problem to start

That works out to about 13 miles per gallon, not spectacular. My Mercury with a mostly stock 292 and 500 cfm 4 barrel gets in the upper teens/low 20s on the highway in overdrive. I think you could improve your fuel consumption with the proper carburetor. This somewhat depends on the type of driving you do. City driving consumes more fuel.
 
Ted Eaton has a modification for using 4-bbl teapot carb with '57 and later mechanical advance distributor, but I never heard of anybody offering a proven fix for modifying ECG 2-bbl "bugsprayer" type carb to use with mechanical advance.
Don't even bother trying to read Ted's article. The 4-bbl teapot is a complicated animal and completely different from the 2-bbl carbs.
Your options to get the engine operating properly:
1) Keep ECG carb and go back to using original Load-o-matic distributor.
2) Keep the '57 or later distributor and replace your intake manifold/carburator and associated linkage with a '57 or later Y-block setup.
3) Keep both your carb and dizzy and find a modification that will operate the advance in the dizzy properly. (unknown)
 
BTW, replacement vacuum cans for the old load-o-matic distributors have not been offered by repro parts suppliers the last few years, so if that is a problem in your old dizzy, swapping back to the old dizzy is not an option.
 
56yblock said:
does anyone have a pics of the 57 intake manifold with original linkage carb/distrib?
Click to expand...
You can use '57 thru '62 Y-block car intake manifolds (272, 292 or 312) or '57 thru '64 Ford Y-block (292) truck intake manifolds.
But if you swap, you must get associated gas linkage & bellcrank as these are different from the '56 ECG setup. I don't have picks of anything newer than '56.
 
56yblock said:
does anyone have a pics of the 57 intake manifold with original linkage carb/distrib?
Click to expand...
With a manual or automatic transmission?
2 barrel carburetor ?
If I remember correctly, the '57+ 2bbl carb to intake manifold bolt pattern is 4 bolts, not 3.

.
 
Last edited:
yes i have manual transmission 3 on 3 at the column with 2 barrel carburetor and would to see the 1957 same configuration
 
56yblock,
Go to Ted Eaton Balancing on the internet and it will show you how to modify your carburetor for your distributor. Hope this helps.
 
Are there any Noticeable, significant gains by modifying the carb per Ted Eatons instructions. anyone on here have done the modifications and can tell us what improvements they realized. The reason I ask is my 56 292 with 2bbl ecg carb and post 57 dizzy has been working flawlessly for the past 38 yrs. I get around 15-16 mpg with an o/d transmission and 3.73 rear end. Not sure if that’s good or bad but it’s what it is. I have a 56 f100.
 
estout81 said:
56yblock,
Go to Ted Eaton Balancing on the internet and it will show you how to modify your carburetor for your distributor. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Here is a link to the procedure for modifying the older 2 bbl carburetors...
https://www.eatonbalancing.com/2010...ey-94-two-barrel-for-late-model-distributors/

wellcraft17 said:
Are there any Noticeable, significant gains by modifying the carb per Ted Eatons instructions. anyone on here have done the modifications and can tell us what improvements they realized. The reason I ask is my 56 292 with 2bbl ecg carb and post 57 dizzy has been working flawlessly for the past 38 yrs. I get around 15-16 mpg with an o/d transmission and 3.73 rear end. Not sure if that’s good or bad but it’s what it is. I have a 56 f100.
Click to expand...
It's my understanding the '57+ distributors advance the ignition timing approx 95+ % based on the centrifugal fly-weights and the vacuum canister function is for 'fine tuning' the timing, giving a slight boost in fuel economy.
.
 
i think i have 1957 ford 4,4 l 272 ci y block with original ignition distrib, the old owner has changed the original engine, maybe cause it was break and he keeped the original 1956 intake manifold with load matic 2bbl egc , the car come from ontario canada, the engine original color is blue and the intake manifold is green, it's different color that y blocks that build in usa
 
