JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Bob Drake has them in his big 2012 catalog. Not sure they have the slot you are talking about though.
New starters for Flatheads
- Thread starter Jeff/Illinois
- Start date
Bob Drake has them in his big 2012 catalog. Not sure they have the slot you are talking about though.
joe plumber
Well-known member
I have a rebuilt 49-53 rebuilt starter that I will give to anyone ,just pay shipping cost .I had it in my 55 F-100 that I put a flathead in with a c-4 ****** .Had to change starters .P M if you want it .
Cecil/WV
Well-known member
I think I have some new starter studs. I'll try to remember to look tomorrow.
PeterC
Well-known member
Vern Davidson - still in business??
his number is disconnected as per ATT today - website not working either - Anyone been in touch with Vern lately?
------
his number is disconnected as per ATT today - website not working either - Anyone been in touch with Vern lately?
------
Charlie ny
BANNED
Kevin,
I have some genuine NOS Ford copper studs. You'll need a big soldering iron
to get things hot enough quick enough if you attempt to replace the stud while
the fields remain in the case. For me it's easier to remove the field coils and
solder things up on the bench.
Charlie ny
cas5845@yahoo.com
I have some genuine NOS Ford copper studs. You'll need a big soldering iron
to get things hot enough quick enough if you attempt to replace the stud while
the fields remain in the case. For me it's easier to remove the field coils and
solder things up on the bench.
Charlie ny
cas5845@yahoo.com
Bassman/NZ
Well-known member
Guys who run 12v into their original 6v starters are at risk of premature wear of the ring-gear teeth and/or bendix spring breakage from the "slamming" action. It wont happen overnight, maybe not for a couple of years or so, but it will happen eventually. Having the starter rebuilt with 12v coils is definitely the better option.
I have one of the new 12v starters as in Mac VanPelts picture, but with the solid setup they normally come with. It is quite tricky to manouver into place, but once it's in it works just fine. You just have to winkle it in and find the sweet spot where it just slides right on in.
I have one of the new 12v starters as in Mac VanPelts picture, but with the solid setup they normally come with. It is quite tricky to manouver into place, but once it's in it works just fine. You just have to winkle it in and find the sweet spot where it just slides right on in.
Ronnie
Well-known member
[FONT="]BUILDING A 12-VOLT STARTER
For flatheads , here is how to build a 12-volt starter.
Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.
Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.
You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself.[/FONT]
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]R
[/FONT]
For flatheads , here is how to build a 12-volt starter.
Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.
Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.
You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself.[/FONT]
[FONT="]
[/FONT]
[FONT="]R
[/FONT]
V8 Bob
Well-known member
Re: Vern Davidson - still in business??
Vern closed up shop last year. He was really nice to work with, and did a beautiful job rebuilding starters. His knowledge, expertise and personality will be greatly missed.
Vern closed up shop last year. He was really nice to work with, and did a beautiful job rebuilding starters. His knowledge, expertise and personality will be greatly missed.
Ed Pitts
Well-known member
[FONT="]"Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.[/FONT]
[FONT="]Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.[/FONT]
[FONT="]You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."[/FONT]
This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Rileys to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxie; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed
[FONT="] [/FONT]
[FONT="]Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.[/FONT]
[FONT="]You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."[/FONT]
This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Rileys to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxie; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed
[FONT="] [/FONT]
OLD...BILL
Well-known member
Dam sorry Vern's on longer doing starters ?? I sure hope he's taken up pro. girl watching.
He helped me with chrome on my starter, I was going to chrome the old field bolts, he told me no, the chrome will pop right off when he torques em tight, he will chrome some special crowned bolts, yes it cost more, but it looks great, so Ill think about Vern when I push the start button ....thanks Vern... wherever you are......OLD.....BILL
He helped me with chrome on my starter, I was going to chrome the old field bolts, he told me no, the chrome will pop right off when he torques em tight, he will chrome some special crowned bolts, yes it cost more, but it looks great, so Ill think about Vern when I push the start button ....thanks Vern... wherever you are......OLD.....BILL
PeterC
Well-known member
Re: Vern Davidson - still in business??
This is what I needed to know - thanks for the confirmation - sorry to learn Vern exited the business and hope he is healthy and well. Wonder if there is someone out there that does as nice a job as Vern did.
This is what I needed to know - thanks for the confirmation - sorry to learn Vern exited the business and hope he is healthy and well. Wonder if there is someone out there that does as nice a job as Vern did.
Roger/Sacramento
Senior Member
How do you know whom to trust for good work. I recently had Sammy redo my starter (he was recommended by NAPA). Installed it and on the third fire up it just spun with a whirl. Took it out and one of the bolts that holds the bendix spring was missing. It had to be in the bell housing somewhere. Took the T-5 transmission out with a five hour effort. Not an easy job on my pickup. Found the bolt and keeper n the bell housing. Took it to Sammy. He said it has never happened to him before. Yea right you creep. I asked him how that happened. Well, I know how. The bolt was too short and forced out. It had stripped threads and it was obvious. He redid with a longer bolt. I asked him if I can expect some financial return for my effort since it was his mistake. He said no, but the next time we can work something out. There will be no next time with you, Sammy.
Hey guys I have a 8ba with a little work done to it but nothing crazy, I fitted a brand new powermaster performance vintage torque starter motor about a year and a half ago when I first built the motor. only stared it a couple of times and it all seamed fine. Just tonight I went to start the engine and it started fine about twice than I heard a loud crack and the starter is free spinning. I striped it down to fine all the plenatery gears broken. Has anyone had the same problem?
Cecil/WV
Well-known member
I have tried 3 of the "new" starters that I bought from Joblot while they were still in business. The first one was defective from the beginning and they replaced it. The second one is working OK and the third one was on my '40 pickup and worked fine when cold, but wouldn't work when hot, just acted like an almost dead battery.