problem to start
- Thread starter 56yblock
- Start date
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
It's called a clamp meter. Some general garages would have one, and certainly all auto electric shops would.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
I'm guessing you've got a recently made chinese ignition condenser in the distributor? Those are notorious for failing after the engine warms up to normal operating temp, but you can come back later to start after it cools off.
If you can get a NAPA Echlin heavy duty condenser .21-.25 mfds capacity, that might be your best option to remedy failed condenser, but no guarantees. So far I havent had any problems. Dont buy any from the repro guys, they all come from china and are guaranteed waste of money.
Old starter motors can have enough wear in the brass armature bushings to cause difficulty in starting. Starter brushes may be worn or commutator dirty/oily.
Check to make sure ground connections between starter and engine are CLEAN and tight. I actually ran a #6 guage stranded copper wire from engine block to the top starter mounting bolt to help guarantee good ground. The engine bolt is the same one that the battery ground cable connects to (at the dipstick tube mounting bolt). So it's practically directly connected to battery ground.
If you can get a NAPA Echlin heavy duty condenser .21-.25 mfds capacity, that might be your best option to remedy failed condenser, but no guarantees. So far I havent had any problems. Dont buy any from the repro guys, they all come from china and are guaranteed waste of money.
Old starter motors can have enough wear in the brass armature bushings to cause difficulty in starting. Starter brushes may be worn or commutator dirty/oily.
Check to make sure ground connections between starter and engine are CLEAN and tight. I actually ran a #6 guage stranded copper wire from engine block to the top starter mounting bolt to help guarantee good ground. The engine bolt is the same one that the battery ground cable connects to (at the dipstick tube mounting bolt). So it's practically directly connected to battery ground.
wellcraft17
Senior Member
Ethanol gas will boil over into the Venturi dumping raw gas into the intake manifold when a hot engine is turned off thus making for a hard/difficult start. If that’s causing your issue find some non ethanol gas and or lower the fuel level in the carb float bowl.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
The choke may need adjusting??? To a slightly richer setting?
My 292 started easily hot or cold, but the main jets were a few sizes too large. After changing the main jets I had to set the choke very slightly richer, to more easily start & idle the engine when it was still warm after driving, but not yet cold.
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My 292 started easily hot or cold, but the main jets were a few sizes too large. After changing the main jets I had to set the choke very slightly richer, to more easily start & idle the engine when it was still warm after driving, but not yet cold.
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Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
If you still have the original load-o-matic distributor, the '57 points, condenser and rotor will not fit, and a '57 and later distributor will not work properly with the original ECG 2-bbl carburator without modifications.
The '54 thru '56 V8 ignition points, condenser and rotor are interchangable.
dmsfrr
Well-known member
56yblock,
The easy to spot visual difference in internal hardware between the '56 and earlier Loadomatic distributors (photo 1)
and the '57 to '59 version (photo 2).
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Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
Okay that is a '57 or later distributor with the correct points and condenser (although, I don't like that short condenser wire). Those cheaters can't give you an extra 1/4" of wire?
How the heck are you using this with a 2-bbl ECG carb? Have you made modifications to the carb to work with the mechanical advance distributor? Or did you change intake manifold to accept '57 or later carb?
How the heck are you using this with a 2-bbl ECG carb? Have you made modifications to the carb to work with the mechanical advance distributor? Or did you change intake manifold to accept '57 or later carb?
56yblock
Senior Member
when i bought this car , it was like this , i don't know if it was modification or stock maybe the old owner changed the engine for a 57 ? what is the kind of modification for the carburetor ? i post few pics of the carburetor, is there any something wrong ?
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dmsfrr
Well-known member
Here is a link to a chart where you can look up the engine block number...
http://ford-y-block.com/Block identification.htm
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
If that is what you still have on the engine, it is a factory 1956 2-bbl intake manifold with original ECG style carburator. I believe that in order to make this carb work properly with the '57 mechanical advance distributor is first to remove the spark control valve from the back of the carb and replace with a blank plug, then you need to modify vacuum signal from carb to distributor vacuum advance. I do not know the procedure, but others in this forum have made the modification.
Another way to make the engine run properly using the '57 and later distributor is to get a good used '57 intake manifold with carburator and the associated gas pedal linkage and bellcrank.
Another way to make the engine run properly using the '57 and later distributor is to get a good used '57 intake manifold with carburator and the associated gas pedal linkage and bellcrank.
56yblock
Senior Member
Dobie Gillis
Well-known member
The tune up kit won't help much with the carburetor and distributor combination you have, they are not compatible with each other. You need to either go back to the original 1956 distributor (not recommended) or go to a carburetor that is compatible with the 1957 distributor. I don't know what 2 barrel carburetors will work but someone on this forum surely will know.
56yblock
Senior Member
the car starts and runs good before has problems about the fuel pump and the ignition distributor, i have this car since 4 years ago, it always works good ,i've rebuild the carburetor with a kit N.O.S. now i must to found a new fuel pump or rebuild the old, because i've put a supermarket repro and i don't like it
40cpe
Well-known member
The vacuum advance should not affect starting and the incompatible carb/dist will seem to run good if in good shape, especially if one hasn't experienced a properly operating system. The centrifugal distributor will supply advance to the ignition but the engine will suffer in fuel mileage in light load conditions.
