Newbie electric issues

thewolf

thewolf

Junior Member
Hi everyone.
I just got my 28 model A last week (Keys should be mailed later this week).
It came with no battery and (according to previous owner) has been sitting for 3 years without starting. He said it needed a new carb and new battery.
I got a 6v battery from pep boys and connected it (positive to ground).
I couldn't wait for the keys (new toy in the garage - how could I wait), so I opened up the switch panel and connected the two terminals on the ignition switch in order to mimic the keys on/off (with the advice of a friend).

Starter turned on but engine refused to start.
Went through testing the coil with a light bulb and "key" off. Both terminal were hot. Repeated the test with "key" on. Passenger side was off and driver side was on (instead of the other way around). I couldnt detect and spark, so I left it as is and went to cleaning the fuel lines and fuel reservoir.
Went out of town over the weekend just to find out I forgot the "key" on (the connection between the terminals on the ignition switch). Battery was barely able to get the starter going.
I got a Shumacher 6v/12v (auto detect) charger and within 1.5 hours or so the battery was fully charged again and yet, not strong enough to get the starter going? Even the horn didnt have enough power to toot.

Is it possible that I killed the battery completely???
Also = I noticed the coil was hot to a point you can barely touch it. It makes me think, the coil is still draining power?

I'd appreciate any response (except the ones that grill me for the ignition switch...)
Thanks :)
 
original popouts (ignition switch) short out the points when in the locked position so the car can't be hotwired easy---if the car has been modified from stock you should post pictures and descriptions of the modifications so we can give you proper advice
 
Thanks Kurt.
You're saying my method of hotwire is not a recommended one/not reliable?

I don't think there have been any modifications from stock. Coil looks pretty old. Distributor looks like the stock one. Carb looks like stock Although all of the above may be repro.
 
If you were able to connect the two switch terminals, then it sounds like you have a repro switch. Make sure the switch doesn't touch the gas tank, and if it was left on then the coil could well be shot. I saw one go bad after 30 minutes with the key on.
 
I should have added that from the first moment I got the new battery in, the ammeter didnt show any sign of life. I thought it may have been a wiring issue, so i ignore it.
 
The ammeter only moves when current is flowing in or out of the battery. So installing a new battery won't make the needle move, but turning on the lights should make it move to the left, and running the engine should charge the battery and make the needle move to the right.

You may have to polarize the generator or jump across the two cutout terminals if it isn't working.
 
Here are some pics of the switch panel and battery.
 

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And the coil/distro.
 

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While I still believe that the "key" let on is your weak/dead battery problem, you still have electrical issues. As JOHN CT states the cable is the wrong size. Also take the ground strap off the frame, sand the frame and the strap, place a little vaseline on the frame and bolt it together again. Clean grounds are your best friend.

239378
 
Your switch looks like the one that came on my 29 Tudor. I had to bend the terminals to the side so they didn't rub on the gas tank.
 
Mike is correct in that after this much time, you may have lost a good ground contact between the center frame cross member and the ground strap. Get good metal to metal contact at that point for starters.
 
Follow each wire, make sure you're hooked up right, clean all your grounds (very important)
You can disconnect the lights and horn and just concentrate on the engine first, once you get the engine running and charging right, you can start hooking up the lights and horn at your leisure.
Do a full tune-up, points, condenser, plugs, cap and rotor and change your oil.
You can re-build your carb a lot cheaper then buying a new one, if that fails then get a new one.
 

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