Points Pointers

R

Relvis P. Johnson

Member
When the points are closed, the top plate becomes charged and the fuse by the starter blows. With the plate out of the distributor body, it lights up the test light. When I put the plate back into the body it shorts out and blows the fuse when I turn the key on. Can anyone tell me why? :mad::mad::mad:
 
you have a distributor that is hot and when you put it in the engine and turn the key on it shorts out blowing your fuse. Did you have the condenser go bad and its shorting out.
 
Wow This is the fifth thread you have started on the same problem and it
makes it really hard to follow and help you. You need to let use know how
the ignition switch is wired because if it is still wired like it was for the Nu-rex
it will blow the fuse when wired to the stock distributor.

Bob
 
Is it the fifth? It seems like more. I'm new to this forum stuff, I'll get the hang of it eventually.

If I could locate my nu-rex documentation, it would make it less difficult for sure. I just want to go back to stock.

12 volt, positive ground, key to + side of coil, connected to the distributor at the other end. The yellow w/ black on the street side of junction box. The solid Yellow wire is on curbside, connected to black wire on - side of coil.

Still, I blow fuses...
 
Need more info...
Is a complete NuRex ignition system installed? Yes or No?
Is a complete original Model A ignition system installed? Yes or No?
 
A short in any element; switch, wire, condenser, points, upper plate, lower plate, whatever, on the + side of the coil will only turn the coil ON. It will not blow the fuse unless the fuse is under-rated.
Try another coil.
 
With a good ohm meter, preferably a swing (analog), check the resistance between the - terminal and the + terminal. Should be around 2 or 3 ohms. If full meter deflection the coil is shorted.
 
mag said:
a short in any element; switch, wire, condenser, points, upper plate, lower plate, whatever, on the + side of the coil will only turn the coil on. It will not blow the fuse unless the fuse is under-rated.
Try another coil.
Click to expand...

Bingo
 
PLEASE, get someone who KNOWS Model A's, to help you wire all systems to stock & it will work.
We can't help you much, in your confusion, when we can't see & touch & test stuff to find/correct the problems.
Off hand I think something is screwed up from whatever NU-Rex stuff you had wired up in the car.
STUDY, STUDY, STUDY, the original wiring diagram & hook up stuff accordingly! Excluding the lighting system, Model A wiring is about as simple as it gets. About the ONLY odd thing is that the ignition switch turns the current off/on, between the coil & the distributor, unlike most other cars.
Sorry if I tipe "stern", I gotta' go pee!----Bill W.
 
I run a three ohm epoxy filled coil on my 12 volt positive ground model A. I run the original distributor with original style points. I also run the original style color coded wiring harnesses connected as original. The three ohm coil needs no external resister.

There could be a short against the distributor housing where the wire from the lower plate connects to the points. The terminal end needs to be bent and installed in a way that it can't contact the distributor housing. There could be a short between the lower plate and the housing, caused from tightening the ignition cable too tight. Maybe falty rivets on the lower plate.

Check out the wiring diagram on page 94 of Brattons catalog . This is the best and easiest to follow wiring diagram for the model A that I have seen. This is exactly how mine is wired.
 
Thanks Bill & Purdy.

I'll follow the Bratton's diagram, it's simple and everything's clearly marked.

Thanks so much to everyone, I really appriciate your time & experience...
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Bingo
Click to expand...

BILL WILLIAMSON said:
PLEASE, get someone who KNOWS Model A's, to help you wire all systems to stock & it will work.
We can't help you much, in your confusion, when we can't see & touch & test stuff to find/correct the problems.
Off hand I think something is screwed up from whatever NU-Rex stuff you had wired up in the car.
STUDY, STUDY, STUDY, the original wiring diagram & hook up stuff accordingly! Excluding the lighting system, Model A wiring is about as simple as it gets. About the ONLY odd thing is that the ignition switch turns the current off/on, between the coil & the distributor, unlike most other cars.
Sorry if I tipe "stern", I gotta' go pee!----Bill W.
Click to expand...

The wiring diagrams are on the other threads you have started for the same problem.
 
He solved the problem,

Problem Solved!

If the wires are hooked up wrong, one can't expect it to work right.

The Bratton's Schematic did the trick.

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!
 
Thanks Mike, its good to know that the problems worked out. After reading the posts, it was obvious to me that the wiring was wrong . Rather than trying to explain where each wire should connect, I figured if he studied the wiring diagram, he would see the problem. The next problem may well be the ohm of the coil that is being used.
 
Mike The Swami!

You know of my next problem before I do!

Now that I'm past the mis-understood wiring diagrams (Bratton's is the easy one to understand) I have weak spark at the plug wires and it won't even fire.

I've timed it using the pin, get spark at the points but no go.

The distributor sat around the garage for about ten years, perhaps I should think about putting in the modern points and a new condenser if I'm going to run it rather than the nu-rex.

The coil is the one used on the nu-rex, I guess I'll need to check the point gap tomorrow when I jump back into it. I probably should invest in some diagnistic tools as well, any suggestions? :eek:
 
why do ppl have so much trouble with electrical?
Concentrate on hooking up one wire at a time. Be sure you know EXACTLY where each end of every wire is. That is how the rest of us do it.
Do not look at a diagram with a bunch of wires and have a seizure over the apparent maze that is to be mastered. Just do one at a time.
 
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