Normal stud?

After looking it over it actually looks like the head had a crack in that stud hole. Looks like I'll have to get it out since I don't want to open the hole on a new head and have it fail the same way. I would image it wouldn't weaken it that much but it does seem like a bit of material yo remove. I'd rather not chance it since it seems to be the area that is the cause of what I am now dealing with.
 
J Franklin said:
Is the hole in the head a bigger bore for that one stud? It loos like it would have to be. I have a block with studs that are larger on the block threads but the same dia. as the standard studs through the head, kind of a step stud.
Click to expand...

Did you replace the stud? If so where did you find a stud that is stepped?
 
The step studs were made at a machine shop. I didn't know of any other fix back then. Now you can get thread-serts (I think that is what they are called).
 
jaguar6165 said:
After looking it over it actually looks like the head had a crack in that stud hole. Looks like I'll have to get it out since I don't want to open the hole on a new head and have it fail the same way. I would image it wouldn't weaken it that much but it does seem like a bit of material yo remove. I'd rather not chance it since it seems to be the area that is the cause of what I am now dealing with.
Click to expand...

After using Kroil and a pipe wrench to try removing the sleeve, if it doesn't come loose from the stud, then use a torch to heat the sleeve.
 
Using heat and wax to free a stuck head stud

Head studs can be heated until they turn a dull red. Heat as close to the block as possible. As you heat the stud, try to direct the flame away from the cast iron (block). Let the stud cool for a bit until the red is gone and then strike the stud, straight down, with a hammer. Don't get crazy with the hammer. Have some paraffin wax near while completing the procedure and right after striking the stud, intermittently hold the wax against the base of the stud and block. If the stud is too hot, the wax will go up in smoke, wait a short time and try again. Try to keep a shallow pool of wax around the base of the stud. When the stud reaches the right temp, it will draw some wax between the stud's threads and the block. The wax will lube the threads to allow for easier removal. I use this method often and it almost always works the first time. With the extra material on your custom stud shrouding the threads, you may need to repeat a couple times.
 
Last edited:
Dave in MN said:
As you heat the stud, try to direct the flame away from the cast iron (block). The studs can be heated until they turn a dull red. Heat as close to the block as possible. Let the stud cool for a bit until the red is gone and then strike the stud, straight down, with a hammer. Don't get crazy with the hammer. Have some paraffin wax near while completing the procedure and right after striking the stud, hold the wax against the base of the stud and block. When the stud reaches the right temp, it will draw some wax between the studs threads and the block. The wax will lube the threads to allow for easier removal. You may need to repeat this process a few times. I use this method often and it almost always works.
Click to expand...

Standard hammer, rubber, or dead blow?
 
Ballpean hammer the heavier the hammer the lighter the taps. You don't need to drive the stud through the block, your just trying to break the rust seal! I like a Big Hammer and tap
lightly ( I was told don't force it get a bigger hammer by my first mentor )
 
Big hammer said:
Ballpean hammer the heavier the hammer the lighter the taps. You don't need to drive the stud through the block, your just trying to break the rust seal! I like a Big Hammer and tap
lightly ( I was told don't force it get a bigger hammer by my first mentor )
Click to expand...

Big hammer, I like your forum name. Regular, heavy, hammer but not a real heavy blow. It is hard to describe but I think you have properly done it. Thanks.
Good Day!
 
Well I was able to get ahold of a stud socket and removed 5 without any issues. Also discovered the sleeve was only slid onto the stud. I still have no idea why the sleeve would be there and the head drilled to fit over the sleeve. Unfortunately after that good news I managed to snap the rear driver side stud off. Couldn't be a more inconvenient one to break. The other 9 don't want to budge so I will use heat and pb blaster over the next few days. Once those are out I hope I can try to weld a washer and nut to the broken stud. Hopefully it will work.
I thought all was going well with my progress, but obviously not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top