Newer engine internals

Great Lakes Greg

Well-known member
My engine had some vibration issues, so I took it to Rich Faluka in Skokie for a full rebuild. It had 600 miles on it from the previous build by somebody else. I have 40 over pistons, rods with babbit, and adjustable lifters. It does not appear that any of these parts have much value, despite being nearly new. Is it destined to be garage art, or am I just not looking in the right "for sale" venues?
 

Attachments

  • 20180318_133643.jpg
    20180318_133643.jpg
    66.5 KB · Views: 296
Well, it has value to someone, ....no matter if that someone is the scrap dealer. The 0.040 pistons have value to a home mechanic who possibly has an 0.030" engine that is tired and wants to 'overhaul' his engine. The rods fall into finding someone who has a crank journal that is the same size as the rods were bored to. The same with the tappets as far as finding someone wanting to upgrade their non-adjustable ones.
 
I am amazed by the number of posts about rebuilt engines that end up being no good.

600 miles? No guarantees? What are people getting for their money?

Am I alone on this?

How big a problem is this?
 
Put those up in the Swap Meet section. Somebody will take them if the price is right. Or just sell them for the cost of shipping.
 
Some people think that just putting new parts in a engine is a rebuild. Lots of people think Mechanics are not to bright. But that is not true a real mechanic is more than a parts changer.
 
I am amazed by the number of posts about rebuilt engines that end up being no good.

600 miles? No guarantees? What are people getting for their money?

Am I alone on this?

How big a problem is this?
No I don't understand it either even with very little experience hey man that cleans that motor up good and replaces wore out parts what's good parts and gets it lubed up good before starting the motor should sure as shooting get more than 600 miles from an engine with the modern parts and better lubrication I should think between 80 and 100000 miles should not be out of the question on a good rebuild that is of course if the motor is taken care of properly

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk
 
My engine had some vibration issues, so I took it to Rich Faluka in Skokie for a full rebuild. It had 600 miles on it from the previous build by somebody else. I have 40 over pistons, rods with babbit, and adjustable lifters. It does not appear that any of these parts have much value, despite being nearly new. Is it destined to be garage art, or am I just not looking in the right "for sale" venues?

Did you find the source of the vibration? And am curious as to the need for another full rebuild?
 
So much can cause vibration in these for bangers that if everyone with a vibration gets them rebuilt we'll find ourselves on a waiting list. I had a fan way out of balance that caused some concern. New one cured the problem and I got a lot of extra miles from that engine. Dont' know for sure, but last I heard it was still driving fine.
 
The crankshaft is a source for bad vibration. I have found many with the flywheel flange ground off center, center main with run out. New pistons and rods are not going to fix that.
 
Is it just an optical illusion? In the picture of the old parts, the pistons all look to be different sizes. I also agree with others as to why replace good parts.
 
My engine had some vibration issues, so I took it to Rich Faluka in Skokie for a full rebuild. It had 600 miles on it from the previous build by somebody else. I have 40 over pistons, rods with babbit, and adjustable lifters. It does not appear that any of these parts have much value, despite being nearly new. Is it destined to be garage art, or am I just not looking in the right "for sale" venues?


There are a lot of things that have to be checked or fixed in a rebuild.


1. Crank Ground on center line. Stroke the same on both sides.


2. Rear flange has to be trued, when still set up on center line grind.


3. The flywheel housing HAS to be level, side to side, 9 to 3, and top and bottom has to indicate the same at 12, and 6 o'clock, but does not have to be the same as 9 and 3, but have to be the same at 12, and 6.


4. Flywheel after grinding, should be balanced with a new pressure plate mounted on the flywheel. Flywheel checked for nicks, dirt on mounting area.


5. All rods should be checked for Alignment.


6. All rods should be Balanced, and all with in 10 grams of total rod weight, if not less, before you start. If maybe one rod is say 30 grams more, you won't have much left when your done.


7. All pistons, should be balanced. All wrist pin heighth should be the same.


8. All valves should have hard seats, and they should all be level with the top of the block. New or reground cam. No excessive play in cam bearings.


9. Compression chamber in head, one different then the next.


All these things, or a combination of these things, can make things extra blurry in the rear view mirror.


Herm.
 
My engine had some vibration issues, so I took it to Rich Faluka in Skokie for a full rebuild. It had 600 miles on it from the previous build by somebody else. I have 40 over pistons, rods with babbit, and adjustable lifters. It does not appear that any of these parts have much value, despite being nearly new. Is it destined to be garage art, or am I just not looking in the right "for sale" venues?



Hey Greg,
Disturbing news to learn of you misfortune with your engine.
The deed is done now, but I'm curious as why. What, if anything, was found to try explaining that engine had to be redone...again ? And, why couldn't all/any of these new parts shown be useful in any new build ??


I'm sure that you just didn't disassemble a new 600 mi engine just because !


What information did you receive that made you go this route ?
I think that a lot of guys are thinking same thing and your answers/reasons might be of value to us all.
 
Last edited:
The deal is, I opted for a full touring long block rebuild with a counterbalanced crank. All the internals where replaced because if my parts were to be reused, Rich could not offer a warranty. He found some other sketchy things, like loose valve seats and the block had not been decked properly. I figured if I was that deep, it would be foolish not to go all in for the piece of mind and warranted work. I have no excuse for the other guy I previously hired, except you get what you pay for. Tough lesson for sure, but I can make more money tomorrow.
 
I would say you did the right thing. Who knows what the quality of those parts are. I would not have reused them either. The builder can not take a chance on some one else work, unless he knows the builder. You have no idea what he might have tried on those parts. I have seen guys beat on pistons to try and make them oval to fit a over bored cylinder.
 
The deal is, I opted for a full touring long block rebuild with a counterbalanced crank. All the internals where replaced because if my parts were to be reused, Rich could not offer a warranty. He found some other sketchy things, like loose valve seats and the block had not been decked properly. I figured if I was that deep, it would be foolish not to go all in for the piece of mind and warranted work. I have no excuse for the other guy I previously hired, except you get what you pay for. Tough lesson for sure, but I can make more money tomorrow.



Thanks Greg for explanation of situation ! Makes great sense too.
Man, I see red when hearing of what was done to you ! Some that I've seen done like that do not have the money coming tomorrow. I'm glad that you can look at it that way also, as peace of mind is priceless, IMV !
IT has happened to me once years back. Some of these so called builders have no principles. There is one in this area. I have seen more than one of his 'products' under friends work benches. They are reminders...both V8 flathead and A and B engines !


Maybe a good question for discussion here...is just how do you go about getting a GOOD warranty set forth...before work is begun. Probably need a lawyer, eh !
 
Back
Top