Paint

reggiedog

reggiedog

Well-known member
HI: I want to know what people are putting on the model a's these day's.I have a model a that I'm going to paint in my garage but can't decide what to put on the car. Some one told me NOT to use the two part paint's or the primers that go with. I want to seal the car but it has a little bit of primer and bondo on the car so do I take all of that off and seal it or do I just leave it and get it ready to seal. And I don't like the paint or primers that are single stage like Dupla coler. Don't like that stuff at all so what is there that I can use that will look like a pro job. I know painting the car in my garage is not going to give me a pro jub but I'm trying to make it look like a pro did it. I have never painted a hole car so this might be a big mistake but I'm going to try any way can't afford to let a body shop paint it way to much money even if I sand and block it so all thay have to do is the finnal wipe down and paint the car in pieces the body the fenders and all the othe stuff that goes with that. They told me that's to much work and it will cast over a thousand so no way I can afford that I'm just going to piant it in my garage. But can't decide what paint to use it's going to be all black with apple green wheels and the pin stripe. So please let me know what to use thanks reggiedog ( or some one can come here and paint it ha.ha. thanks )
 
Find someone who will just spray the car. You do all the prep work and buy the paint per the sprayers directions.
 
I would buy some Kirker epoxy. I use iit exclusively on my cars. It is an epoxy with great adhesion and sealing properties, but it sands wonderfully. That makes it stand out.
 
I tryed to ask a body shop to spray the paint on all they had to do was the finnel wipe down.But they still wanted 1000.00 to do it can't afford that. So there I sit I'm not ready for paint yet but I'm looking around to see what evey body is putting on there cars. let me know that thanks reggiedog
 
I'm using DP 90 for primer and DCC 9000 for top coat. I'm just doing chassis parts right now, but it's working fine painting the parts in front of my garage.
 
I did basecoat/cleat coat in my garage. I used PPG Deltron/PPG Velocity clear. I used a cheaper Hitech Hi build direct to metal epoxy primer that worked well under it. I just hung plastic and ventalated it really well with fans and filtered the air leaving the garage.

If there is any bondo showing i think i would seal it first. The sealer will not only seal the body work, it also keeps it from showing under the basecoat. You wont use alot of sealer doing this. It goes on pretty thin and covers.
 
I go to the local NAPA store and buy the gloss black acrylic enamel a quart at a time and it is economical and looks great. May not last forever and may not be a "show" job but it works for a driving car on a budget.
 
I'd recommend primer from Southern Polyurethane and topcoat from TCPGlobal's Restoration shop line.
 
The real answer lies in what do you to want the car to look like. Dupli-colors single stage color still has a clear coat available but very limited colors for base colors.

Did the person who said not to use two part paint say why?

I would suggest that you go to http://www.tcpglobal.com/Restorationshop/ and see what they have to offer.

As for primer and bondo already on the car, do you know how well it was applied?

There are short cuts you can take, but sometime you can get lost taking them.
 
I use a variety of paint ranging from Nason Urethanes to PPG Deltron & Concept & Glasurit.

I would not use any paint on a car that did not require a hardener/activator.

Nason Ful-thane is a good "budget" paint, but I'd stay away from the PPG Omni/Shopline lines of paint. Their primer is good, but I don't care much for the paint.

You have to look at what your budget is and what you want the finished product to be.

I don't recommend getting mail order paint- go to your local jobber and get it in person. This also allows you to ask any questions you might have and you'll be able to see what the paint color looks like before you buy it.
 
Painting your own car may not turn out to be show quality but the pride and satisfaction is there.
SAFETY:
Spraying primers/paint is toxic, just read the warning labels. Most guys say that a good respirator is adequate, but a supplied air one is the safest way to go. Hobby Air is a good one.
 
I was told to use the two part primer like what they use on briges for the sealer and a two part for the primer. I just don't know what is out there any more. I want the car to be almost show but I don't want the laquer like original that paint don't last as long as enamel does. Or other paints so what do I use when I'm going to spray the car in my garage. And I don't have the 2000.00 air filter system. I just have the one that you buy at like the hardware store it covers your mouth and nose with a filter on both sides of the mask. So let me know thanks reggiedog
 
If your not going to get a hobby-Air make sure you get the activated cartridge respirator from a paint supply house. The generic ones from the hardware store work for dust but are not designed to neutralize the isocyanides like the activated cartridge. They are inexpensive and good for 8 hours so you chuck them when your done or when you start to smell the paint through them.

I did a base coat / clear coat in the garage using PPG DP epoxy primer with K38 high build primer then sealer and PPG Deltron with 2120 Clear. I mostly did it myself for the pride and satisfaction but I'm not sure I actually saved much money doing it myself. If your trying to stay with high quality materials it will be hard to stay much under the $1000 mark. Its possible to do, perhaps with other brands, but adds up fast. I spent well over $1500 just on materials but that was for all the primers, sealers, two colors, and clear so I ended up with a ton of left over. Not to mention a new gun and compressor. Since you are only using black it should be cheaper and easier to limit waste. Also for the apple green wheels your best bet may be to use a cheap single stage two part enamel. They are wheels so they are bound to get chips and using a cheaper paint that can be easily touched up will soften the pain when you nick one. I used tractor paint on mine but not sure if they will have a color close to apple green.

Good Luck,
Bob
 
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Thanks guy's for all of your advice. I think I'm going to find some one that can paint the car for me. I would like it to be just like the originals But not with the lacquer paint. And I'm going to save this thread so I can go back to it. But thanks a mill reggiedog
 
Wow, you want it to be "almost show quality" ...but not quite. Do I also understand you to say that enamel paint lasts longer than lacquer? I would truly be obliged if you would explain the definition of 'almost show quality'. Also, just curious what color(s) you are wanting to paint your car.
 
If you are a beginner and can get lacquer, I would strongly suggest it. It is a much easier paint system to work with. Mistakes are easily fixed. That being said, the proper way to do a lacquer job can be a time monger. Still the benefits for a first timer out weight the time factor IMO. Your car will see limited time outside, therefore the short fallings of lacquer in day to day survival, will not be an issue, again IMO.
 
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