The style of choke (manual or automatic) has nothing to do with whether the carburetor is a Loadomatic or not. "Loadomatic" has to do with the special internal passage in the carburetor that would be connected to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the Loadmatic distributor, which is advanced only by vacuum from the carburetor and lacks centrifugal advance weights. Your 1957 distributor has both vacuum and centrifugal advance and is not really compatible with the Loadomatic carburetor as the vacuum signal from the carburetor is too weak for the 1957 distributor.
 
wellcraft17 said:
Are there any Noticeable, significant gains by modifying the carb per Ted Eatons instructions. anyone on here have done the modifications and can tell us what improvements they realized. The reason I ask is my 56 292 with 2bbl ecg carb and post 57 dizzy has been working flawlessly for the past 38 yrs. I get around 15-16 mpg with an o/d transmission and 3.73 rear end. Not sure if that’s good or bad but it’s what it is. I have a 56 f100.
Click to expand...


If you modify your ECG 6 2 barrel carb per the procedure posted above, using a '57 distributor, you will get even better than 15 - 16 MPG since you will have more spark advance at part throttle light loads, which makes for less throttle opening for the same power.

Sal
 
56yblock said:
my car start well when the engine cold but it has difficult when engine it's hot, i've changed the complete ignition kit and rebuild the carburetor , does anyone knows where the problem come from ?
thanks for help me
Click to expand...

wellcraft17 said:
Ethanol gas will boil over into the Venturi dumping raw gas into the intake manifold when a hot engine is turned off thus making for a hard/difficult start. If that’s causing your issue find some non ethanol gas and or lower the fuel level in the carb float bowl.
Click to expand...

Daves55Sedan said:
Okay that is a '57 or later distributor with the correct points and condenser

How the heck are you using this with a 2-bbl ECG carb? Have you made modifications to the carb to work with the mechanical advance distributor?
Click to expand...

Your CARB is LOAD-O-MATIC as it still has the SPARK CONTROL VALVE mounted (unless the signal was sourced to MANIFOLD VACUUM).

444000


If it starts easily while cold but is difficult to re-start hot, then wellcraft17 is correct. It is called heat soak. Temp rises, the fuel expands and if the pressure is not relieved at the pump check valve, it floods the carb. Ethanol laced gasoline also has a much lower boiling point.

You also have to perform the upgrade Daves55Sedan showed you. The two systems (LOAD-O-MATIC and DUAL ADVANCE} are not compatible.
 
Tell ya another thing you need to do if you are going to keep the ECG carb. Get one of those phenolic spacers to install between intake manifold and carb. You will need another gasket and longer carb mounting studs.
So it goes like this:
New gasket on intake manifold
Phenolic spacer on top of gasket.
New gasket on top of spacer
Carb on top of new gasket.
If you do this, it will help to keep fuel from getting too hot and expanding, possibly end the problem with flooding
 
the first time when i rebuilted the carburetor with a kit supermarket it was leaking everywhere, i rebuild again with a n.o.s. kit, it no more leak , the car starts and runs perfect before to change the repro supermarket fuel pump, i think that the problem is here ,i must to be push the pedal gaz to start when the engine is hot when it cold it starts immediatly ....i'll rebuilded the old fuel pump with a n.o.s. kit, and car works like before.....
 
56yblock said:
... the first time when i rebuilted the carburetor with a kit supermarket it was leaking everywhere, i rebuild again with a n.o.s. kit, it no more leak , the car starts and runs perfect before to change the repro supermarket fuel pump, i think that the problem is here ,i must to be push the pedal gaz to start when the engine is hot when it cold it starts immediatly ....i'll rebuilded the old fuel pump with a n.o.s. kit, and car works like before.....
Click to expand...

Maybe you should perform a pump pressure and volume test. Details are in the manual. Do you have ethanol laced gasoline over there?

Also -

scicala said:
(EDITED) Kit's are available at most auto parts stores (Walker, G.P sorensen etc.) but sometimes the power valves are questionable. Also Daytona Carb in Florida has quality kits.

Charlie ny on this forum has good power valves if you want one too.

Also, if your carb is for a '56 272 with automatic choke, I have an NOS carburetor that I freshened with an ethanol resistant pump piston cup and power valve if you are interested.

Sal
Click to expand...

Thread Source - https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1931031#post1931031

Quality of kits are important if gasoline has ethanol.
 
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