New member, saying hello...

[TRP]

Hello Ford Barn members,

I recently joined the site and figured I would say hello. My name is Ted. I live in California (in the San Francisco / San Jose bay area.) I've been a car guy since I was 16. I've spent most of my wrenching hours under aircooed VWs. My most recent project is a 1957 Speedster replica. I rebuilt all of the mechanicals from front to back.

I joined because I have an interest in Model A Fords. I have a unique opportunity to pick up a 1929 Tudor garage find. Was a daily driver in the 70s. Hasnt moved in 40 years. Trying to understand what Im getting into before I pull the car out of its barn.

Thank you,
Ted

 

[Domino]

Wow - "capita dia", seize the day, on the barn find If its priced right. You can always sell them but finding deals not so much. Folks here and on "ahooga" will be glad to assityiou.

 

[TRP]

Hello Domino,

I'm working with the owner on the price. If it were closer to my home it would be easier to set the price and drag 'er home. The family has absolutely no interest in the car. They just want it out of their barn to clean up the properly. I want to offer a fair price but have no idea what to offer. The prices for non running cars seem to be all over the place. It seems like the more surface rust the higher the price.

This car looks to be original (dark blue & black) or possibly an older garage restoration. I don't see any indication of a lighter blue color around the windows or any pinstripes. The firewall is a lighter color than the rest of the car. From what I can tell from the photos, its missing some odds and ends (door handle, mirrors, right rear bumper, a few hubcaps, tail light). Partially taken apart dash pod & ignition system (possibly troubleshooting a points / ignition issue before the owner gave up?) From the photos - the only noticeable damage to the body is a slight kink in the right rear fender, some light bubbling of the paint under the radiator, and some flaking paint/surface rust to the right of the rear window along that body seam in the back.

To get it out of the barn and up on a trailer is going to require some effort. It's kind of packed in with 40 years of family treasures around it. 4 flat tires. Who knows if the brakes / hubs are frozen. It comes with an extra motor, trans, pedal assembly so I'll need to bring a cherry picker I suppose.

Is there a suggested list of tools to bring when dragging an old A Model out of a barn?

Floor jack
Portable air compressor
Cherry Picker
4 new tubes?

I would rent a flat bed trailer and pull it home 600 miles on the trailer.

Anyway - I'm considering the opportunity... I just want to know what I'm getting into before I burn an entire weekend getting this thing home from halfway across the state.

Thanks for any advice you may have to offer.

Ted

 

[mhsprecher]

There are others who are better able to comment, but from the sounds of it, go low. Good running examples go for around $10k often, so I would guess half that for this one, with unknown motor condition, disassembled dash, etc. the condition of the body and interior would be key. Photos help assess, too. Tudors are the most common body style, which affects price, too.

Model A's are a Tom of fun, so I doubt you will regret it.

 

[TRP]

Hello Preacher,

I thought about posting photos but I was afraid someone would recognize the car and swoop in and grab it out from under me. As unlikely as that seems, if that happens, I guess it wasn't meant for me to own this car.

I am waiting to hear back if the owner has any paperwork on the car. I found a thread this sort of thing here on the site. I will be reviewing that now.

Please see images below.

 

[Kevin in NJ]

Value is an interesting animal.

First off it is a common tudor. You can find them 'restored' for $8000 to $15000. By restored they would have nice paint, interior. Mechanicals are always questionable unless there is good documentation that the parts were done properly.

Most people treat the A as some simple car and sort of throw them together. Because of the way the A was engineered by Ford it was capable of still getting around when substantially worn. This is why many will tell you the A was just a 45 MPH car.

What you need to understand is the A was a precision built car. If you show the factory engine prints to a rebuilder they will tell you you are building a race car engine.

When properly rebuilt the A had no problem going 60 MPH, all day long.

What you have there is a car that would likely run and move. Just add battery and some fluids. Brakes might be questionable (odds are real good) and might be fine under 40.

To make the car a driving car you would expect to spend around $8000 on the engine and ******. Throw in another $1000 on brakes and $1000 on springs and shocks. These are kind of mid range prices. So you are in close to $10k to fix up the car. Its final value is only going to be something maybe around 12k when done. So how much are you willing to pay?

It is a MUCH better value finding a car that has been done for $15k. They are out there if you look around.

Assuming the body is not some fixed over rusty POS, I am guessing the car would sell in the $3000 to $8000 on the current market (region of the country make a big difference on price).

It is your wallet, you can pay what you want. I would do some research, if you don't got lots of cash then your better value might be elsewhere.

 

[JOHN CT]

I see the crank is there. Did you try to spin the engine over? To see if it's stuck.
My opinion a barn find model a is worth 3-4 grand
Welcome to the model a word!

