New starters for Flatheads

I was looking at a starter from Napa but ended up going the rebuild route because it was cheaper. I paid $100 to get mine rebuilt and it works great and I'm running 12 volts on it.
 
The later type bendix can have interference on some of the 8BA installations. I still prefer the old style whirly gig type Bendix. The modern ones have a one way clutch that works OK as long as the manufacturer uses quality steel in their construction. If it has questionable lineage from the third word, I'd avoid it altogether.
 
The new ones work good but have a "different" sound. I would chose getting an original rebuilt. Plus these little starter and generator rebuilding shops are disappearing so I try to support them with my business.
 
I'm with Brendan....I just love the sound of my flatty crankin on 6volts
Almost... as much as the sound of duel pipes on the flatty
Randy
 
The thing that I like better than the sound of a flathead cranking is the sound of a flathead starting and running.
 
Have your original rebuilt by an old guy at a local reputable shop. Tell the old guy you want "high torque coils". If he's been around, he will build you one that cranks faster.
 
Not if powermaster sells a 6v, they might. I have a 12v powermaster... they have the orginial style where the gear pulls in towards the starter (bendix)and the style where it throws the gear out (modern). I have the latter and it works great... Looks pretty good too, doesn't really stand out.
 
Jeff, I tried a new one from Mac's with the bendix on my '53 stick shift and an 8BA and it wouldn't clear the housing. It looked and felt "cheap" and was made in India which I sent back. I had my original rebuilt and I am glad I did. Looks and sounds great especially with 2/0 cables. Mac's quickly refunded my money.
Don
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
I am deciding between having the original rebuilt, or buying a new one. Thanks.
Click to expand...
This is THE guy!

Vern Davidson

Vern's Ford Flathead Shop
3478-1/2 F Rd
Clifton
Colorado 81520

970-434-8989

flatheadvern@fordflathead.com

http://www.FordFlathead.com

I sent him the 6-volt starter from my '53 Victoria, and he converted it for use on 12 volts. This included changing the internal field coils so the engagement isn't as violent as it would have been.

He's a helluva guy, too.
 
During our Barner's Maine Tour this past August the only breakdown we had was with one of those new style starter mechanisms. An internal retaining ring popped out of it's groove causing the failure. We managed to get it back together and it seemed to work ok for the remainder of the tour but I felt if it happened once it will fail again and probably at the worse time possible. Personally, I would stay with the old style Bendix type starter drive for 6 or 12 volts. JMO
 
I think the new style drive would be OK if it was USA made, after all, they used that type all through the 60's and 70's. But, these are probably offshore drives??
 
Been reading this post. We stock the imported starter. With the fit issues on the larger diameter barrel type drive, we decided to make them available with the original Ford-Bendix type drive instead. We can't buy them w/o the barrel drive, so we have to remove that and replace it with a USA made bendix type drive. We also replace the woodruf key for the drive. The starters work well and this puts the original type drive in place with no fit-up problems. Something to keep in mind....

starterwusabendix[1].jpg
 
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I put in the PowerMaster style (12v) after hanging my original while out shopping, twice in a week. I haven't had to do a thing to the powermaster in 9 years, which is exactly what I wanted. I have better things to do than worry about the starter. No one has mentioned, some re-wiring is needed because it has the solenoid on the starter, like a Chevy.
 
Found a "Y" block starter, took the windings out and installed in my flathead starter. Bolt in. Been working perfect for 25 years.
 
does anyone know where you can buy the stud for the battery cable on a flathead starter? it has a slot on the inside end where the field wires attach.
 
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