Newbie electric issues

As others have pointed out your Batt. cable is wrong, a 12v cable does not work the same as a 6v cable, spring for the proper cable.
Your wiring looks a little rough to say the least.
Remove and replace would be my advice, start from scratch, follow the diagram and you can't go wrong.
Congrats on your new car and have fun.
Keep us posted on your progress, the folks on here love to help.
 
the cutoff switch on the firewall has the correct cable to the battery. I would do a rewiring after you get the engine started. Do one thing at a time, and start a journal to document what is done. Use the rifle approach, instead of the shotgun approach.
Bob
 
Thank you all. I don't want to go to far with modifications to the existing wiring unless I absolutely have to. As of now:
1. Battery is functional but weak. I got it off the car and am charging it separately with no connectivity to it.
2. I found out the cable that goes into the distro was loose. I opened it up and the metal piece that it is supposed to connect to was broken, so that may cause some ground issues on the distro. I will have to replace that.
3. The coil seems to be original. I disconnected it for now, as I suspect it may draw some battery even though the car is off.
4. I will wait for the keys (should get them on Monday) just to make sure I dont mess anything up.
5. Will replace the 12V cable with a 6V.
6. I verified the ground cable is ok, but wouldnt hurt to disconnect and clean up the crap/sand the sapce in between the frame and the cable.
7. Replace the entire wiring - I agree, but will take the "riffle" approach as mentioned above ^^^

Question - can the connections to the coil be reversed? or does it not matter? In other words, can I switch between the two cables? I followed this youtube video and my results were opposite (around 1:50 through the video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXA6izLrTOc
 
Looks like only 1 wire to coil. Won't start like that. I'd suggest getting a Model A fuse block for one, throwing out the connecter on the firewall you have, a new wiring harness and wire stock. Stock wiring is very simple.
Get rid of this


Do you know how to start a Model A? It is not the same as a new car:

Pull up spark advance rod(retard all the way)
turn GAV closed and open one turn
turn on gas valve
turn on ignition
put foot on starter
pull GAV to choke
immediately push in GAV

when it starts advance spark about 3/4 and take off!

If it doesn't start soemthing is wrong

don't leave ignition on because if points are closed you can overheat and ruin the coil

Get from a Model A house:
Main wiring harness from light switch to headlights etc
Battery cable
ground strap
Wire from ignition switch to wire block
Wire from wire block to generastor
Wire from wire block to coil
Should be less than $100
Wiring diagram
Model A fuse block

This would give you complete new wiring

Once you get these then maybe we can help you start it!
 
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you can check for a draw by removing either one of the battery cables and putting a test light in line...it should not light at all.
it should still start if the coil wires are reversed, but that will cause a lack of power condtion when driving..
 
Brentwood Bob said:
the cutoff switch on the firewall has the correct cable to the battery. I would do a rewiring after you get the engine started. Do one thing at a time, and start a journal to document what is done. Use the rifle approach, instead of the shotgun approach.
Bob
Click to expand...
Bob,
Isn't that a later, 12 Volt starter solenoid & not a cut off switch?
HMMMMN, looks like a 12 Volt solenoid WILL work on 6 VOLTS??
I once bought a '32 Coupe, with about 2 1/2 MILES of CURLY wiring!! Strangely enough, EVERYTHING WORKED! I drew my own "custom" diagram & re-wired it with about 80 Ft. of wire. I was concerned, as the R/R of the headliner & adjacent panels had suffered a FIRE, sometime in the past! !
Bill W.
 
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All I can add is that I am not sure of the function of the heavy posts and that particular part. It could be either a selenoid, or switch.
I would prefer to see all new wiring harnesses to eliminate the great unknowns.
I don't think all that add on stuff was put on in one session. and I don't like fires.
Mine, or anyone else's!
Bob
 
I think it may be a switch like this one. I don't see a rod for the
original style starter switch.

Bob
 

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Brentwood Bob said:
All I can add is that I am not sure of the function of the heavy posts and that particular part. It could be either a selenoid, or switch.
I would prefer to see all new wiring harnesses to eliminate the great unknowns.
I don't think all that add on stuff was put on in one session. and I don't like fires.
Mine, or anyone else's!
Bob
Click to expand...
It's like my friends' later solenoid, his 351 Clevelands' starter wouldn't shut off, he tore the starter apart & found NO problem, took it & paid hard cash to have it rebuilt, no dice ! He showed me that when he put the cable on, the starter RAN.---"You got a small ball pein"?-------One rap on the solenoid & ALL WAS WELL:D
And they call me STUPID???????????
Bill W.
 
For the moment your battery cable will work, but you'll get more starter power with the correct size cable. I would buy the correct cable from the Model A parts houses. I'd also use the original starter switch, but for now as long as the battery is charged and the motor cranks, I'd just work on getting spark. Since the car hasn't run in 3 years, I'd bet you need to clean the points. A points file only costs a buck or two, then you can give the points a couple strokes to clean off any oxidation.

With the engine stopped so the points are open, turn the key on and short the points contacts with a screwdriver while holding the coil wire 1/4" from a head nut. Each time the screwdriver is removed (points opened) you should have a hot blue spark. If you don't get a good spark then see if the movable contact has 6 volts. If it doesn't then see if both coil terminals have 6 volts. If both coil terminals have 6 volts with the points open, then move to the switch and see if both switch terminals have 6 volts with the key on and points open. If they do, then the cable may be screwed into the distributor too much, or the lower plate wire may be touching ground.

Once you get it running, then you can work on replacing that wiring mess. I'd make the original starter switch work and buy the push rod for it, then replace the engine harness and get rid of the other wires and odd starter switch. Someone may have bent the original starter switch contact strap to stay in contact all the time. Just bend it back so it works as intended.

You can buy the correct battery cable, engine harness and all the other wires (except the lighting harness) for about $50. We haven't seen the lighting harness, so for now lets hope it's OK. As Mitch mentioned, put a volt meter or test light between the battery post and cable to be sure you don't have a drain when everything is off.
 
Bunch of WEST MARINE SUPPLY stores near Oakland Hills, CA, where you can purchase 0 and 00 gauge cable if you have trouble getting it from the vendors such as Brattons, Snyders, and Mike's A-Ford-Able, all of whom have great catalogs.
I strongly suggest you purchase Model A Ford Instruction Book (Owner's Manual) and Model A Ford Mechanic's Handbook, (red Cover) by Les Andrews, available from Model A Ford Club of America, (MAFCA) as Mike V gave you a link to.
 
Yes. coil was disconnected to avoid additional drainage of the battery. Also disconnected the battery from the car to let it completely charge. I ordered a new COIL, coil bracket, high tension cable for coil, 30" 6V battery cable from MIKES, just to make sure I start fresh. Will also get new wiring just for the ignition part (no lights harness etc).
Seems like my junction box is broken/missing parts or at least I can't see how I can screw in the wing nuts that have all wires connected to.
Anyone has a picture of their junction box with wires properly secured?
 

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