Overflow tank

I think mostly rust. Not much grease that I could see. It left a serious rust stain on the gravel driveway next to my garage but I didn't see much evidence of grease.
 
My blockage was due to rust. I'm sure there was quite a buildup near the rear of the block, where it usually builds up. While driving down the freeway some of the built up rust broke loose and the large rust flakes block off the tubes until the antifreeze went out the overflow. A lot of those rust flakes were still laying on top of the tubes until I removed the radiator and backflushed it upside down 4 times.
 
Thanks very much Tiny & Tom.

I think your above detailed replies #21 & #22 are most helpful in giving new Model A owners some very specific information that radiator blockage can also be caused by rust particles.

In searching former posted radiator cleansing remedies for vintage radiator blockage on different vintage vehicle forums, the recommendation to add dish water soap such as Joy liquid, or Tide, or Prestone Radiator Flush, will assist in helping to remove grease, dirt, or mild scale; but, these additives wil not cure radiator rust blockage.

Last more expensive result is bringing the radiator to a radiator shop for cleansing & rodding out debris.
 
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Tom your original post on the vinegar was what gave me the idea/confidence to do the vinegar wash. Thank you.
Vinegar is like a miracle cure for lots of things. I use it to wash all my clothes, I add a cup to every load. It keeps color brighter and whites whiter!!
After reading your original post I figured a week would clean out a fair amount of the rust but hopefully not kill my water pump like yours. Haha jokes on me it's dripping now.
I was hoping not too have too pull the radiator till next winter, but with the pump leaking I guess the upside down flush is coming soon. I don't have a suitable core on hand but next week ill be at my dads for the holiday and build one there. He has a core fore me.
 
The vinegar only removed some of the grease from the water pump and made it drip. After the 30 day flush I regreased it and all is fine again. It does not leak one drip.
 
Mine, Old Squeeze soda bottle.
 

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Thats a clean mount ^^^. I tend to shy away from stuff like that as it always seems to rat roddy to me. That though is very clean. Good job!!!!!!!!!!
 
Mine would throw coolant all the time. Felt the face of the radiator after a run an felt cool spots which I attributed to blockage. Tried everything to "clean" it to no avail so eventually had it re-cored and now runs super cool and doesn't burp an ounce.

However, if I fill it too full it will spit til it reaches it's "happy place". Full is not the correct level...need some room for expansion.

Steve
 
I encountered a man who had just bought an "A" & thought he need a NEW radiator, cause' that little tube under there drips a little water sometimes!!!
Why in Heavens name do some buy an "A" without researching or studying ANYTHING in advance???? Bill W.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
I encountered a man who had just bought an "A" & thought he need a NEW radiator, cause' that little tube under there drips a little water sometimes!!!
Why in Heavens name do some buy an "A" without researching or studying ANYTHING in advance???? Bill W.
Click to expand...

The difference is when they do something like getting a new radiator instead of asking what is going on. Not knowing anything about an A is not the crime, doing something without checking first is the crime.

Another story, we have a new member of the club. He has the first car he ever bought, an A, he used to drive it all over but when the engine made noises and when he could afford another car he would only drive the A once in a while and finally he parked it and now wants to get it running again. We asked him how many times he adjusted the shims for the bearings, he said what shims? We convinced him to let us take a look at the engine before he sends it out for a rebuild.
 
Ah Bill that's not me. I assure you. I'm just trying to learn from others mistakes. I'm not buying anything new just trying to keeps junk on the road.
 
Just bought a `29 Model A and am trying to get used to the "Burp" overflow that happens every time I drive the car.
My system is Very Clean and runs clean antifreeze.
I was told by other Model A,ers that I need to get rid of the original "Honeycomb" radiator. It is original and flows very clean.
Is a new four core "brassworks" radiator the way to go?
My car also has a leakless water-pump on it, and some say I need a restrictor in the top hose.
If so what size does it need to be reduced to?
Also thinking about an overflow tank to reduce fluid loss.
 
Welcome to the forum Mr. Bill I see this is your first post.

I've learned a lot more about my car since I started this post.

How do you know the radiator flows well?
Like others have said above try to fix things before you start buying things.
The radiator will find its own level. If the baffle is in the top tank you may not be able to see this level.
After I did a lot of vinegar work I put a thermostat and temp gauge in my car and it has been fine. A temp gauge gives lots of piece if mind. We regularly see triple temps in the summer at my end of California and my car does fine now. I do top it off from time to time but I it always takes about the same amount.
 
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Yo, Other Bill,
Honeycomb radiators are SUPERB, if they're clean & open. They have a LOT of surface area to dissipate the heat.
Their only problem is that they CAN'T BE RODDED OUT, if they get plugged up bad.
Chrysler Corp. used them for MANY YEARS!
Bill W.
 
Welcome Bill
maybe its a simple fix like having the level set correctly.. it should only be filled to the level of the baffle inside the top tank..
 
Do as Tom W says. He has helped me manny times and he helped me on this also. I ran mine that way for over a month and what a bunch of junk came out. Car ran nice and cool after that and I run with only 2.5 gal.
 
I have been using an overflow tank that I picked up at AutoZone for over a year and it has been great. Cost was $8 plus tax. ( http://www.autozone.com/heating-and...-smaller-vehicles/360489/?_requestid=14691973 )

The install was simple as the hose that comes with the tank is just the right size to slip over the bottom of the overflow pipe on the radiator and long enough for me to hand the tank from the radiator support rod back by the firewall. This hose connects to the bottom of the tank. I also added an additional hose from the top of the tank that runs down the firewall to under the car. This is "just in case" the tank were to overflow it would not throw coolant all over the engine and starter.

I then changed the gasket in my moto-meter to an o-ring to make a positive seal and filled the radiator to the very top, removing all air in the system. (the system is still an open system as there is no restriction on the overflow tube)

As the system heats up the water expands into the tank and when the system cools down it sucks the coolant back into the radiator.

Although the tank is not visible unless you fold the hood back I have since painted all but a vertical stripe flat black, as well as the hoses. As long as I see that there is coolant in the tank I know the radiator is full.
 
fiddlybits said:
I have been using an overflow tank that I picked up at AutoZone for over a year and it has been great. Cost was $8 plus tax. ( http://www.autozone.com/heating-and...-smaller-vehicles/360489/?_requestid=14691973 )

The install was simple as the hose that comes with the tank is just the right size to slip over the bottom of the overflow pipe on the radiator and long enough for me to hand the tank from the radiator support rod back by the firewall. This hose connects to the bottom of the tank. I also added an additional hose from the top of the tank that runs down the firewall to under the car. This is "just in case" the tank were to overflow it would not throw coolant all over the engine and starter.

I then changed the gasket in my moto-meter to an o-ring to make a positive seal and filled the radiator to the very top, removing all air in the system. (the system is still an open system as there is no restriction on the overflow tube)

As the system heats up the water expands into the tank and when the system cools down it sucks the coolant back into the radiator.

Although the tank is not visible unless you fold the hood back I have since painted all but a vertical stripe flat black, as well as the hoses. As long as I see that there is coolant in the tank I know the radiator is full.
Click to expand...
If you install, in the same manner, an Early VOLVO Expansion Tank, which has a 4 1/2 LB cap, "VOILLE, YOU HAVE AN INSTANT PRESSURIZED SYSTEM"
I've tiped this 17 times & NOBODY ever responded! (ONLY THE DOG:cool:)
Bill W.:(
 
Put this turkey on my 30 CCPU..helped with overflow blowing on my motor and do not have to fill radiator every day. bot this on ebay 35 bucks.
 

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