cable is puny.. they are designed to assist starting using another cars battery..
just mentioning in-case you get a slow crank...
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If you look close, you'll see there is a battery cable in there as well. It's a 12 volt one... all I had on hand. The engine was very tight and we had a very slow crank so we paralleled it with the jumper and it helped a lot.
 
CarlG said:
Just my own thoughts, but I certainly wouldn't be running MY engine without coolant of some sort, even for a short while.
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He had the lower inlet blocked so maybe he backfilled the block with water..that being said i agree you have to be very careful
 
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