Newbie electric issues

thewolf said:
Los Angeles. how do I find a club? Is it through this forum? Would love to join one.
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Since you are in Woodland Hills (I grew up in Tarzana), there is a very active San Fernando Valley Model A Club. It looks like they meet at Galpin Ford on the 3rd Thursday of the month. We also have a club in Thousand Oaks - Conejo Valley Model A Ford Club. We meet the 1st Wednesday of each month. Contact information for both clubs is on the MAFCA web site. I hope we see you at a meeting.
 
"With the engine stopped so the points are open, turn the key on and short the points contacts with a screwdriver while holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut. Each time the screwdriver is removed (points opened) you should have a hot blue spark."

I got spark when the points were closed and not the other way around. Also, I used a test light on the coil terminal and got them both hot when the key was off (as it should) but also both hot when the key is on (only one side should be off).

Does it mean something is grounded?
 
"I got spark when the points were closed and not the other way around. Also, I used a test light on the coil terminal and got them both hot when the key was off (as it should) but also both hot when the key is on (only one side should be off)."

Do you mean the points were closed and you shorted across them with a screwdriver and got a spark from the coil?

Have the points closed and key on, then use your test light on both coil terminals, and on both points contacts. Let us know if it lights on any of these places, then repeat the test with the points open and key on and let us know again what happens.
 
Tom and all. Thanks!
Electricity is done. I replaced the high tension coil wire along with 2 of the connectors that go to the coil and the solenoid starter (I don't have the push rod version).
Had to adjust the point gap and started to have spark. All tests mentioned by Tom passed, so all is great.
Now for the bad news. I have an air filter on the carb and when trying to crank, it back fires through the carb. Car still doesnt start, but I am getting closer...
 
I wonder if someone set the timing 180 degrees off.
When the book says to set the rotor opposite #1 terminal, that means NEXT TO.
 
When the pin drops into the cam gear detent, the rotor should point roughly at the right headlamp. The rotor turns CCW and the trailing edge of the rotor should line up with the trailing edge of the #1 distributor contact.
 
Here's A picture showing the position of the rotor when the timing pin drops into the cam gear detent.

BTW, my rotor looks different because I balance them.
 

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Sorry - was out for a couple of days. Bob - I just replied to your PM.

Tom/Bob - you were right - I was 180 off... Good news is that the car started today and ran for about 10-15 seconds before i switched it off.
It was a combination of:
1. Lower plate cable on distro was grounding.
2. Fuel line had a fuel filter on it that was shut. Replaced and got fuel to flow to the carb.
3. Spark plugs had carbon on it. Had to clean it up with a brush.

Still have to do the following:
1. Fix the gas pedal.
2. Fix the broken choke rod.
3. Clean the gas tank.

Carb is still flooded and leaking - so i need to make sure the carb float bowl is not stuck.
 
Car is driving. I stil have back fires though and hesitation when revving up the engine. Spark lever is all the way down.
 
I should also mention, that I can start it with the lever all the way down.
I will check the timing tomorrow.
Thanks Tom - you've been a great help!
 
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