Pulled my spare engine apart for inspection

If you run a tap into the hole be sure to put grease on the tap so it catches any shavings. I would also run a pencil magnet into the hole after the tap, to be sure all shavings come out.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
If you run a tap into the hole be sure to put grease on the tap so it catches any shavings. I would also run a pencil magnet into the hole after the tap, to be sure all shavings come out.
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Sounds like good advice!:)
No tapping was needed however, the vacuum plug threaded right in, just a junk repro part I think. Per Dick's suggestion, I bought a brass plug from the plumbing selection at my local hardware store. Added a tiny dab of permatex and it threaded in fine.
 

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Found my old manifold mounting hardware, my spare oil return tube needs a little love...
 

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Thanks for the info, looks like this one is soldered, and there aren't any spot weld marks. It's a very tight fit on to the tube, do you think some permatex would seal it up? I suppose I could solder it back together, I'd think the semi-flexible permatex might make a better fix? When I bought the engine, it came with a "rebuilt" water-pump. :rolleyes: I really had not taken a good look at it until today. It turns very stiff... I tried installing it in the head but I could tell the shaft was hitting inside the head/cooling jacket. I started looking around for info on rebuilding water-pumps and there is a thick plastic/delrin spacer between the housing and impeller. I don't see that on any exploded view or rebuild kit? The impeller is definitely used, the shaft looks new, also appears to be a sealed ball bearing in the snout. The shaft won't easily pull through the bearings for dis-assembly, I'll try a little force tomorrow.
 

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Tom Wesenberg said:
You can grind the rear end of the shaft just enough to clear the head without the gasket in place.
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Just make sure you get that shaft out of the housings, it looks like a shaft I got with a rebuild to Leakless water pump. I had to use a cut-off wheel, and that generated a great deal of heat, enough that it would melt down any seal around it.

The impeller that was attached to that shaft had a pin in it, yours looks like it is a press fit, I don't see a pin.
 
The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.
 

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Art Newland said:
The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.
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Easy fix if you bolt it in place without the gaskets, then use a propane torch and some good solder. I have better luck with electrical solder than acid core or lead free solder.
 
Art Newland said:
The impeller is pinned, just don't see it in the pictures. Working on the oil return tube for the time being. You can really see the solder now that it's cleaned up.
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I wouldn't trust solder there. I suggest you clean it off and secure the drain tube with a spot or two of weld. What happened to the threads in the cap??:eek:
 
I have found that using any of the solders if you tin it first, you can put a drip or 2 of muriatic(sp) acid at the joint, slip the two together and apply heat and they will seal up nicely. Just be very sparing on the tinning, like wire brush the excess solder off as there isn't much room for globs of solder. And IF you want, after the two pieces are together and heated, another drop of solder will ensure the joint.
 
I do believe I will attempt to re-solder, got the rest of it all cleaned up.
 

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Easy fix if you bolt it in place without the gaskets, then use a propane torch and some good solder. I have better luck with electrical solder than acid core or lead free solder.
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If you do it that way, put a piece of sheet metal between the pipe parts and the engine. This will protect the paint on the valve cover and the block.
 
I would solder it while bolted to the engine, but use a thin metal piece to protect the engine paint. If you screw it to a piece of wood, remember that you will have to make a raised end, as the two ends aren't in the same plane.
 
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