Points Pointers

Very good advice, thanks!.

One step at a time works best. Some of us are less experienced than others and rely on those who know.

Einstein said; "Experience is knowlege, everything else is simply information."

I have lots of information, very little knowlege...
 
Relvis P. Johnson said:
Mike The Swami!

You know of my next problem before I do!

Now that I'm past the mis-understood wiring diagrams (Bratton's is the easy one to understand) I have weak spark at the plug wires and it won't even fire.

I've timed it using the pin, get spark at the points but no go.

The distributor sat around the garage for about ten years, perhaps I should think about putting in the modern points and a new condenser if I'm going to run it rather than the nu-rex.

The coil is the one used on the nu-rex, I guess I'll need to check the point gap tomorrow when I jump back into it. I probably should invest in some diagnistic tools as well, any suggestions? :eek:
Click to expand...

With the mis-wiring you could have blown out the nurex module.
 
Relvis P. Johnson said:
Mike The Swami!

You know of my next problem before I do!

Now that I'm past the mis-understood wiring diagrams (Bratton's is the easy one to understand) I have weak spark at the plug wires and it won't even fire.

I've timed it using the pin, get spark at the points but no go.

The distributor sat around the garage for about ten years, perhaps I should think about putting in the modern points and a new condenser if I'm going to run it rather than the nu-rex.

The coil is the one used on the nu-rex, I guess I'll need to check the point gap tomorrow when I jump back into it. I probably should invest in some diagnistic tools as well, any suggestions? :eek:
Click to expand...

Don't do that unless you enjoy adding new problems and like to tinker. Henry Ford's distributor is as simple and reliable as they come.

Diagnose the problem rather than start throwing in more parts and possible problems. When points set around a long time unused they may get dirt or light corrosion on the contacts. An easy way to test is to stop the engine with the points open. Now turn the key on and hold the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut and short the points contacts off and on with a screwdriver. If you now have a good hot blue spark you know the points need to be cleaned.

Another way to test the points to see if they need to be cleaned is to check the contacts for voltage drop. Stop the engine the the key on and with the points closed. Set you volt meter to a low DC voltage setting and put the probes on each side of the contacts. If the points have good contact with each other the needle on the volt meter won't move. If you get a volt reading you know the points need to be cleaned.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Don't do that unless you enjoy adding new problems and like to tinker. Henry Ford's distributor is as simple and reliable as they come.

Diagnose the problem rather than start throwing in more parts and possible problems. When points set around a long time unused they may get dirt or light corrosion on the contacts. An easy way to test is to stop the engine with the points open. Now turn the key on and hold the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut and short the points contacts off and on with a screwdriver. If you now have a good hot blue spark you know the points need to be cleaned.

Another way to test the points to see if they need to be cleaned is to check the contacts for voltage drop. Stop the engine the the key on and with the points closed. Set you volt meter to a low DC voltage setting and put the probes on each side of the contacts. If the points have good contact with each other the needle on the volt meter won't move. If you get a volt reading you know the points need to be cleaned.
Click to expand...

Good advice here, something to put in the memory bank.:) However, in your situation, I'd not even bother checking, I'd just "clean" them. The best thing I've ever used is a small whet rock. Just hit it lightly, enough to take the tarnish off, being careful not to make them crooked. You want the two halves of the points to mate flat with one another when they are in the distributor. If they dont they will burn and pit prematurely. You can use fine sandpaper for this also. 320 or greater. Again, you're not looking to change the shape, or rough them up, just get off the corrosion.
Did you ever OHM out the coil? That would at least eliminate one thing. Thats the way you have to troubleshoot. Methodically check and verify:
1- The most likely causes
2- Anything you recently touched ( which in your case is everything)
3- The easiest to get to first. As in, verify the coil, before you take the distributor apart to check the lower wire.
Stop treating it like an Easter egg hunt.
Get the spark correct before you worry about the timing.
Good Luck!:)
 
Thanks Guys!

After my chores are done this morning, I'll get back out to the garage for some more fun. I'll take the advice and not even think about adding modern points, I might even have a new set original style points still in the box somewhere on the shelf.

In addition to my test light, what sort of diagnostic tools should I add to my inventory?
 
don't need much for diagnostic tools.
with the key on, hold the center wire in the dizzy a 1/4 inch from a head nut, and open and close the points using a plastic handled screwdriver.

You should get a blue spark from the coil wire to the head nut. That would mean your coil is operational, as well as the points and condenser.

Did the NuRex system use the condenser factory mounted in the bottom of the dizzy body? In other words be sure there is a condenser in place in the dizzy body like Henry set it up.

I will never understand why a third party manufacturer would come up with a points system diff. from Henry's. His was the easiest to adjust and was reliable as could be. The condensers did burn out from exhaust heat but way better burn-out proof condensers are available today, which is what you need to order

If not, get back to us
 
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