 

[Big hammer]

Hello welcome to the ford barn! Tires and tubes about 1k, motor about 5k, interior 4k now we are at the 10k running car! I would offer 2k and only go up to 2.5k To your list I would add come along's, rags and hand cleaners. The hand crank under the radiator can be removed and used on the wheel lug nuts. Good luck with your negotiating with their family's heirloom, that can be really tuff.

 

[fordwife]

My experience has been that these old A's hibernate very well if they and stored inside and kept dry. The biggest problem is that if if it was stored with gas in it the whole fuel system, gas tank to carburetor, will probably have to be cleaned out, and check engine, trans,and rear axle for possible water acumilation.

 

[TRP]

Hello Gang!

Kevin - Great info! Thank you. I completely understand about being upside down on a car when you're 'done'. I am just looking for a new project to tinker with. I'm not looking for something to just get and drive.

From my understanding this car is someplace between 'needs complete restoration' and just short of a 'parts car'. If this is a $3000.00 car in it's current state then I need to do some more soul searching. I was thinking 2k max. I don't want to pay more than it's worth but I also don't want to take advantage of the family.

Thank you for the info!
Ted

 

[JDupuis]

Welcome to the barn Ted.

 

[1955cj5]

If you want a project it looks like a great candidate! You will learn plenty...

Check both engine numbers to see if either matches the title. Number is stamped on the flat area above the water inlet. The inlet is the water elbow on the left side in front of the starter..

If it's titled in CA you may not need a vin inspection. I think it's really a serial number, not a modern vin for sure...

The vin is stamped on the Top of the frame about 6" behind the front body mounting bolt on the drivers side....under the body.....so if you need an inspection it can be done without completely removing the body but it is still a project..

My pickup needed everything, and still needs a few things. But it was and is a great learning experience and lots of advice/knowledge here on the Barn...

 

[1955cj5]

And for what it's worth I used a U-Haul carhauler trailer to bring mine home. They are heavy but tow and track really well. The Model A fits fine but take some extra tie-downs as the U-haul front wheel straps fit well enough but still looked like they needed a little backup..

I also wrapped the cab (pickup) and headlights with plastic shipping wrap to protect the glass...headlights too...

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

I can't see if it needs a top, but I can see it needs an interior. I wouldn't try to start the engine until you get it home and oil down the cylinders. You could try the hand crank to see if it's stuck, but don't force it, just let it soak with oil. It looks like it could clean up to be a good driver as is. Hopefully the tires will hold air long enough to get it on the trailer.


With the spare engine, etc. I'd say you will be paying between $2500 and $3500. If they want more than that, then I'd have to hear the engine run and check out the ****** and rear end.

 

[TRP]

Thank you all for the information. I will be coordinating with the son to fly out and have a look at the car. If I like what I see I will give him a deposit and figure out how to bring 'er home.

Thanks again,
Ted

 

[captndan]

Thank you all for the information. I will be coordinating with the son to fly out and have a look at the car. If I like what I see I will give him a deposit and figure out how to bring 'er home.

Thanks again,
Ted

Now you're on the right track. Don't worry about all the other stuff right now. Take cash. If you like it buy it and look no further. A trailer and a winch, even just a come-along, and some tie down straps is all you need. Get her home then start asking the thousands of questions. Answers are here.

 

[Mike V. Florida]

Welcome!

 

[dean from bozeman]

Ted,

1. The condition of the sheet metal is all important in determining a price and the possibilities of a barn find (or any Model A). A body with little or no rust is a big plus. Straight fenders without bead (the outer edge) problems is also a big plus. If it is well rusted or held together with bondo, walk away.

2. The "extra" engine could be the one that is original to this car. See 1955cj5's comments above. That would mean that it needed work and was replaced. The one in the car could be original and that could mean that it was going to be replaced. Both could be "just" A engines and have no history with the car. A car's value is increased if it has the original engine.

3. Take 20 $100 bills and fan them out on the table. When people see money they can be more prone to say yes. (Bought a '34 Plymouth years ago with this technique. They wanted $400 but when they saw 3 $100's they jumped.) Once they grab the money get the car onto the nearest road. Put orange cones in front and back and get a trailer. Heard that it is officially yours once it is off the previous owner's property (Comments from other Fordbarners about this, please. Please correct me if I am wrong).

4. Don't be scared away by the estimates above. You could get the car home, make it roadworthy and just have fun. Then you could have fun with your kids, grandkids and/or your spouse. You could spend money and have a car that could take you on tours to destinations unknown. Whatever you do...have fun. Enjoy the car. Let others enjoy it with you. Be safe.

Happy Trails!
Dean

 

[Tom Wesenberg]

BTW, be sure to remove the hand crank so it doesn't fall out on the road somewhere.

Same goes for any other loose parts that might fall off.

 

[Mitch//pa]

2k, 3k,4K just buy the thing,,no brainer... u can always get ur money back plus, if you decide not to keep it..
And welcome to the forum