Oil Leak

Gezer

Gezer

Member
Have a 40 Ford with a 52 stock flathead. It has an oil leak on both ends of the engine. Is there a good "stop leak" product for such a problem? I do not want to tear the engine out. Any one have a "magic" trick, that works?
 
how big is the leak if its minor? [a few drops ] might just have to live with it. There is no magic wand or potion to cure oil leaks ! just depends how much it worries you as to what you do with it
 
Out of all the "stop leak" products is there one that works better than others in your opinion? The leaks leave a +/- 12 inch drip area over time.
 
Napa sells a large 3x5 or so drip pan. There's one under every brass era car still in existence as they all leak, and most likely live in an expensive garage. Except my 09 Maxwell that doesn't have it so good.
 
what weight oil, reguler or synthetic. fords do not like to be overfilled. front leak can be curde with engine in car--sort of a pain but doable, rear leak requires a bit more work but can also be done with engine in car
 
Gezer said:
Have a 40 Ford with a 52 stock flathead. It has an oil leak on both ends of the engine. Is there a good "stop leak" product for such a problem? I do not want to tear the engine out. Any one have a "magic" trick, that works?
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I'm afraid for most of us this is par for the course. Mine only leak a little bit when hot -Oil drip pain collects that. I know of people who say theirs don't drip but I suspect ultimately they will
 
I seem to recall a while back there was a member on here making and selling 'diapers' that attached under the oil pan.
 
Old Fords like to mark their territory. If you are using synthetic oil, you may want to switch to conventional. The type of seals in the Flatheads can have trouble with the new synthetic oil.
 
I think the perpetually seeping engine is a result of the "slinger" era. We're talking about to an 8BA flathead here. With care in installation, they can be made leak-proof. The last couple of Fel-Pro gasket sets I have installed came with specific instructions and a gauge to be used in installing the rope seals properly. It even included a razor knife for proper trimming. Neither of the engines that I put together leaked. It is a fairly finicky process.

On the last one, I decided that replacing the Ford oil pump with a new unit from Speedway was a good idea. It was not. I ended up with a good-running engine that did not leak. It did have lower than normal oil pressure, so I decided to replace the pump. The engine had only a couple of hours on it, and I was extremely careful removing and replacing the pan, but after re-assembly, it developed a slight leak (but normal oil pressure). In the end, any slight variation in installation or even age and wear will result in an engine with a slight leak. Be prepared to live with it.

BTW, after purchasing a one piece front seal and reviewing the installation procedure, I decided to go with the original rope seal and the one piece went in the trash.
 
High mileage type oil MAY help , the only thing that is different in it is a chemical that causes your seal to swell according to a parts counter person here.
Just my two cents , Tim
 
Non-Detergent is a poor choice in this day and age. There are many, many better choices.

Why do people keep doing this?
 
tubman said:
Non-Detergent is a poor choice in this day and age. There are many, many better choices.

Why do people keep doing this?
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Cuz they have heard that detergent oil will break-loose old sludge which will damage the engine. But I have never heard anyone claim that actually happened to their engine after switching to detergent oil. I suspect it is another old wives tale that never dies. The theory sounds logical enough to live forever.
 
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Ford Freak said:
Yes, X2!
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Unless you're doing some racing or other extreme stuff, I'd save my money. I buy whatever is on sale at the local "Dollar General" and do fine. This oil is so much superior to what was available back in the day that there is no question. You have to realize that flathead has relatively low valve spring pressure because of the design of the engine. "ZDDP" is not a concern for the same reason.

If your engine is so "sludged up" that you are afraid of running detergent oil, it needs a rebuild anyway.

For those that don't like what I'm saying, any commercially oil available these days with "50" in it's viscosity rating has at least 1100 ppm ZDDP.
 
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any good modern day quality oil works, Just need to get the viscosity range right and that depends on your average temp range . you wouldn't run 25w/60 in Anchorage same as 5/30w in the tropics ,talk to your supplier .
 
I am curious. How many of the cars belonging to people on this forum have any "sludge" in them? That is left over from the days of paraffin-based oil that trapped combustion byproducts (carbon) into a semi solid coating of muck. Every one of my running flatheads (5) have been completely torn down, thoroughly cleaned, machined, rebuilt and put back together with new. parts that have been cleaned. With any modern oil (I don't use synthetic in my old cars) that has extra zinc the engine should outlive us. If I had an engine that after looking in the valley had sludge, I wouldn't even run it without going clear through it.
There used to be a Redi-Strip franchise in Seattle that cleaned 3 blocks for me before they were (rightly) shut down for illegal disposal of the chemicals used into a close river. Wish they were legit and still around as I have never seen anything that made a block cleaner. The only sludge I have seen has been in some stuck core engine that has been sitting around for 60 years, not anything that runs.
 
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