No spark to plugs or distributor

R

REByar

Member
Hi All,
I have not been on here for a while because my 1928 Tudor has been running just fine. Just regular maintenance. Last week I startarted the Tudor. Keep in mind i have not driven in it about 3 months. I started right up- for about 40 seconds. Then it stopped. I tried to start it again and it would not start. The batter is fine and I checked the plugs. I use the original style plugs. I cleaned the plugs but they seemed fine. The gap was good. I hooked up a 6v battery charger and let it run for about 15 min. It how showes 6.3v. But when I turn on the key the ammeter does not move. It stays at zero. Even when I am trying to start it. Everything else works-lights and horn and dash light. The ammeter does move to the left when I turn on the light or use the horn. I looked at the points and they appear clean. What has me baffled is why did it run for 40 seconds and then stop. I also checked to make sure the carb was getting fuel. And it is. I checked the filter in the carb and it was clean. What am I missing. I have not had any issues with this car starting in a very long time. Any ideas would be most appreciated.
Thanks-Randy
 
Sound like you used the fuel that was in the carb bowl and no more came to the jets..But first thing is to check there's a spark at the HT lead going into the distributor ...if good spark on HT lead consider stuck float valve in carb ? undo drain plug at bottom of carb and check flow ..... But 90 % of failures are ignition I use this attached guide ...it's so useful I have one laminated and keep it in the car !View attachment p1 trouble shooting (1).pdfView attachment p2 trouble shooting (1).pdf
 
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Ignition or fuel. Since you are not seeing current at the ammeter the points would be the first thing to check. In the past, when the car was running, did you see a discharge at the ammeter when starting the car. The junction box can be wired two ways, one way you see the ignition current and the other way you don't.

The points can get dirty and corroded from just sitting. With the points open and closed measure the voltage at the moveable point. Open it should be battery voltage, closed they should be zero or close to zero. If not zero, clean them. If no voltage when open then look for a burned out fuse or other reason.

Since the car was running for a short time then it is likely fuel. John in Post #2 has the right approach. If you open the drain on the bottom of the carburetor you should get good flow out of there. Do that outside with a fire extinguisher handy.

I have to ask this question because I have been guilty of this: Do you have the fuel valve at the bottom of the tank open and is there fuel in the tank?
 
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You are right those doc are great. I will print them out and see what I am missing. I will check the spark at the HT and see what I can get. Its just odd that it did run for 40 or so seconds and then stopped. And if I hold the choke too long I can flood the carb. I will check the float first. Then go from there. Thank You.
 
When I turn the key the ammeter needle would go to the right. And then as it warmed up it would slowly go back to zero. Now the needle does not move at all when I turn the key. It does move to the left, discharge, when I turn the lights on or use the horn. But I will start with the carb and check the float and fuel flow. I did switch out the coil thinking maybe there was something wrong with the one I had. But it did not make any difference. Thanks for your advice. I will get back you and John once I figure it out.
 
This was discussed in a similar post not that long ago. Both P.S. and nkaminar suggested a good way to confirm that the electrical system is as it should be.

With the key on and the points open, use a digital volt meter and with the positive lead connected to a good ground (preferably right to the + battery post) measure the voltage between the following points, in order:

1- Battery negative post. Make a note of the exact voltage.
2- Fuse block or lug on the starter.
3- The terminal box lugs (both sides)
4- Both sides of the ammeter.
5- Ignition switch terminal with the wire from the ammeter or terminal box going to it.
6- At the points.

If any of these test points measures more than 0.2 volts different than the battery post, you will have isolated the issue.

These were Paul’s words, I was too lazy to tape them again. and I have done this same thing myself twice. For me I found the issue about 1 mile from my house and I found only 1.7 volts at the points and a large current draw on the ammeter after investigation things. The issue was one of the ammeter wires got against the fuel tank behind the panel and was shorting things out. Took some time to rub through the paint. If you find nothing wrong electronically then you can focus on the fuel system.
 
Very likely the points need cleaning. With the engine turned over to close the points, take a small piece of 400 grit wet and dry sand paper and fold it in half. Insert it between the points and rub it back and forth. You may have to do that several times. Then take a piece of cardboard and rub that through the points to clean out the sand paper residue. Finally snap the point closed by pulling them open with your finger and letting go.
 
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