polerziing generator

If you have the "Fun Projects" regulator, DO NOT polarize it with the regulator installed. It will fry itself IMMEDIATELY.
 
Polarizing magnetizes the field pole shoes with enough magnetic gauss to excite the generator field up enough to close the cut out relay and bring it on line to the buss after the engine is started. The residual magnetic polarity has to match the battery polarity for it to function. With only a cut out the process is straight forward but it is likely a little different with an aftermarket regulator. Regulators are generally isolated to perform this and Fun Products should have a procedure in their regulator installation instructions for this.

In this link, you will find instructions for the type of regulator you have.
http://www.funprojects.com/products/10505r.aspx
 
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Unless changing from negative to positive or new parts like field windings/shoes have been installed should not need it. But if you wish, take the regulator off and touch the battery side lead to the out put terminal 2 or 3 times, quick flashes.
 
If the system is stock/factory then just jump/touch both cutout terminals with a jumper wire for a nano-second while engine is running.
 
To test the generator as well a polarizing it,stop engine,take the belt off and do as Red says,only hold the battery wire to the field wire...the generator should slowly 'motor', the pulley will begin to turn on its own,if it does,its a good bet your generator is in good shape,and by virtue of what you did,is polarized as well.
 
Have not done this myself. I have read that if you are not running with an original design cutoff, you are supposed to remove what you have, install a cutoff, polarize as instructed above, and then reinstall what you were running. So you should keep an original design cutoff in your inventory.


There is a design that modifies the generator, replaces the 3rd brush. I do not know how you would polarize a modified generator.
 
The field coils are what magnetizes the pole shoes so the wire that connects to those coils is the key. Which ever battery terminal that provides the power is the one to flash that field to. The solid state type regulators have to be isolated from the field to perform a polarization. The old cut outs aren't a regulator so they would be hard to hurt. Flashing a field is momentary but should not exceed 3 seconds or the field coils might be damaged. If a generator is off the car to polarize then the case should be grounded to the battery ground prior to flashing the field.

The old Magnaflux machine I used to use would hit apart for slightly more than one second to get the right gauss for a magnetic particle inspection of a ferromagnetic part. I still have the old AC coil to demagnetize parts. Now and then the NDT shops I use forget to demag a part so I like to keep it around.
 
Railcarmover said:
doesn't matter which design,exciting the field wire polarizes the generator.
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Seems to be some concern that shorting when an electronic regulator/cutoff is installed will damage the electronics, and is why the info I read said to install a cutoff to polarize. If this info is incorrect please correct me.


Thanks
 
You don't need a regulator or cut out of any kind to polarize a generator,the regulator doesn't care what polarity it sees. as for shorting field and battery on an electronic unit I wouldn't,I don't trust electronics to begin with,much less jumping wires.With a diode style cutout you have to bypass it to polarize the generator
 
Does someone have a video or is willing to make a video (or series of pictures) on polarizing a generator and post it so as to make it crystal clear to folks that want to do this?
 
The Fun Products regulator cares about polarity. They are available in both positive ground and negative ground. The generator has to be polarized properly for either application. To connect one of those units in reverse will ruin it rather quickly. The original cut out is a different story. It doesn't care. The diode types only care about which way the current flows.
 
So, do you know anything about the cut out on your car? Is it special $ and a modification or is it a reproduction or original? Don't start testing the generator until you get past the Polarize step. If it is a regular cutout (not diode) you can polarize by jumping with a wire or the handles of a pair of pliers From one Terminal to the other Terminal. There are only 2. Only takes 1/2 second, with wires connected as usual. If it charges when started to the Plus, you're good.
 
100IH said:
So, do you know anything about the cut out on your car? Is it special $ and a modification or is it a reproduction or original? Don't start testing the generator until you get past the Polarize step. If it is a regular cutout (not diode) you can polarize by jumping with a wire or the handles of a pair of pliers From one Terminal to the other Terminal. There are only 2. Only takes 1/2 second, with wires connected as usual. If it charges when started to the Plus, you're good.
Click to expand...



Since I do not do it often, only once in 7 years, the easiest way for me to remember where you can not make a mistake due to foggy memory syndrome, is to polarize a generator by installing it on the vehicle with an original design cutoff installed on it, and short the terminals. There may be other ways, but this is the simplest way for me to remember. Very little to go wrong. Then remove the cutoff and install the regulator or diode of your choice.
 
I flashed the field coils, but they weren't excited. LOL
 

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As mentioned, if you use the regulator in the cutout, then it should be removed before you put the battery voltage to the generator output post.
My regulator is inside the generator, and you can polarize the generator the normal way by just jumping a wire across the in and out screws of the cutout for one second. You can also just use a battery charger or any source of 6 volts and apply the negative to the generator output post. You should see a small spark when you do this.
 
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