Overflow tank

BILL WILLIAMSON said:
If you install, in the same manner, an Early VOLVO Expansion Tank, which has a 4 1/2 LB cap, "VOILLE, YOU HAVE AN INSTANT PRESSURIZED SYSTEM"
I've tiped this 17 times & NOBODY ever responded! (ONLY THE DOG:cool:)
Bill W.:(
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That's all well and good...but I didn't want a pressurized system as it has the original radiator, and although it is free flowing, it is obvious during cleaning that the metal is thin in spot. While this isn't a problem when there is no pressure, the minute it pressurizes I fear it will spring leaks.
 
On mine I had a problem with burping water out the overflow I fixed it by ensuring I had a tight cap and placed a 3lb release valve on the bottom of the radiator overflow pipe . Never really develops much pressure but never burps water anymore either -Karl
 
MikeK said:
Not true. They work fine with a non-pressurized system and no special cap. You only need to have an air-tight seal on the radiator cap and run the existing overflow tube into the bottom of a container, below the reserve fluid level.

The system on my 160B works fine, I never have to add, nor never lose coolant. Of course, it is not a fix for other cooling problems or exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system. I have a 2" diameter x 15" tank and the level goes up/down about 2" between hot and cold. I need to paint it black.
6f875677-dced-4de6-adb6-ee76992362d3.jpg
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Why are there 2 hoses
 
The overflow tank is a good idea because both my Model A's push some coolant out of the overflow. I am under the impression that all Model A's push some coolant out of the overflow when the engine is at cruising speed (50 to 60 mph).
 
fiddlybits said:
I have been using an overflow tank that I picked up at AutoZone for over a year and it has been great. Cost was $8 plus tax. ( http://www.autozone.com/heating-and...-smaller-vehicles/360489/?_requestid=14691973 )

The install was simple as the hose that comes with the tank is just the right size to slip over the bottom of the overflow pipe on the radiator and long enough for me to hand the tank from the radiator support rod back by the firewall. This hose connects to the bottom of the tank. I also added an additional hose from the top of the tank that runs down the firewall to under the car. This is "just in case" the tank were to overflow it would not throw coolant all over the engine and starter.

I then changed the gasket in my moto-meter to an o-ring to make a positive seal and filled the radiator to the very top, removing all air in the system. (the system is still an open system as there is no restriction on the overflow tube)

As the system heats up the water expands into the tank and when the system cools down it sucks the coolant back into the radiator.

Although the tank is not visible unless you fold the hood back I have since painted all but a vertical stripe flat black, as well as the hoses. As long as I see that there is coolant in the tank I know the radiator is full.
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This works great. I put on years ago, set it on the firewall ledge of my 29 tudor. When engine cools, it draws it back into the radiator. I uses the radiator that came with the Model A, 32 years ago. I run a Snider 6.0 head, touring cam, inserted bearings, 3.54 rear end and curse at 50-55 mph. No problems. and runs about 170-180 on an average day. When it is 100+ F out side it runs about 190. What better could you ask.
 
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A simple/basic system like MikeK's will CONSTANTLY maintain a HIGHER level of water in the top tank & the GREATER VOLUME of water WILL aid in proper cooling. Water level "just to the top of the tubes" AIN'T ENOUGH!!---May as well jist PEE in the RADUMATOR, 3 TIMES A WEEK! AND, be sure to drink plenty of JET-FUEL COFFEE!
My health freak friends---"Bill, be sure to drink PLENTY of WATER"---"Do you think I'm STUPID"??---That's why I LOVE my Dog, he doesn't say STUPID things!
POOR design, is the CULPRIT, if it would have worked as intended, engine would have warmed up, water would expand, push out the excess & level would have STAYED at the top of the overflow tube. On cool down, water contracted & dropped BELOW the overflow tube. On next start up, water expanded & would have been to the top of the overflow tube, again.
BUT, due to swirling & splash over, the design FAILED. THEN, the onslaught of baffles, bend this, curve this, etc, ALL BANDAIDS! The Nail helps more than any of these. SHURE CURE: a 160 thermostat & a simple recovery tank! A Mechanic for Navajo Truck Lines invented the tanks, to keep their trucks cool, on OLD HIGHWAY 66.--I once tiped the WHOLE story about it. Try SEARCH.
Bill W.
 
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BILL WILLIAMSON said:
A simple/basic system like MikeK's will CONSTANTLY maintain a HIGHER level of water in the top tank & the GREATER VOLUME of water WILL aid in proper cooling. Water level "just to the top of the tubes" AIN'T ENOUGH!!---May as well jist PEE in the RADUMATOR, 3 TIMES A WEEK! AND, be sure to drink plenty of JET-FUEL COFFEE!
My health freak friends---"Bill, be sure to drink PLENTY of WATER"---"Do you think I'm STUPID"??---That's why I LOVE my Dog, he doesn't say STUPID things!
POOR design, is the CULPRIT, if it would have worked as intended, engine would have warmed up, water would expand, push out the excess & level would have STAYED at the top of the overflow tube. On cool down, water contracted & dropped BELOW the overflow tube. On next start up, water expanded & would have been to the top of the overflow tube, again.
BUT, due to swirling & splash over, the design FAILED. THEN, the onslaught of baffles, bend this, curve this, etc, ALL BANDAIDS! The Nail helps more than any of these. SHURE CURE: a 160 thermostat & a simple recovery tank! A Mechanic for Navajo Truck Lines invented the tanks, to keep their trucks cool, on OLD HIGHWAY 66.--I once tiped the WHOLE story about it. Try SEARCH.
Bill W.
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Hi Bill.


Thanks for the great explanation. A little theory and a lot of common sense that I was unaware of.


Just to be sure I understand - Sounds like you are in favor of running with a thermostat with bypass and an overflow?
 
The very first cars to use overflow tanks were Model Ts and Model As used by Ralph Bagnold and others in the exploration of the Libyan desert - see my "Libyan Sands" post elsewhere in this forum. This link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1HH...ature=youtu.be

will take you to Bagnold's 1930 movie footage where you can clearly see the hose protruding from the radiator cap of his Model A cars and the collecting-can on the running board. Bagnold has been credited with inventing the idea, but it was actually first used on Model T's in the desert during WW1.
 
Mad Mac said:
The very first cars to use overflow tanks were Model Ts and Model As used by Ralph Bagnold and others in the exploration of the Libyan desert - see my "Libyan Sands" post elsewhere in this forum. This link:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1HH...ature=youtu.be

will take you to Bagnold's 1930 movie footage where you can clearly see the hose protruding from the radiator cap of his Model A cars and the collecting-can on the running board. Bagnold has been credited with inventing the idea, but it was actually first used on Model T's in the desert during WW1.
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Click on the link and U-tube says the video does not exist
 
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